Alastair Humphreys, a 2012 National Geographic’s Adventurer, shares his ocean rowing journey across the Atlantic.

Rowing 3,000 nautical miles across the Atlantic Ocean is a difficult thing to do. Sea sickness, sleep deprivation, lack of privacy, storms, a leak or two and the gnawing feeling of being far, far from land in a very small boat… Despite the difficulties, however, this was one of the best adventures of my life.

Here are some photos to try to share the experience.

Laughter

The single most important thing on any expedition is laughter. The Atlantic Ocean rang out with the sound of four boys laughing loudly every day.

Solitude

My favourite time was rowing into the dawn. To be on a tiny boat, just 8 metres long, with just three friends and nothing around us for up to 1500 miles in every direction, was a special feeling.

How far could I dare myself to swim from the boat one thousand miles from land and 4,000 metres above the ocean floor…?

Nature

We saw dolphins, whales, birds, marlin, jellyfish and much more. My favourites, however, were the flying fish who bombarded our boat each night!

Delicious fresh fish to supplement our diet!

Friendship

Early evening, calm seas and not a care in the world – these are the good times.

Communication

Much as I savoured the extraordinary isolation, it was also very rewarding to be able to share our story with the outside world. We blogged daily and phoned schools across the world.

As a keen writer and blogger, I made sure to write a regular diary at sea. It was not easy as we rocked and rolled in the tiny little cabin.

Perspective

Before the journey I was busy, stressed, fretting about all sorts of things. And then I was out at sea and could do nothing about all those things back home. The funny thing is, however, that they didn’t really seem that important anymore.

Sunset

Simple, happy times far from the real world.

Night Time

The nights were difficult. Sleep deprivation made it hard to stay awake. Large waves were more frightening when you could not see them coming. And rainstorms lashed us most nights as we approached the Caribbean. The rewards, however, were wonderful shooting stars, bright moonlight and an awesome sense of isolation.

Terrible photo; magical experience

Weather

Unfortunately I was a bit busy during the storms to take photographs, but we spent a lot of time rowing through fierce rainstorms. As a pale Brit, I personally preferred the rain to the midday sun!

Food

Weeks and weeks away from the nearest store, we were stuck with the food we had on board. Much of it was disgusting, dehydrated food. Chocolate, however, tastes good wherever you are!

Here is what 60 days’ of food looks like for four hungry boys. Much of it was bought cheap on eBay. It tasted horrible!

Every 100 miles we were allowed one slice of salami and one olive to celebrate!

Looking Back

I would be lying if I said that rowing the ocean was a bundle of fun. But I am so proud and grateful to have done it.

Arriving in Barbados we moored our battered, smelly little boat alongside this super-yacht. They may have had more money, but I’d vouch that we had the sweeter memories.

I also think I enjoyed my first proper breakfast (sorry, make that FOUR breakfasts) a lot more than the millionaire on his super yacht.

There was not a lot of privacy on board. It was nice to have a private shower again!

And, at long last, the first beer on dry land. I don’t think it requires an explanation…

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Josh Aggars of flipflopscity.com shares his experience trying to surf the big waves of the Fiji Islands.

Flying into Fiji was a step into the unknown. After two months of surfing my way around New Zealand with my crew I was now heading out alone to confront waters that I had heard little about beyond the books. Usually I know of at least one friend who has surfed a given spot but on this occasion I was fresh out and feeling a little unnerved but excited at the prospect.

Arriving to Fiji to Surf

Peering out the window of the plane I would catch glimpses of small island chains beneath the occasional breaking cloud as we rocked and jolted our way through a heavy seasonal storm. Would the local lineups be welcoming? Would I manage to communicate my way to the best breaks? And would this bucket of rust make it through the next lightening flash? I gripped my seat belt ever tighter and waited to find out.

Am I in India?

After arriving into Nadi on the main island of Viti Levu I did the usually unthinkable for a semi-reserved Englishman and kissed the ground. Swiping the gravel and dust off my lips and chin I forsook to never fly again and made my way through passport control and out into Fiji real.

No sooner was I out on the curbside hailing a taxi than a rather unusual thought struck me, “Am I in India?” This wasn’t some kind of racial slur but an observation that I had yet to see what rugby World Cup coverage had always taught me Fijians would look like.

I’d been in India only months before and I was pretty much certain that I was in fact back via some strange Bermuda triangle like feedback loop. My poshest Queen and country inner monologue voice told me this was, “Odd, most odd indeed.”

Having hailed a cab and began my journey into town I dug out my dog eared copy of lonely planet to find an answer to my question. As it turns out a large number of Indians travelled over to Fiji during colonial times to work the sugar cane fields. At the end of direct rule from England all the workers were given the option to repatriate but the majority chose to stay. As I was to soon find out that choice was made fairly easy by this most beautiful of island states.

Where to Surf in Fiji

Having spent a night getting acclimatized in Nadi I was keen to get back in the water and so headed for Tavarua, home to two of the best known breaks in the country, Restaurants and Cloudbreak. Getting there was no easy matter. I had to pay an over the odds $65 for passage on a charter boat to gain access to the waves for the island itself is a private resort for which I didn’t have the means. In fact, the waves here had only just opened up to non-residents of the island after a government decree, so myself and the couple of Ozzies on my boat were feeling pretty good until we got there.

Surfing at Restaurants, Fiji

Upon arrival at Restaurants we were greeted by what I like to term, “a ruddy nightmare.” There was no swell, nada, zip. It was like the Gods had spotted where I was on the map, had a quick chat with the swell captain and laid the sea flat. “He had enough surf in New Zealand and he never thanked us for it so forget him,” they all muttered.

This was not good. A hamster couldn’t surf these waves in any contentment. We only had a few hours before the boat would head back so we turned our attentions to the epic Cloudbreak.

Surfing at Cloudbreak, Fiji

This reef break, whilst better, was not serving up the sets of lore I had been expecting. I can’t tell you how disappointing this was. To see pictures and read stories of the epic 30 foot waves in the book in my hands and then gaze tearfully at the half empty specter that greeted us was enough to make us question whether to throw el Capitan over the side given his sales pitch about today’s good swell back at the quay.

We got in the water and did the best we could pulling off some sweet snaps and floaters and enjoying what we had. The reef was pretty shallow so I was glad not to be trying this in waves of any real power, but still I couldn’t help but feel a bit cheated having travelled so far and being so meager of budget.

Nadi, Fiji

I returned to my backpacker’s hostel in downtown Nadi somewhat downbeat after my less than life changing experience and decided to go find some fun for the night. I met some fellow surfers over from the States on the porch of the hostel and we started compare stories. They had been out for the past few days and had a similar experience which lifted my spirits a little and we decided the only right thing to do would be to get some beers and sit on the beach.

Over a campfire, drinks and songs with some locals the surf was quickly forgotten and all attention turned to what an incredibly beautiful people and place this was. The harmonies the Fijian lads produced were hypnotic as were some of the guitar melodies. One of them, George, explained to me how he had left the family island a while back to work in the resorts and had to send money back to his brother who was compelled to stay by tradition on the family island being the eldest son.

To the Mamanuca Islands… Fast!

I decided to use the majority of my remaining budget to visit the Mamanuca Islands rather than risk more on the charter boat and so took the ferry out the next morning. Upon arrival I ventured into the local village with a couple of other backpackers and were welcomed with a Cava drinking ceremony and dance. That’s my kind of welcome!

Everyone was incredibly friendly and fun leaving me in no doubt I’d spent my money wisely with this expedition. We were shown around the village by the minister of the church who explained the subsistence lifestyle of the people. Most of the men were off fishing which seemed to be a pretty great way to spend a day in this environment.

Before leaving we were given a parting dance and more Cava. It was all so relaxing I almost felt like debunking and staying. Alas I had plans 1,000 miles away and a date I had to keep so made my excuses, more to myself than any of the locals (what did they care afterall?) and headed back to Nadi.

Two days later I was flying out and leaving behind two of the best waves I have yet to surf properly, a stunning island chain and incredibly warm and hospitable people. I can’t help but feel I’m meant to go back before long. Now, if only I could find more change down the back of this couch.

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The adrenaline was high and the scenery was incredible during our jet ski tour in Miami Beach, Florida. Biscayne Bay, Port of Miami and Fisher Island were our stops in this short Travel Video from Jason and Aracely of 2Backpackers.com. Enjoy the show!

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Monumento Natural Salar de Surire

Entering Northern Chile from Peru will most likely lead you to the coastal town of Arica.  Check out our article on discovering Arica to find out what adventure lies there, but for this article we are jumping right into Northern Chile’s great Altiplano!

Road Trip

Driving from Arica Chile to Putre on Day 1 of our 4x4 Road Trip

Northern Chile’s Altiplano is filled with varying landscapes including snow capped volcanoes, desert mountains, small adobe villages, salt flats, flamingos, vicuñas and pre-Inca ruins.  Arica will serve as your base camp for settling into the new country and planning your exploratory road trip.  Several vehicle rental companies exist in town with 4×4 vehicles.  Between the cost of your rental truck and all the gas you have to purchase, this adventure will definitely cost you additional money.

Route

Our Nissan 4x4 Rental Truck

The route you choose will also determine your fuel strategy.  There isn’t any places to fuel your vehicle beyond Putre, which is typically the first night’s location.  Some tours out of Arica take you to Parque Nacional Lauca to see Lago Chungara near the Bolivian border for a 12 hour round trip.  Another park, Reserva National Las Vicuñas, is south Parque Nacional Lauca and will require another day to visit.  At the southeastern most point of the Arica and Parinacota Region, you will find Monumento Natural Salar de Surire, a salt flat which lies furthest from Arica.  If you plan on visiting all three of these parks, you can possibly choose a loop route back to Arica.  The roads leading to Lago Chungara are good gravel roads, but beyond the lake it gets challenging.  If it’s been raining, your 4×4 might run into flooded dirt roads that are impassable.  If you are looking for a tremendous adventure, where you sometimes feel lost and wonder if you are going to make it out with enough gas and a running truck then drive the entire loop for 3 days.

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Cactus Candelario Tree

Day 1

Our drive began at Arica, Chile where we rented an older 4×4 Nissan pick-up truck.  We were both excited to have such an independent adventure and to drive a vehicle again.  Typically we ride on buses from town to town.  The drive west on highway Chile 11 was incredibly unique to us.  The views of dessert hills extended for miles inland as we climbed steeply into the high plateau.

The highway is very well marked and mostly used by large trucks transporting goods to and from the Chile-Bolivia border.  A road trip means you have to stop and explore along the way.  One stop was to take a picture and attempt to climb the Cactus Candelario, a tall cactus tree.  Another was at the tiny village of Socoroma.  During our visit the town was having a festival where we enjoyed watching the people, covered in flour, dancing and singing in the roads between houses.

Sunset in Putre, Chile from the Town

After 167 km we arrived to Putre (3,500 meters) our destination for the night at round 4 pm and found a tiny hostel to stay in.  Although, at $28 per night we found it incredibly expensive in comparison to the previous places we’ve stayed at outside of Chile.

Festival in the Town of Socoroma, Chile

If you begin to feel any altitude sickness, be sure to spend an extra day or two acclimating in Putre.  The altitude will only get higher.

You might also enjoy… Discover Adventure in San Pedro de Atacama Chile

Day 2

Driving to Putre from Arica

By 9 am the next morning we were on our way to Lauca National Park and Lake Chungara.  After driving for just under 45mins, we found wild vicuñas and guanacos (camelids) all around the hills.  Although we’ve been in South America for a few months we’ve yet to see these.  Llamas and Alpacas, which are both domesticated have been everywhere, so it was exciting to see these new animals in the wild.  After stopping for pictures we continued our drive.

Reserva Natural Las Vicunas

Next we took an hour break at the town of Parinacota (4,400 meters) to see an old white colonial church that represents the transformation of region in the area.  One and half hours later we arrived at our destination for the day, Lago Chungara (4,500 meters).  The clouds had moved in and the sky was completely white, but it was a beautiful landscape with the twin snow capped volcanoes of Payachatas reflecting in the steaming lake.  We spotted beautiful pink flamingos and tried taking pictures, but they didn’t seem to like us being around them much.  You will need a strong telephoto lens if you expect to get some good pictures.

Condor We Spotted Flying Overhead Near Putre, Chile

On our drive back to Putre Aracely spotted a large condor flying close to the highway and yelled for me to stop the car.  The great bird flew around the top of the hills so gracefully, scanning the landscape repeatedly with only a flap or two of its wings.

You might also enjoy… Discover Arica Chile

Day 3

Lago Chungara in Parque Nacional Lauca in Chile

This was by far our most exciting day of the road trip.  When we left our hostel in Putre that morning destined for the Salt Flats of Surire, we didn’t know exactly how we would return to Arica.  We had read in Lonely Planet and heard from locals that there was a dirt road from the Salt Flats directly towards Arica that we could take instead of backtracking all the way back to Arica via Putre.  However, this road floods often and we were advised to ask the park rangers for some advice.

During our drive towards the Salt Flats we encountered some rangers and they told us that we should be able to make the journey to the flats if we used the 4×4 and never hit the breaks through the flooded road portions.  Feeling confident after speaking with rangers, we continued on.

Driving Slowly Through Winding Cliff Roads in Chile

Either the rangers underestimated the bad conditions of the road or maybe overestimated the capability of our older 4×4 vehicle.  We arrived at our first flooded area.  I activated the 4×4 capability on the truck and went for it.  Half way through the 20 yard long pond of muddy water we felt the truck slowing down and getting stuck .  At this point we were 2 feet deep.  I revved the engine further and we made it past the second half safely.  It was a great relief.

Driving Through Flooded Roads of Altiplano

Just another few miles later we reached our second and hardest challenge.  I took one look at what was in front of us and thought to myself, “There is no way we are  making it through that, we have to go around.”  But, we couldn’t find an obvious exit from the road leading around the deep, long flooded road in front of us.  I decided to go for it.  I was feeling a bit nervous.  With the throttle to the floor we began to race through as quickly as possible.  Within 15ft of entering the road lake the water was splashing over the hood and the vehicle began to stall.  I quickly steered the vehicle off the road, up over the edge onto the muddy park grounds.  This was unfortunate, but there is no way we would have made it through the 50 yards of flooded roadway.

Flooded Areas in Northern Chile

This was the scariest moment of the trip.  After stopping the car on the higher ground, I realized it still wanted to stall.  I continued to keep my foot on the gas pedal in fear that if the truck stalled, we wouldn’t be able to start it again.  At this point, the severity of the moment began to set in.  I continued on the throttle until the truck finally began to move.  We cheered aloud in excitement.  The kind that would have looked really cheesy had someone been watching.  We were not out of this mess yet.  The area was still muddy and several small rivers had been created from the flooded roadway.  We sped alongside the road as fast as the truck would go bouncing around kicking up what seemed like bricks of mud from under the truck until we found a safe area to reenter the road.  After driving full throttle for 5 minutes the truck was back to good form, except for the extra 50 pounds of mud that caked our chassis.

Monumento Natural Salar de Surire

Flamingos Flying Over Lake Chungara in Northern Chile

Avoiding further flooded roads, we arrived to the Surire Salt Flats and were rewarded with wild scenery including salt lakes, flamingos, vicuñas and snow capped mountains in the distance.  After getting directions from other rangers hanging out at the nearby salt mine we decided to take the direct road from the Salar de Surire to Arica.  The most important advice given to us was, “Look for a sign that reads something Hotel and turn left there.  It’s a small sign and if you miss it, you will get lost.”  I wondered how small was this sign and how risky was the drive.  It would be the most remote off the road drive we have ever experienced.  We were 6 hours from a town that would have fuel for our vehicle.  Driving through the mountains and canyons of the altiplano became the coolest video baja driving game I have ever played.  This was real!

Our Beat Up 4x4 Rental Truck Facing Big Storms Ahead

The road led us down to a gravel river bed.  The water was never more than a foot deep and didn’t pose any threats, but the river bed was wide enough that we couldn’t see where to pick back up the road on the other side.  We slowly drove through, excited of the adventure, but questioning our map reading skills.

We climbed back out of the canyon up to the tops of the high plateaus where wind and endless flat mountain tops dominated the landscapes.  We were driving on top of the world.  A nasty looking storm quickly moved in and darkened the sky, creating fear of flash floods.  We only caught the edge of the storm so the rains weren’t too bad.  Had this storm began before we crossed the river bed, I would guess we wouldn’t have been able to cross it.  That’s a scary thought.  We found the aptly described small sign and turned left with a great sigh of relief.  We were headed back home, or at least back to Arica.

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Proposal

Our Engagement Photo in the Middle of Nowhere

This was also the road trip that would end with Aracely and I engaged.  I felt it was the furthest from civilization that we had ever been, and for us, who were escaping the day to day monotony of our modern busy lives, this seemed perfect.  Sister Golden Hair was playing on the radio, which in itself was peculiar out in this desolate area where only 1 or 2 stations were received.  I pulled off the road where a clear landmark might be remembered 10 years from now.  It was a giant rock on the side of the road.

Jason Proposed to Aracely Here!

We took some unsuspecting pictures and then I turned on the video camera and sat it on the hood.  I returned to the front of our beat up rental truck and knelt down on one knee and proposed.  Aracely said, “Yes.”  We hid a necklace under some rocks near the giant rock and mapped our GPS coordinates.  We will return someday in celebration.

Our weekend included 450 miles of some of the most unique scenery we have ever seen in a 3 day journey.

Endless Dirt Roads in Northern Chile's Altiplano

As we drove back down the sand mountains headed to the Arica coast we felt a sense of accomplishment and excitement.  This adventure wasn’t a physical challenge, but still one filled with fear, panic a sense of being lost and most of all, a sense of complete freedom.

The Desert Hills of Arica, Chile

For Budget Travelers

At $90 USD per day plus $100 for gas, renting a 4×4, believe it or not is the cheaper option.  A 3-day tour that includes a visit to the village of Putre, the National Park Lauca, Lake Chungara, and the Surire Salt flats costs about $300 per person with an organized tour.  When renting the vehicle consider renting from the local companies rather than the global brands that charge twice as much.  But, if you end up with a beat up, old, green Nissan, be worried, because we beat that truck to sh*t.

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NYC Marathon Runners on 1st Avenue

I attended my first NYC Marathon, while Aracely ran in her first NYC Marathon.   This was an amazing event to both participate in and be a spectator.  The race had over 45,000 starters, ranging from 18 years old to 87 years old.

NYC Marathon Course

The NYC Marathon is considered a difficult course, spanning the 5 boroughs of New York City.   The starting line is in Staten Island, and runners first cross the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge bridge to Brooklyn.  After running through the narrow streets of Brooklyn, they cross into Queens and then onto the Queensboro bridge landing on the Upper East Side of Manhattan.  Running north on 1st Avenue through Harlem, they enter the 5th borough, the Bronx.  The runners finish by returning south and running a half a loop around Central Park.  The 26.2 marathon distance is challenging in NYC because of the many turns, spanning bridges and crowded field of runners.

NYC Marathon Runners in Central Park

International Event

As a spectator of the NYC Marathon, I watched runners from all over the world.   Some of the most notable contingents were from France and Italy.  They were wearing the same shirts and could be easily identified.   It became a game identifying runners from different countries.

Entertainment

Not only was it interesting to see many countries represented, but it was fun to spot the off the wall costumes on some of the runners.  There were also some runners dribbling basketballs the entire race.

Guy Running in Full Orange Suit

Marathon Entrants

The wheelchair group passed by the spectators first, spinning at rapid speeds down the streets.  Next to pass were the professional women and followed by the professional men.  Each group was accompanied with large entourages of press and police vehicles.  The core group of women and men in 3 major waves made up the largest segment of runners, including handcycles.  It was non-stop cheering, cow bells, and vuvuzelas.  Celebrities are out running too, so keep your eyes open for the likes of Bobby Flay, Robin Quivers, Amani Toomer, Al Roker and Meredith Viera.

Runners Entering Central Park

All Marathon All Day

On this day the Marathon rules the city.  Driving around and even walking across town can be challenging.  We were able to see Aracely after she entered Manhattan on 1st Avenue at mile 18 and then again in Central Park at mile 24.  Getting over to Central Park involved us running across 1st Avenue and then trying to find a way to enter the park without running across the course again.  I imagine it’s a mess for New Yorkers going about their daily routines.  It’s a lot of time standing for the spectators, but we can’t complain much, considering there are others around us running 26 miles.

NYC Marathon Water Station in Central Park

Organization

The organization of the NYC Marathon is incredible. Each runner has their own number and a bar code on their bib for easy scanning. The marathon entrants are provided transportation, food and loudspeaker instructions for the start of the race. Plenty of water, bathroom and food stations are spread throughout the course. The process of checking and picking up your belongings is seamless. There is no reason to be afraid of the size and scope of the NYC Marathon.

Aracely normally runs under 4 hours, but she twisted her ankle at a crowded water station at mile 21.  For the last 5 miles she walk ran through the pain to finish just under 5 hours.  I tell her it’s reason to race it again.

Qualifying

What makes the New York City Marathon so special is that it’s very difficult to get in.  They do offer a lottery drawing, but after 2 attempts Aracely didn’t make it.  She entered the race by running in 9 qualifying races as determined by the NY Road Runners club.  Basically, it’s a lot of entrance fee money for the club.  You don’t have to run specific times, but you do need to run in all those races and volunteer in one.  The last 2 ways to become an entrant are through good qualifying times in other marathons or raising money for charity.

Cheering for Marathon Runners

Tips for the NYC Marathon

Wear clothes that you will donate

At the start of the race you will want to stay warm.  Runners will throw off their warm clothes after the race starts.  The clothes are all collected and donated.

Know where family & friends will be

Plan on a particular street block where your friends or family will be watching so you can spot them.  With so many runners, you might miss each other unless you are both aware of a planned area.  It’s a great motivation for the runners to see someone they know cheering them on.

NYC Marathon Runners Central Park

Wear your name on your shirt

This is a classic tradition for Marathons.  Spectators love to cheer you on by shouting your names.  Wear your name proud!

Represent your country

The NYC Marathon is an international gathering of people throughout the world.  Display your country proud and you will most certainly find supporters in the international crowd.   Aracely wore her Ecuador soccer shirt and was a hit through Brooklyn and Queens where she high-fived many Latin kids.

Aracely & Her NYC Marathon Medal

Cell phone in your checked bag

As a runner who plans to meet guests after the race, it helps if you can call them when you finish.   The post finish line of the NYC Marathon is a mile long.  Runners can spend up to an hour escaping Central Park.  Family and friends should remain patient and wait for the phone call from your runner.

Have warm clothes waiting for you

Remember, runners threw their warm clothes away at the beginning of the race.  Have your friends or family waiting with warm clothes in hand at the end of the race.

A marathon is a great way to discover a new city.  Many marathon runners see the world this way.  Start running!

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Backpacking Classmates

We were looking for a challenging outdoor adventure, but we knew we didn’t exactly have the experience to do it safely on our own.  Once we decided on our destination, the Grand Canyon, we began researching guided hikes and camping.

The Grand Canyon

The Grand Canyon is a World Heritage Site which encompasses 1,218,375 acres and lies on the Colorado Plateau in northwestern Arizona.  Our goal was to experience the Canyon to the fullest; that can only be done by hiking to the very bottom.

The Grand Canyon National Park offers a variety of choices to experience the inside of the Canyon; guided tours, mule trips, river trips, hiking and camping.  If you are interested in backpacking and camping on your own, you must acquire a backcountry permit.  The permits are very challenging to obtain due to the volume of requests, but the organizations conducting the guided hikes all have access to those permits.

Grand Canyon Field Institute

Our research led us to the Grand Canyon Field Institute, a program of the Grand Canyon Association (GCA), which focuses on educating park visitors about the cultural and natural history of the Grand Canyon.  The classes specialize in various topics such as cultural education, photography, wilderness, women, family classes and much more.  The term class is used to emphasize education, but this is unlike any class you have taken before.  There is a class for everyone; from beginner backpackers to experienced outdoor enthusiasts.  The institute was easily accessible via phone and email, and was very courteous while assisting us to choose the class that was best suited for us.  We decided on Introductory Backpacking: Colorado River.  It was exactly what we were looking for; adventurous, educational, and challenging.

South Rim Trail Map

South Rim Lodging

After arriving at Phoenix Airport on a Wednesday evening, we rented the smallest, cheapest car available and drove 3.5 hours up to the Grand Canyon Park that same night.  Since we had arrived in the evening we weren’t able to see anything along the unlit highway; however we could easily feel the change in altitude and temperature during our ascent.  With complete darkness surrounding us the foot might have been a little heavy on the throttle, because we soon found flashing lights behind us.  The officer advised us to slow down so we are able spot the sleeping elk in the middle of the road.  That is important information you may want to consider when driving to the Grand Canyon.

Luckily we didn’t see any elk sleeping on the highway, but once we arrived at Maswik Lodge on the Canyon Rim, we did have to maneuver our way around them roaming on the local streets.  Maswik Lodge was reasonably priced (about $90USD-$120 per night) considering it is located inside the park and only a 5 minute walk to the South Rim.  It was clean and comfortable, but far from a luxury lodge or hotel.

Introductory Backpacking

The next morning we were scheduled to be at the Grand Canyon Field Institute at 8:00am for an all-day Introductory Backpacking class.  Our instructor and tour guide, Melanie Miles, was perfect for the job.  Not only does she have many years of wilderness experience, but she is very familiar with the ecological history of the Grand Canyon’s formation and shared many hidden treasures with us throughout the trails.

The class was made up of four diverse students.  Everyone was new to backpacking and we all socialized rather easily despite our age differences (two classmates were retirees.)  During our 1-day course we learned about the history and geological splendor of the Grand Canyon, how to pack minimally and strategically, appropriate clothing, adequate food, water rationing, and a few safety precautions.  The most informative was the actual packing list review.  As first timers, we brought too much stuff than we needed or could fit in our packs.  Not only was there too much, but it would have added unnecessary weight; a topic that is most important when backpacking.  The instructor spent time with each person reviewing what items to bring and what items are not practical for the trip.  Each student weighed their pack to make sure it was manageable for the duration of the entire trip.  The institute also provides equipment rental.  Aracely and I both rented hiking sticks and Aracely even rented a backpack that was more than suitable.  After downsizing our packing list several times our final pack weight including food was: Jason 42lbs, Aracely 36lbs.  It’s important to note that as a couple we were able to minimize our pack weight by distributing a single tent and camping stove between the two of us.  After the classroom instruction, the group was led to a beautiful scenic view, Schoscone Point, along the South Rim.  We all looked in awe and took pictures of what we were soon about to conquer.

Camping on the South Rim

That evening we chose less expensive accommodations by utilizing the park’s campgrounds.  At only $18USD per campsite, we saved compared to the lodge costs.  During sunset, we set up our tent in a reasonably sized site, near the public wash house.  This provided us a short walk to access restrooms and sinks, making the night’s tasks a bit easier.   The temperature on the Rim was about 50 degrees Fahrenheit during the day.  Somewhat chilly, but you must remember you are 7,000 feet above sea level.  In the evenings the temperature drops significantly.  We cooked dinner, washed up and laid our heads to rest, for we knew the challenge ahead.  That night, the temperature dropped to 20 degrees Fahrenheit.  Fortunately, we were encased in sleeping bags fit to withstand those temperatures.

South Rim Kaibab Trail

South Rim Kaibab Trail

Early Friday morning we regrouped with Melanie and the others and began our descent into the Canyon via the Kaibab Trail from the South Rim.  Our destination was Bright Angel Campground, which is located next to the Colorado River.  The 7.5 miles of switchbacks, unforgiving terrain and breathtaking views took 7 hours to complete.  Although the hike was physically challenging for both Aracely and I, it is still possible for many to accomplish.  Our group included a female in her 60s who carried her own backpack and was able to cope with the difficult terrain.  Our guide, Melanie, was very good at managing the different intensity levels of the team.  Rest stops were made as needed, most often along designated areas with public restrooms that were surprisingly clean and adequate.  One of the most amazing scenic rest stops is Ooh Aah Point, which is approximately 780 feet from the South Rim.  Here, you can take wonderful photos sitting on a ledge overlooking the entire Canyon.  As we continued to hike down, Melanie would explain the different vegetations we encountered and pointed out the different layers of rocks that make up the Grand Canyon’s walls.  The further we descended the Kaibab Trail the more the temperature increased.  Approximately every 1,000 feet in altitude the Grand Canyon weather temperature can change 3-6 degrees Fahrenheit.  It is much more efficient to wear layers of clothes that can be easily removed as you become warmer.

Aracely Descending the Kaibab Trail

Grand Canyon Weather

Carefully consider the time of year you plan your hike.  A hike during the summer can begin in 75 degree Fahrenheit weather and finish at 110 degrees once you arrive at the bottom.

Mules

Throughout the trail you will encounter packs of mules making their way to or from the bottom of the Grand Canyon.  The mules carry passengers, luggage or even supplies from Phantom Ranch (located at the bottom of the Canyon.)  Hikers have the option of a mule carrying their luggage, which will then be waiting for them when they reach Phantom Ranch.  These individuals only need to carry enough water and food for the hike down.  It was also shocking to see how these mules were able to safely carry passengers while remaining sure footed along the trail.  The mule packs create large crevices along the trails that require constant maintenance.  Melanie informed us that at one point the park had considered abolishing the mules from the trails, but it was decided that the mules played a significant role in the history of the Grand Canyon.  Another fascinating encounter was with the adventure runners that run the trails from South Rim to North Rim across the entire Canyon in a single day.

Two Backpackers in the Grand Canyon

Bright Angel Campground

When we arrived at Bright Angel Campground we were desperate to remove our bags and rest.  The Grand Canyon weather was now a comfortable 85 degrees Fahrenheit.  A thorough cleaning in the sink was well deserved to remove the coat of sand on our skin.  Everyone set up their tents within a group campsite that provided benches and storage for our food.  The storage containers were made of metal to prevent the mule deer from intruding.

Phantom Ranch

Later that evening we visited the famous Phantom Ranch; the only lodging facility below the Canyon Rim.  This place has a very cool backpacker atmosphere; everyone is very friendly and social.  The grounds include dormitories and rustic cabins, which can be reserved while spending several days on the Canyon floor.  Much of the lodging includes showers and restrooms.  Also popular is the Phantom Ranch Canteen where meals, beverages, and snacks are available.  With reservations, you can participate in family style dining in a log cabin setting.  And yes, the beverages do include beer.  Just remember the more you drink, the more weight the mules have to carry out.  The Canyon floor can only be accessed by foot, mule or the river.  Everything you eat and dispose of is transported out by way of mule.  After some socializing, we retreated to our tents for a good night’s rest, one that would be considerably warmer than the previous night.

Lunch Above the Colorado River

Indian Granary & Havasu Falls

The following morning we had an exploratory hike to a great lookout point above the river where we had lunch. We also went exploring to a 1,000 year old Native Indian granary.  Melanie explained the different food storing techniques the Native Indians used.  The group learned so much from Melanie during our hikes which combined education and adventure.  Another option available to the group was a trek to Havasu Falls.  These waterfalls are described as having a bluish green tint to the water and are located above the campgrounds.

Bright Angel Trail

South Rim Bright Angel Trail

After two nights of camping at Bright Angel, we began the hike ascending from the Canyon floor.  This time we would climb out via the Bright Angel Trail.

Indian Gardens Campground

Four and half miles later we arrived at Indian Gardens Campground for one last night out in the wilderness.

A river runs through the campground which provided great scenery during the hike to the campsite.  Indian Gardens also serves as a resting stop for the mule herds between Phantom Ranch and the South Rim.

Sunset at Plateau Point

Plateau Point

That evening, we hiked another 1.5 miles to witness the panoramic views at Plateau Point.  During our walk we encountered mule deer willing to pose for photos.  The mule deer just couldn’t compare with the most brilliant sunset against the red rock of the Canyon.  We stood in awe as the rock glowed with orange and red tints.

The Climb Out

On the last morning at 7:00am, we began our final hike back to the South Rim.  The trail from Indian Gardens consists of endless switchbacks with steep stair-like rocks. It was the most strenuous leg of our hike.  Determined to beat the class record, we left our group behind and pushed ourselves to climb 4.5 miles in under 2.5 hours.  We felt exhausted, but extremely accomplished.  It is advisable to hike at a pace that is manageable based on your physical condition.  For Aracely and I, it was great a challenge, and an unforgettable experience.

Aracely Next to Giant Cactus

After returning our equipment we began our drive back to Phoenix.  Daylight provided us the opportunity to see the beauty of the landscape we missed on our initial drive to the Grand Canyon.  Taking a photo next to a giant cactus was just another highlight of the trip and it was a perfect ending to our outdoor adventure.

Other great hikes you might enjoy from the Americas:

• Hiking Ciudad Perdida (the Lost City) in Colombia
• Hiking to Dinosaur Fossil Footprints in Bolivia

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We joined a 3-day trek with Condortrekkers, a non-profit tour company based out of Sucre, Bolivia.  Our tour included walking on an Inca Trail, visiting the crater town of Maragua and seeing ancient fossilized dinosaur footprints.

On day one we took a microbus from Sucre to a nearby small town where our group of 7 hopped into a “camion,” the only local transportation available to the town of Chataquila where we began our hike.

Packing in the Camion, Our Local Transportation

Our first leg of the hike involved walking down an ancient Inca Trail.  This was a great workout for the calf muscles as each step required balancing on loose rocks of varying sizes while lugging the weight of our backpacks.  We hiked a total of 7 hours on the first day which included some tough climbing in the dark.

Walking The Inca Trail in Bolivia

The first half of our second day included visiting the “Devil’s Throat” waterfall and walking through the town of Maragua located in the crater of the same name.  It was a total of 5 hours from our campsite to Ninu Mayu, where we explored the ancient dinosaur footprints.

Dinosaur Footprints

The hike to the dinosaur site was exhausting.  We enjoyed a great fresh lunch and quick siesta before continuing for another 3 hours to our second campsite.

Siesta at the Dinosaur Footprints

We arrived just before dark and set up our tents under millions of stars and a full moon.  Our group enjoyed a delicious vegetarian dinner as we got to know each other and rested from the strenuous hike.

Enjoying Dinner, Always Delicious Vegetarian Dinners

The final day involved only a 3-hour hike to what seemed like the most remote bus stop in the world.  It’s probably not even appropriate to call it a bus stop, considering we are riding in camiones.  We road in the camion with the locals for 3.5 hours back to Sucre.  Along the way, we saw many farmers working their land and shepherds herding.

Farmers Working the Fields

Condortrekkers also offers 3-day, 2-day and 1-day treks.   For more information on what they offer, check out their website http://www.condortrekkers.org or their fan page by clicking here.

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KanBa Caves of Semuc Champey, Guatemala

Note: We didn’t have a waterproof camera to take pictures of the cave inside or outside. If you have pictures, or plan on visiting the caves, we would love to showcase your pictures on this post. Thank you!

Semuc Champey Caves

After paying the entrance fee to the owner of the caves and the Inn Posada Las Marias, you meet the guide for the adventure.  The guides are provided by the cave’s administration and you don’t have a choice.  Each guide has a good understanding of the caves structure and hidden surface.  This is important when you find yourself swimming in a cave with the potential to kick hidden rocks lurking below.

A Candle Leads the Way

Each person is provided a single white candle about 4 inches long.  Next, you are led up steep steps into the large opening of the cave.  We entered the cave at ankle deep water and paused to light our primitive flashlights, or candles.  The water came from our ankles, to our knees, to our waist and eventually to our chest.  We all held our candles high in a sad attempt to further brighten our way.

• Tikal National Park Video Tour
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• Monterrico Beach Guatemala Video Tour
• Semuc Champey Guatemala Video Tour

The cave was masked in darkness, and exuded a creepy feeling of the unknown.  We continued to walk through the cave with varying water levels.  Occasionally our guide warned us to be careful not to bang our legs on the submerged rocks that rose up from the cave floor, but inevitably we did.

Swimming in a Cave

Our guide explained, “You must swim now, make sure you don’t extinguish your candle.”  “Huh,” we thought to ourselves.  You could see everyone in the group make eye contact with each other in an attempt to justify our own personal shock.  I’m not a good swimmer.  Okay, I’m not a swimmer at all and I sure can’t swim with one hand in the air.  Jason was close behind me and suggested I hold onto his neck while resting on his back.  My job became to hold the two candles in one hand while circled around his neck with the other arm.  Jason then swam with both hands, frog style across the dark pool.  Many people had wet their candles during the swim, but we all helped each other ignite them before continuing.

Climbing Ladders

As if we were in a small mine, different levels of the cave were connected by ladders made of thin metal pipes held together with thick bands of rubber and black electrical tape.  We had to climb these ladders, which in our minds would be a legal nightmare in the States, but I guess that is truly one of the advantages to adventures in Central America.  Narrow tunnels led to different chambers in the cave, some with still pools of water and others with rushing water falls.   The cave’s walls were decorated with stalactite and stalagmite formations.  We even had the option to climb up a waterfall and jump off a short cliff.  Yes, all this inside the cave and far away from daylight.   Jason went for it.  I on the other hand, was particularly shy and nervous in the darkness of that cave and watched in disbelief as Jason trusted his life with our guide.  He was the only one to make the jump.

The guide makes the journey fun with several surprises that we won’t disclose here.  One bit of advice is to bring a glow stick to wear around your neck.  We wish we did.  We also don’t suggest this tour for those that aren’t physically fit, since some of the ladder climbing is a bit confined and difficult.

Budget Travel Tips

Turquoise Pools of Semuc Champey, Guatemala

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Our Volcano Boarding Crew

For $23 per person Big Foot Hostel offers Volcano Boarding trips any day of the week when they can get enough people to sign up.  The group got picked up at 9:00am in the morning and everyone piled into the back of a pickup truck for a bumpy 45 minute ride to the base of Volcano Cerro Negro.  Along the drive we passed several settlements and waved to the workers leading their cattle to the farms.

We arrived to a small ranch styled building where each person paid another $100 Cordobas or $5 US dollars entrance fee to the volcano park.  Everyone was then handed an orange bag and a wooden board with a laminated piece on the bottom for speed.  The board was

Volcano Boarding on Cerro Negro with Bigfoot Hostel

large and a bit awkward to carry so I gave mine to Jason and I offered to carry his light orange bag and our daypack.  Our guide, Danny from England, led us up a rocky path to the top of the volcano’s crater.  As we walked he educated us on Cerro Negro and about Nicaragua’s volcanic chain which we could see in the distance.  Once we reached the top, he instructed us to put on the jumpsuits and goggles.  After taking some group pictures in our silly outfits, he gathered us around for further instructions on how to make it down the mountain fast or safely.

“There are two sections to this slope,” he began.  “You will start off at a slower speed and then half way down you hit a 45 degree angle where you will pick up a lot of speed.  You won’t see it approaching, but you will feel it.  To keep from being thrown off your board, you must keep it straight by taping your heels on the gravel one at a time.  Once you hit the 45 degree angle, if you want to go for gold, just hold your legs up and hope for the best. If you want to slow down, continue to tap your heels on the ground in an alternating rhythm.”  He also reminded us the top speeds were around 75km/h for females and 85km/h for males.  We were all a bit nervous, some more than others.  In groups of two we began to volcano board down the black volcanic gravel.

Amy, a traveler from New Zealand, and I were the second group to go.  My heart was racing.  When I heard Danny say, “Go!”  I gave

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A second tour operator stood at the bottom of the volcano operating a speed gun.  Everyone was eager to find out their speed.  My speed was 36km/h, the fastest girl of the day by a long shot and the girl with the biggest scrape too.  Still, I felt a little proud of that.

Volcano boarding is probably not for everyone, but it is definitely an adrenaline rush.  If you decide to go boarding down Cerro Negro, remember that not everyone enjoys it and you will end up with some scrapes and burns to show for it.  Regardless, you’ll have an exciting story to tell.

Click here to see more PHOTOS of Volcano Boarding

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Laguna de Alegría

While staying in Alegría, El Salvador it’s necessary to visit Laguna de Alegría, a green hot spring fed sulfur lake inside the crater of volcano Tecapa that exudes mysticism.  From Alegría’s town center you can easily walk 45 minutes in sandals along a cobblestone road or hire a guide to take you on a 2-hour hike up and over the crater’s ridge then down to the lakes edge.  Of course, Aracely and I opted for the hike.  Our hostel recommended a local 21 year old to guide us with complete confidence.

We woke up the next morning and ate pupusas for breakfast, packed 2 liters of water and met our guide Tulio outside the hostel at 9:00am.  The hostel owner advised us that we could trek in sandals since the hike was brief and easy.  We didn’t wear boots, but we did choose something sturdier than sandals.  Aracely and I both strapped on our Teva hiking sandals instead and dressed in shorts and t-shirts.  We were told that at the foot of the lake was a tienda selling snacks and drinks, so it wasn’t necessary to pack any food.

As we walked away from the hostel, Tulio, our guide, began educating us on the history of Volcano Tecapa.  Coffee farms were plenty and we sucked on a few of the red ripe beans for energy, similar to the ways of the coffee harvesters.  The hike began slowly on easily traversed trails through coffee farms and then prairie landscapes as we neared the top of the volcano.  One of the most beautiful sites along the trail was the constant bright color from flower bushes and trees.  Once along the crater’s ridge we had several views down on the town of Alegría.  We crossed a radio tower patrolled by several military men and then turned left down into the crater via a vague trail.  It was 10:30am and our journey was about to begin.

Flowers on Volcano Tecapa

We seemed to be following a trail for the first 30 minutes down the lush crater walls.  After that we were literally skiing down steep dirt slopes.  It was peculiar considering we were told we could hike in sandals.  A few slips on our butts and hands and the leisurely stroll quickly turned into an extremely difficult hike with no trails.  Our guide led the way with his dull wailing machete.  I laughed a few times and Aracely smiled; we were thrilled by the idea that this was a more challenging hike than we initially imagined.

An hour after we descended into the crater Tulio alerts us that we are off the trail we intended to take.  He explained that the farmers must have covered the trail with brush or the trail had naturally overgrown.  I guess it’s not traveled much during the low season.  No worries, we were with a local guide.  We moved on searching for the trail that would lead us to the crater lake.  All volcano craters aren’t created equal and this one was covered in thick forest, steep rock walls and was of significant size.  The crater walls were filled with v-shaped valleys, so in order to traverse around the crater in a circle you needed to hike large ‘W’ patterns along the crater walls to avoid the steep cliffs.  During our search we passed grazing horses and cows.  It’s hard to image how thick the forest was considering I just mentioned animals were grazing, but I assure you, I was as stunned as you are reading this.  We continued hiking and it soon became apparent to Aracely and I that Tulio was lost.  Our smiles disappeared, our stomachs growled of hunger and we began to question our guides’ next steps.

It was 12:30pm; we should have arrived at the lake at 11:00am.  We had finished 1 liter of water already, not expecting to hike long.  The trek had become so dangerous that for the first time I was scared not only for Aracely, but for myself.  I couldn’t handle the feeling of being scared and I started to become very frustrated.  Tulio climbed 10 meters up a tree to orient himself with the crater.  He was wearing a pair of jeans and worn through Vans and only carried 1 liter of water.  Looking for the power lines from the radio station that stood atop the crater, Tulio shouted to us that it was only 30 minutes to the power lines and then we can start over on the correct trail.  We faithfully followed his lead, traversing the crater’s walls to the power lines.

I stepped on a log that collapsed like a booby trap and covered my boot in termite infested wood dust.  A black scorpion grazed my hand as I cleared some dirt off a rock for gripping.  Tulio said we were lucky the snakes weren’t out today, because they are extremely poisonous; I was pleased to know that the scorpions were not.  Our Teva hiking sandals were not meant for this hike.  We constantly had to remove them to shake out the dirt and rocks caught between our feet and the sandal’s bottom.  I haven’t figured out what these overly engineered sandals are designed for, besides walking around town.  Even in rivers they seem to trap every little pebble.  Long pants would have also been a great benefit, since thorns gave us cuts and scraps on our legs.  More important than all those luxuries is the need for food and water.  My energy was draining quickly.  We hadn’t eaten in over 5 hours and we stopped drinking our remaining water for fear of not getting out of the forest before the sun set at 5:30pm.

An hour after we began to look for power lines, Tulio, using his cellular phone, called the hostel for advice.  Aracely listened in on the conversation.  He was clearly lost and they couldn’t help him much considering he didn’t know where he was.  I feared Tulio was still trying to get to the lake.  At this point, I wanted out of the forest and didn’t care about the lake at all.  Tulio knew we were upset and he was too.  He kept quiet.  Most frustrating for us was the fact that Tulio did not know this mountain.  I asked Aracely to explain to Tulio that we wanted off the mountain as quickly as possible.  Unfortunately, he was still trying to get us down the crater, so we quickly switched directions and headed straight up.  After 15 minutes we ran into thick bush that we couldn’t get through.  We backtracked, then went up again in a different direction.  This time we scaled a rock wall that tested my rock climbing ability.  I made it, paused and told Aracely we are not going to do anything like that again.  It was too dangerous and getting hurt on this mountain would only make the situation worse.

We continuously ran into obstacles and couldn’t climb straight up out of the crater.  Tulio received a phone call from the hostel and they recommended he circle back around the inside of the crater, from where we began and search for a road the locals use connecting the towns of Alegría and Santiago de Maria.  That meant it would take another 2 hours possibly to go back in the same direction we came from.  We began to make the journey.  It was now 2:00pm and we were becoming mentally drained.  The hike back was just as difficult, because we couldn’t find the path we had cut initially.  I was carrying Aracely’s backpack at this point and we kept the two water bottles in the side pockets.  During a muddy ascent up a steep wall, one of the bottles fell out.  I decided to take off the backpack and attempt to recover it.  Once I reached the bottle, I realized I needed both hands to scale back up the muddy slope.  Tulio had climbed half way down to where I was so I threw him the bottle.  It was a bad choice.  I should have put the bottle in my shirt.  My throw was short and the bottle fell again, this time farther, to unknown bottom.  Tulio adamantly offered to retrieve it, but I insisted he not.  I know he felt bad about the situation, but it wasn’t worth putting our selves in danger again.  The bottle stayed.  As I climbed back up and grabbed the backpack again I realized it had an 8-inch slice through the main compartment.  The thorns must have cut right through it as it scraped the hedges we crawled under.

Merlin Edith (a local child) on Volcano Tecapa

After hiking another hour we reached a road!  It was a great feeling of relief and a sure sign we weren’t spending the night on the volcano.  Confidently, we marched down the road to what I believed was going to eventually be the lake.  We came to a few crossroads and our guide hesitantly chose a direction and we went with it.  After only 30 minutes walking along the cobblestone winding road, our guide began to knock on the metals doors of some rural dwellings.  To help put it into perspective, these were extremely primitive huts where peasant families lived on the volcano surrounded by thick forest.  The doors granted access to their property and were sometimes far from the actual house.  There were no answers to our knocks.  We were still lost.

We walked for several kilometers up and down steep grades, passing locals carrying water and wood to their homes on cattle and horses.  I had reached total exhaustion and sat on the road for a rest.  It was clear to me that we needed to collect fruit for the night.  I asked Aracely to communicate to Tulio our need for food and water for the evening.  By his reaction, it appeared that Tulio still felt confident we were going to make it out before dusk.  It was 3:30pm and the sun would be setting in 2 hours.  Our guide stopped as we neared some drum playing in the distance.  Seizing the opportunity to rest, I sat on the road again.  This is not a road traveled by vehicles so there is no risk of being run over.  After speaking with some locals passing by Tulio informed us that we were close to a neighboring city of Alegría, named Santiago de Maria.  Aracely asked if there were buses in Santiago de Maria that we could take to Alegría.  The local responded yes.  This was it… a way out.  As the locals left, Aracely and I were already walking to the next town.  Tulio halted us and explained that the drums in the background came from the homes of bandits.  This was a gut wrenching feeling.  He gave us the choice of walking through the neighborhoods of bandits, risking losing our camcorder and SLR camera and our safety, or heading in the other direction towards what should be Alegría.  Aracely was willing to make the short hike to Santiago de Maria to ensure we escape the volcano before dusk, but I wasn’t comfortable risking our safety and equipment.  I would rather sleep on the volcano than knowingly risk her safety.  Tulio didn’t want to take us the route of the bandits either and was relieved we decided to return in the direction we came.

As we walked uphill heading to one of the first crossroads we encountered while hiking on the road, Aracely and I continually fell behind Tulio, struggling to maintain enough energy.  After passing fruit trees earlier in the hike, I couldn’t believe there was none to be found when we needed it most.  We arrived at the crossroad and headed down a new route; this time through a locals property with their permission.  She explained that Alegría was about 3 kilometers away and a difficult walk.  A hint of hope began to emerge amongst us.  Tulio was able to find a local to provide him some water, but unfortunately for Aracely and I, we couldn’t risk drinking the local water for fear of getting ill.  It was 4:00pm and Tulio shouts to us that we have arrived.  Arrived at what, we thought.  The area seemed no different than the last 2 hours, with no town in sight.  More specifically, he knew the road, and knew we would make it off the volcano before dusk.  Relieved, we all dropped the large rocks we had been carrying for defense.  30 minutes later, we arrived at the entrance to the crater lake and the tienda for drinks and snacks.  We ordered two sugar drinks and three waters to share between the three of us.  My body changed immediately.  You gain a strong understanding of the importance of food and water during extreme activity.  After regaining strength and mental motivation we told Tulio we had no desire to visit the lake today, we just wanted to get home.

Laguna de Alegría in Volcano Tecapa

Along the road back to Alegría, we purchased three oranges from a local girl and savored the sweetness of comfort.  Comfort knowing our challenges were done for the day and no one was injured. We arrived home at 4:45pm, 45 minutes before dusk.  We would return the next day to experience the sulfur lake, known as Laguna de Alegría, minus the 7.5-hour hike.

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