Walking the Streets of Panajachel, Guatemala
I was asked if Guatemala is safe by another traveler while hanging out in a hostel in Argentina. And let’s be honest, Guatemala is much less developed than Argentina, so it’s a legitimate question. It’s not the first time we have been asked about traveling in Guatemala, although the questions did usually come up when we were in South America. You don’t get asked such a question in Central America, mostly because all those countries are relatively the same in terms of safety and infrastructure less Costa Rica.
Safe is an Opinion
This is a very difficult question to answer, not because I think Guatemala is unsafe, but rather because the answer is an opinion. When speaking about travel safety, you want to hear facts or concrete evidence to squabble your fears. The only evidence I have is that Aracely and I traveled most of Guatemala for over a month and were never knowingly in danger. I am not asking you to make a judgement on the safety of traveling in Guatemala based on our experience alone, however all I can share is our experience.
Walking the Streets of Antigua, Guatemala
Guatemala was the first country we visited on this backpacking journey and the most underdeveloped country I had ever been to. I should clarify by saying, I have never really traveled much beyond the United States, Spain and Germany. I was nervous. We were carrying a few thousand dollars worth of equipment and I not only had to worry about myself, but I felt responsible for Aracely’s safety too.
Outside a Restaurant in Flores, Guatemala near Tikal National Park
Guatemala City
We had heard prior to visiting Guatemala that Guatemala City was very dangerous. Specifically, bus robberies and bus jackings were common by gangs. We made no plans to visit the city. When we arrived there by plane, we hopped on a shuttle bus to Antigua, “Gringo Town.”
While staying in Antigua, we did meet travelers that visited Guatemala City during the day for some sightseeing. They described it as any other major city, and had no bad experiences. We also were there when our hostel maid received a phone call that her sister was just hit and mugged while picking up her paycheck in the city. It’s all about experiences and what you may have heard. We decided to go bowling in the city one night. A bunch of us rented a private shuttle bus and all went well.
Antigua
Antigua is the backpacking mecca of Guatemala. All the amenities you are used to exist here including WiFi, bars, dance clubs, laundry facilities, cafes, fast food chains, restaurants and major banks. If you can’t find something ask another traveler or the Tourist Police. I think Antigua is the perfect place to get your feet wet as a backpacker.
Chicken Buses of Antigua, Guatemala
Transportation
Antigua is usually the base camp for visiting other nearby attractions such as Lake Atitlan, Xela, Monterrico Beach, Semuc Champey or even Tikal. Tourists usually take shuttle buses around the country, but Chicken Buses (old American school buses) are available for the more daring. More daring in the sense that you really need to speak Spanish, be willing to travel slower and hope that you can figure out how to get from one destination to the other. The shuttle buses will take you directly to your destination, but it will be cramped.
Backpacks Stored in the Back of the Bus
Volcanoes
There are many volcanoes to climb in Guatemala and some have had a history of bandit attacks. Bandits are looking to rob you and possibly harm you. It’s very easy to avoid such treks. Just listen to the advice from tour agencies and hike volcanoes that are national parks. The tour agencies are always trying to request the government convert more volcanoes into national parks, but it’s a slow process. Once a national park, rangers patrol the area for your safety.
- Tikal National Park Video Tour
- Climbing Volcano San Pedro Video Tour
- Active Volcano Pacaya Video Tour
- Monterrico Beach Guatemala Video Tour
Armed Guards
It may take some time getting used to seeing armed guards patrol everything from gas stations to jewelry stores. These aren’t your everyday mall cops, these guys all carry shotguns. It’s a bit intimidating, however that is what they are going for.
People
The people of Guatemala are kind, the country is explored by few and the adventures are endless. You won’t find roped walkways and concrete steps on your hike to Semuc Champey. You will find yourself saying, “This wouldn’t be legal in my country.” But, this is what makes it so exciting.
Streets of Panajachel, Guatemala at Lake Atitlan
Be Smart Stay Safe
This article isn’t intended to persuade you to avoid Guatemala City, chicken buses or volcanoes that aren’t national parks. We are just suggesting alternatives if you want to play it safe. However, the best way to be safe is to be smart. Don’t carry things in pockets that can be easily pick pocketed. Try to make friends and travel in groups. Always be aware of your surroundings. These are things that Aracely and I do in every country we visit.
I think Guatemala is special. I know this because every time Aracely and I are asked about it, we light up and explain how much fun we had while traveling there.
Hey, you guys! I love your website! I was just checking some entry requirements for the countries in Central America and had a question I think you might be able to answer. Some countries (Costa Rica, Belize) require and onward/return ticket to enter. This assumes you’ll be traveling by air. What’s the story with overland travel? Hope you can help! I’ll be hitting the road in the USA (for starters) in less than a month if jury duty (AARRRGGHH!!) doesn’t hold me up. Keep on ramblin’. And thank Aracely for me for the helpful info on hiking! Happy trails!
Hey Brendan! You won’t have to worry about any onward or return tickets when crossing the border by land. We never had to show anything other than our passport. Jury duty, that stinks.
Hi Jason, we crossed into Costa Rica from Panama a few days ago by land at the Sixaola border crossing. They made a fuss and wanted to see plane tickets out of the country. It always depends who you get. There was a girl next to us who apparently got in without that. Our “woman” was more difficult. We were able to get through with a plane ticket that we have for April from Mexico to Boston, which we had to print out at the nearest pharmacy for $3. At no other land border crossing was that the case, and we’ve traveled all the way from Argentina to Central America (mostly by land), even flying into Panama City from Ecuador one-way was no problem at all. Your website is wonderful! Keep up the good work.
Thanks Eva for using us as a resource. I guess you never really know when you are going to have a border problem, but for the most part, I think it’s fairly smooth, as you have experienced. Although sometimes sketchy, crossing a land border is a unique experience.
I couldn’t agree more with this post-Guatemala is also where I got my feet wet with backpacking, and Antigua is where it all began. We visited most of the countries in Central America on that trip, and Guatemala was by far, my favorite. It just felt like home after awhile. We never felt unsafe-we still talk to this day how anything bad that happened to us on our three month trek, happened in Costa Rica at the very end of our jaunt. That’s when the **** really hit the fan! But that’s for another blog comment….:)
Guatemala is rugged, and it is beautiful.
it’s hard to give an all-encompassing answer like that , no matter where you visit because everyone’s experience is individual and unique.I’ve heard some horror stories about places that I’ve never had problems in.
Enlightening post, thanks for this one! I’m researching the region and considering my travel options.
Hello, i was just checking the WEB, and i love to read the stories you guys have written on your blogs. I am Guatemalan and love to travel around the world. I have many friends all over the world whose have been visiting my country and they all loved it. And even better nothing danger has happened to them. I do belive it is dangerous sometimes when talking about buses and walking alone on a bad neighborhood. But tourist are usully safe… Congratulations for the Website. And Yes Pacaya Volcano is erupting now. You should try Acatenango Volcano in your next visit, It is the most beautiful view. (its 3800 meters over the sea level and you can see Fuego’s volcano Lava which is only a few KM distance).
I think you’ve pretty much hit the nail on the head with your answer – it depends on your specific experiences in the country. You’ll never find a place that everyone agrees is 100% safe. Our travels took us extensively through the middle east much to the surprise and horror of our friends and family. Our experiences were the exact opposite of their expectations, however. We were met with warmth, friendliness, and gifts everywhere we went. I’m sure that someone somewhere has had a problem, but there is crime in my home town as well.
Looking forward to more of your stories!
Not only is this true for Guatemala, but just about any country you plan on visiting. Even here in the US there are still plenty of areas that travelers should avoid visiting if safety is a concern.
Staying safe while traveling is just a summation of common sense, experience, and a smidgen of luck. =)
Well said.
Hey there – my wife and I are leaving for our RTW spring 2011 from Canada, and yes, first stop will indeed by Guatemala!!!!! We are going to be taking a homestay Spanish course at Lake Atitlan, and couldn’t be more thrilled!!! You seem to have a lot of great info on CA, so we will definately be using this blog to help with ideas and inspiration…Cheers!
Skott and Shawna
We really enjoyed touring Central America and Guatemala was definitely one of our favorites. It’s the best place to learn language as well, since it’s so incredibly cheap. Just don’t go swimming in Lake Atitlan!
I’ve been to Guatemala twice and would have to say that it can be quite safe–if you take some basic precautions. When I went, I had my money in a money belt and didn’t flaunt a fancy camera, etc.
I wouldn’t say it’s dangerous or a country to avoid, but more a destination where you need to be smart and somewhat vigilant. (To be honest, though, I must say that I did feel a little safer in other countries, including some in the Middle East.)
I think Guatemala is a wonderful country to visit that is not to be missed. If you love Spanish, indigenous cultures and warm, friendly people, it’s one of the best places to go. I’d go back in a minute!
We would go back in a minute too. It’s one of our favorite small countries with so much to do. And what a great way to start a backpacking trip. Thanks for sharing your comments with us Lisa.
Shannon and I went to Guate while looking for fair trade clothing options. We felt really safe in all the backpacker places, as you all did, but for SURE Guate CIty was a nightmare! I stayed with a very wealthy family, and we had armed guards and barbed wire all around…
But Guatemala is absolutely beautiful! Every place is beautiful. You just gotta be smart.
The most important thing you said is that, “you just gotta be smart.” That plays such a big role in traveling to unfamiliar places. We had heard many bad things about Guatemala City and were careful when visiting, but didn’t spend much time there.
Great viewpoint & sound advice. As you point out there are basics you should follow for any country you’re in.
I’m traveling to Antigua at the end of June for one month. I will first be arriving in Guat. City and will be at the airport for at least 7 hours until I take an overnight coach to Tikal for three days. Then I’ll return to G. City and on to Antigua. Should I have anything to worry about traveling alone? I’m a 30 year old woman who speaks decent enough Spanish.
I wouldn’t worry Sarah. The airport is fine. The chaos starts when you exit the airport trying to get a ride from the 50 or so taxi drivers that swarm you offering their services. But, if you have already booked a trip on, what sounds like a full size tour bus, you should be absolutely fine. Not sure where you plan to stay near Tikal, but if it’s Flores, it’s beautiful. On Tour Buses, you won’t need to worry about speaking Spanish. Spanish will only be necessary if you plan on using local, non tourist, transportation. Have a great time!
I heard the same things about Guatemala City that you did, and we took the same sort of precautions, mostly “getting the hell out of there.” by contrast, other than getting stiffed by the taxi driver on the way in to Antigua, I felt as safe there as any place in Central America. We stayed for a week in Xela, and I loved that place as well, though I heard mumblings it wasn’t that safe either.
But that might have been mumblings about the water quality…
I felt the same way Drew. We continue to hear bad things about Guatemala City today. We never visited Xela, but hear many great things about it. Also a popular place to take Spanish lessons.
The more I read about your experiences in Guatemala, the more I realize that it is very similar to some of the provinces in the Philippines. Safety is also a concern for most people who want to visit the Philippines. But I agree with you, it’s really a matter of opinion. And unless one lacks street smarts, traveling to countries like Guatemala isn’t really dangerous.
It sounds like the Philippines is very similar Rain.
Hi Jason and Aracely; my wife and I spent 10 days in Guatemala in 2007 and did feel safe. We weren’t backpacking per se (independent travel that we had organized, not a tour), but we also traveled in low-key fashion (light, not splashy luggage or clothing/jewelry), and utilized money belts and other safety precautions. I did travel with a good camera but always tried to be smart about when it was out and I was using it. I really think that’s the key- making sure not to put yourself out there as an obvious “target.” We LOVED the country and everyone we met was super friendly and helpful, both the Guatemalans and all the US expats and travelers from around the world. Having been to five countries in Latin America now, Guate was I think my favorite for the combination of natural beauty (Lake Atitlan in particular), fascinating (and at times tragic) history, and the still living Mayan culture that you can experience in the highlands. Highly recommended!
And we feel the same way after spending 7 weeks there. It’s a great country to explore.
We have traveled all over Guatemala in our own vehicle for the past 4 months and we ahve not entountered any issues. Yes, there are problems, as there are in many places, but with a bit of common sense or terribly bad luck it is not an issue. In fact Guatemala has one of the best and innovative tourist programs we have ever seen. Asistour is a division of INGUAT (the national tourism ministry) and its soul purpose is to help tourists with any issues… from information to being ripped off or having hassles with anything. Just diaql 1500 (free) from any phone and an english speaking operator will help you, even if that means sending the regional Aistour rep there to give you a hand. It’s quite amazing.
We feel similar in that all countries can be dangerous, you just have to be smart. Even in NYC we are always conscious of the equipment we are flashing around. And in each city there are safe places and not so safe places, and we should recognize that. It’s a lot of common sense and luck.
Last week my good friend (who is Guatamalan) had his cousin brutally murdered by police last week outside of Guatamala city. I’ve not been but I have the impression that Guatamala is probably a terribly unsafe place to be- if you are Guatamalan.
As a traveler, I am really excited about visiting Guatamala and the rest of Central America and I think it’s possible to do so safely as long as you are aware of your surroundings and careful about your safety.
Stephanie, so sorry to hear about your friend’s cousin. We also had a bad story with a local getting beaten and robbed after picking up their paycheck in the city. I would still go back as a traveler. I enjoyed Guatemala a lot and found it not different than many of the other Central American countries I visited in terms of safety. Thanks for your comments.
Love the post. My GF and I are going backpacking to Guatemala for 2 weeks in the end of March and it is our first time backpacking. I am very excited but nervous, I know that going to another country you have to be open minded and have respect for the people and their culture. I fly into Guatemala City on a Saturday but plan to do the same as everyone else, and get out of there asap. My question is what is the best way to get around Guatemala? Is it possible to take a bus from Guatemala City to Tikal or do we have to fly? If we can how long is the bus ride and about how much does it cost? What are good places to visit for two weeks and what are some hostels we can stay at? Any advice you have will help. I know it is a lot but I hope you can help. Thank you all.