Gamez Island in Gulf of Chiriquí National Park, Panama

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Sunset Picture taken from Volcano El Hoyo overlooking Los Maribios Volcano Chain

Check out Volcano Boarding in Leon Nicaragua.

This photo was taken from Volcano El Hoyo looking out at Los Maribios volcano chain in Nicaragua during our 2-day trek booked out of León with Quetzaltrekkers.

As you head towards León it is impossible to miss the view of the perfectly shaped Volcán Momotombo. Rising 1297 meters high, Momotombo towers over Lago Xolotlan (Lago de Managua) and its little brother, the island volcano Momotombito. Momotombo began growing 4500 years ago and last erupted in 1905. Momotombo played an important role in history when, in 1625, it buried Nicaragua’s former capital, the old city of León, under layers of volcanic ash. – Quetzaltrekkers

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Culture and art is best represented in Central America by the old American school buses that have customized and painted in glaring colors. The art on these buses is taken seriously and those details are captured well in this short Travel Video from Jason and Aracely of 2Backpackers.com. Enjoy the show!

Photo Contributors: @travelvice & @ImPedrovski

Old American School Bus

Front Grill of Old American BlueBird School Bus from Antigua, Guatemala

As a kid growing up in the USA, I, like the majority of the student population, rode a big yellow bus to school every morning.  Back then, never did I imagine that later in life I would be making my way down Central America in that same type of transportation.  Only this time, the colors and creative modifications of the bus are kaleidoscopical.

Old American school buses, affectionately referred to as “Chicken Buses,” are the primary mode of transportation throughout all of Central America.  Depending on what kind of traveler you are, you either avoid them or take advantage of them whenever possible.  In our case, Jason and I have a love hate relationship with the chicken buses.  We love them because they are cheap, just as uncomfortable as a tourist shuttle, safe and we get to experience the culture of a country up close and personal.

Cheap Local Transportation

First, let’s talk numbers.  As a concrete example, we spent $33.70 between the two of us on transportation from the entrance of the Salvadorian boarder to the entrance of the Honduran border, which is approximately 228 miles.  In comparison, while in Guatemala, we often traveled in tourist shuttles, with the exception of getting from Monterrico Beach to the boarder of El Salvador.  Only focusing on our trip from Antigua to Panajachel to Semuc Champey, which is about 164 miles, we spent $69.22 in total.  That’s a $35.52 savings and an additional 64 miles distance for riding the local buses.  That’s the value of two nights in a hostel and a meal.  This is what budget travel is about, finding the cheapest alternative.

Little Comfort

A Crowded Bus in Colon, Panama

Second, each time we hopped in a tourist shuttle we were just as cramped, if not more than on a chicken bus.   These transportation companies are definitely not concerned with the comfort level of their passengers.  They will squeeze 5 of us into a 3 seat row bench and most either don’t have or don’t use air conditioner during the 8 hour journey.  Furthermore, if the road conditions are bad, unless you’re in a Mercedes-Benz S-class, your ride will be bumpy on both a chicken bus and a shuttle.

Safety on Buses

Backpacks Stored on a Bus in Central America

Then there is safety.  I have read many chicken bus theft stories on multiple web forums and I am grateful that Jason and I have yet to experience anything like that.  But, I must say that thus far, we have felt extremely safe on the road.  We even prefer the buses over taxis; I guess we just feel more safe in numbers.  Our bags are usually right next to us, near us or in plain view of us.  We do practice precaution and try to be aware of our belongings and surroundings and we carry a money belt for cash, passports and credit cards.  I know that we can’t control every situation and the possibility exists of getting our things stolen, but if we allowed negative possibilities to dictate our life we wouldn’t be traveling in these foreign countries in the first place.

Local Culture on Buses

Finally, riding on a chicken bus is a unique way to experience the true culture.  As I mentioned, this is the primary and daily mode of transportation for locals.  These buses stop everywhere, and frequently, which adds additional time to your journey.  The system acts like veins in a body, connecting the tiniest isolated town to the rest of the country.  To get from one location to the next, depending on how far you want to go, you may have to make several transfers, but it could potentially be the same story with the tourist shuttles.  Everyone rides them including school children, farm workers, teachers, market and street vendors, all making their way to the populous cities.  From what I’ve seen, people transport just about everything on the buses, and I’m convinced they are essential to the economy of these countries. Without these old American school buses, I am guessing 90% of the population wouldn’t go anywhere, since owning a vehicle is a luxury only the wealthy enjoy.

Entertainment on Buses

There is also an entertainment value to the whole experience to be quite frank.  In each bus there is usually a driver and a conductor.  The conductor collects the fares,  helps passengers with their carry on baggage, and hangs off the side of the bus yelling the bus route to everyone passing by.  He also skillfully gets on and off at each stop while the bus is still in motion to help anyone that may need it.   The baggage brought on the buses is anything from a sack of coffee, fruits and vegetables, chickens and anything else that can be sold at a market.  Chicken buses are also habitually visited by street vendors who will ride the bus to the next stop or town while they push their merchandise onto a captive audience.  They are selling everything from beauty product to snacks and cold drinks, and even entire meals consisting of rice, chicken and tortillas, all of which are served in a small plastic bags. The vendors are of all ages from very young children to elder men and women; all are very persistent and persuasive.  When the bus is crammed with people standing in the aisle, the vendors will artfully weave their way down the aisle to offer their products to every person on board.

Love Them & Hate Them

As you might have guessed, I’m an advocate for the chicken buses, but I did mention that Jason and I have a love hate relationship with them.  Hate, because it can be hard work lugging our heavy bags on and off at each connection point.  It’s tiring, hot, uncomfortable and you will definitely feel a sense of culture shock. That said, be forewarned, it’s definitely not for everyone.  If you can spare the cash, you may opt for the tourist shuttles, but don’t expect space or comfort.  If you can spare a little more time, all you need is a little patience and an open mind and you will be guaranteed an adventure on every chicken bus ride.

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St. Francis Church in Panajachel Guatemala at Lake Atitlan

Watch our HD Adventure Travel Video of Climbing Volcano San Pedro at Lake Atitlan in Guatemala
Panajachel is the largest town surrounding Lake Atitlan in Guatemala’s highlands and serves as the base for tourists visiting the area. Lake Atitlan is one of the highlights when visiting Guatemala and many tour bus companies will shuttle you from Antigua for a visit. Enjoy the beautiful landscapes of volcanoes surrounding Lake Atitlan, but don’t go swimming in the water.

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Elderly Woman Resting in the Square of Juayua, El Salvador

The town of Juayua, El Salvador organizes a food festival every weekend. It’s a large production and after experiencing it, we were very impressed with how much work goes into this on a weekly basis. This photos was taken while walking around the town. We noticed an elderly woman sitting on a park just people watching.

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Sunbathing on Caye Caulker's Split

Despite bordering major countries on the backpacking trail (Mexico in the north, Guatemala to the west and Honduras to the south) many travelers skip Belize all together because of the much higher costs involved in a trip here.  With some clever planning, however, Belize is a perfect spot for water sports enthusiasts and adventure junkies alike, and can be enjoyed without going too much over a tight budget.

San Pedro Beach

Ultimate Adventure Vacation

Belize is a must visit for anyone interested in Latin America, or snorkeling, diving, adventure or pure relaxation.  Not many countries combine such a diversity of landscapes: mountains, jungle, white-sand beaches, coastal wetlands and islands surrounded by crystal clear water.  Belize has it all, and because it only measures 174 miles north to south and 60 miles east to west, it is easy to experience all different aspects in one relatively quick visit, whether that means including the small English-speaking country on your backpacker trail, or making it your vacation location of choice for a week escape.

The easiest way to get ‘the best of both worlds’ and combine the Caribbean sea and the green jungle, is to visit the Cayes, or islands, in the crystal clear Caribbean waters off the coast of Belize, and San Ignacio, on the border to Guatemala.  Although located on the exact opposite ends of the country, they are only 60 miles or a 2.5 hours bus ride apart.

The Cayes

Snorkeling in the Caribbean Sea

The Cayes are great for snorkeling and diving, as they are just a boat ride away from the Mesoamerican Reef, the world’s second largest reef, and close to the famous Blue Hole – a stop on almost every diver’s bucket list.  Even first time snorklers can swim with sharks, turtles, sting rays and schools of hundreds of fish.  Neither Caye has a truly decent beach, a shame considering the spectacularly blue waters surrounding them, and except for diving, snorkeling and soaking up rays on a pier, there is not much to do other than sip Belizean rum punch in one of the many bars and nibble on some oven fresh banana bread.

Aktun Tunichil Muknal Cave

San Ignacio

Moving the adventure inland, San Ignacio, aka Cayo (or The Cayo District) serves as an adventure lover’s base for the area’s cave and jungle tours, kayaking or canoeing on the Macal river, zip lines, cave tubing, horse back riding and the ultimate – the Actun Tunichil Muknal (ATM ) tour.  The ATM cave holds Mayan artifacts including several skulls and bones and even an entire skeleton of a young Mayan girl, the Crystal Maiden.

The Cayo District also holds most of Belize’s Maya ruins, such as Caracol, which is the best known site, and smaller ones like Cahal Pech and Xuchantunich.

The small size of the country means you could do both the land and water-based tours from one location, and there are tour operators on the Cayes who work together with the operators in San Ignacio, so that you can organize inland adventure tours from Caye Caulker or Ambergris Caye.

What does it cost?

Maya Ruins of Cahal Pech

There are a few hostels in Belize, and you can stay in a dorm for around BZ$25.00 / US$ 12.50, double rooms in guesthouses start at BZ$30.00 / US$15.00 for a shared bathroom or en-suite for BZ$40.00 / US$20.00 in the low season.

Main courses in restaurants start at BZ$ 8.00 /US$ 4.00 in San Ignacio, the Cayes are a little bit more expensive.  A meal for two comes to around BZ$ 25.00 / US$ 12.50.

Public transport is very cheap, with buses from Belize City running to all major towns in the country for a max.  The water taxi to Caye Caulker is BZ$20.00 / US$10.00 from Belize City.

Snorkeling tours start at BZ$40.00 / US$20.00 for a half day tour and a full day is BZ$80, the cave tours also start at BZ$ 40.00 / US$ 20.00, and the Actun Tunichil Muknal tour is the most expensive tour BZ$150.00 / US$ 75.00.  This last tour might be the priciest, but by far the most adventurous of all the tours available to visitors in Belize.  At least that is the opinion of the Discovery Channel, National Geographic, the New York Times, and, of course, the Globetrottergirls.

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City Streets in Antigua, Guatemala

La Antigua Guatemala (commonly referred to as just Antigua or La Antigua) is a city in the central highlands of Guatemala famous for its well-preserved Spanish Mudéjar-influenced Baroque architecture as well as a number of spectacular ruins of colonial churches. It has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. – Wikipedia

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Semuc Champey Guatemala from Above

Semuc Champey is a natural monument in the department of Alta Verapaz, Guatemala, near the Q’eqchi’ Maya town of Lanquín. It consists of a natural 300m limestone bridge, under which passes the Cahabòn River. Atop the bridge is a series of stepped, turquoise pools, a popular swimming attraction. Although it can be difficult to get to, Semuc is becoming more and more popular with travelers. – Wikipedia

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One of my favorite things about traveling is being humored by things that seem strange or awkward to me.  We’ve traveled extensively through Central and South America and noticed many different customs, products and behaviors that don’t exist in the United States.  Each individual country does have distinct cultural norms when compared to their neighbors, however, we were still able to observe some common weird things across them all.

No Flushing of Toilet Paper into Toilet

List of 10 Weird Things in Latin America

1. Don’t Throw Toilet Paper in the Toilet

No matter where you are in Central or South America, toilet paper is thrown in the trash can or waste bin.  This is a challenge initially for those traveling from the United States.  Sometimes, subconsciously you inevitably throw it in the toilet, but be aware it can cause a toilet to blow up.  It’s not their practice to dispose of toilet paper this way and their plumbing is not built to handle it.  Every hostel you visit will kindly remind you on the stall door.

Your resource for Colombia travel

2. Liquids are Sold in Plastic Bags

The first time I saw someone with a plastic bag full of water hanging from their mouth I did a double take.  Bottled water is available, but it’s cheaper to buy your fluids in plastic bags.  Street vendors will sell all different types of juices and even full meals of chicken and rice in clear plastic bags.  These bags are similar to those your Mom used to put your lunch sandwiches in.  Yogurt is also usually a liquid and sold in plastic bags.

Bags of Leche (milk)

3. Streets are Named After Dates

This can be very confusing when following a map and conversing about it to your travel partner. “Where do we turn?” “9th of October.” “I asked where do we turn at?”  The dates are usually significant to the region, such as independence day and other holidays.

Streets Named by Dates in South America

4. Unfinished Buildings

Iron rods stick out of the flat roofs of many buildings.  To a foreigner it looks like they just never finished the next floor up, however they are planning for the future.  We are more concerned with the appearance of buildings.  They are more concerned with the cost of the building.  It may look ugly, but if they decide to build another story, the cement floor is already complete and the vertical iron rods are ready for cement.

Is Guatemala safe?

Unfinished Buildings in Quito, Ecuador

5. Money Change is Rare & Precious

When using a cash machine, it usually dispenses large bills, however it is nearly impossible to pay with large bills.  This has been a common theme throughout all of Central and South America. You will find yourself making purchases in order to obtain smaller bills and exact change, but be aware, the retailer usually has a secret stash of change.

6. American School Buses Have a Second Life

You have probably seen our crazy custom Chicken Bus video.  Old American school buses, usually tricked out with creative custom add-ons, are the main mode of transportation in many Central American countries. It gets very crowded and you won’t be buying any tickets to get on these buses.  Hop on when it passes by and you will most likely have a two hour experience that you will remember for a lifetime.  Don’t worry about not having any snacks or drinks with you, street vendors will jump on selling the strangest things.

Chicken Bus from Guatemala

7. Paying To Use Bathrooms

Public bathrooms are never free.  We usually have to pay a US quarter to use them and sometimes you have to pay extra for toilet paper.  The worst part is that they are far from clean or hygienic.

8. Security Guards Carrying Shotguns

Security Guards stand outside banks, museums, clothing stores, gas stations and sometimes even restaurants and they carry big menacing shotguns.  This can be a bit intimidating at first, but it’s a safety precaution and quite normal.

Security Guard in Zipaquira, Colombia

Axion Dish Soap

9. Dish Soap is a Paste

To some this may not seem so different, but when all you’re life you’ve only seen liquid dish soap from a Palmolive bottle, seeing a tub of paste with a sponge lying in it catches your attention.

10. Tuk-Tuk and Motorbikes

Many taxis in the small towns and villages drive tuk-tuks or motorbikes with carts.  It was quite exciting for us to catch our first ride in Guatemala. Tuk-tuks are cheap and quick, moving in and out of traffic.  Negotiate you price ahead of time, as would with any taxi.

Tuk-tuk in Panajachel, Guatemala

And many more!  Please add things that appear strange to you from Latin America in the comments below.

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Tuc Tuc Motor Taxi In Panajachel, Guatemala

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Tuc-Tuc Motor Taxi is a very popular form of transportation in small towns throughout in Latin America. This photo was taken in Panajachel, Guatemala.

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Walking the Streets of Panajachel, Guatemala

I was asked if Guatemala is safe by another traveler while hanging out in a hostel in Argentina.  And let’s be honest, Guatemala is much less developed than Argentina, so it’s a legitimate question.  It’s not the first time we have been asked about traveling in Guatemala, although the questions did usually come up when we were in South America.  You don’t get asked such a question in Central America, mostly because all those countries are relatively the same in terms of safety and infrastructure less Costa Rica.

Safe is an Opinion

This is a very difficult question to answer, not because I think Guatemala is unsafe, but rather because the answer is an opinion.  When speaking about travel safety, you want to hear facts or concrete evidence to squabble your fears.  The only evidence I have is that Aracely and I traveled most of Guatemala for over a month and were never knowingly in danger.  I am not asking you to make a judgement on the safety of traveling in Guatemala based on our experience alone, however all I can share is our experience.

Walking the Streets of Antigua, Guatemala

Guatemala was the first country we visited on this backpacking journey and the most underdeveloped country I had ever been to.  I should clarify by saying, I have never really traveled much beyond the United States, Spain and Germany.  I was nervous.  We were carrying a few thousand dollars worth of equipment and I not only had to worry about myself, but I felt responsible for Aracely’s safety too.

Outside a Restaurant in Flores, Guatemala near Tikal National Park

Guatemala City

We had heard prior to visiting Guatemala that Guatemala City was very dangerous.  Specifically, bus robberies and bus jackings were common by gangs.  We made no plans to visit the city.  When we arrived there by plane, we hopped on a shuttle bus to Antigua, “Gringo Town.”

While staying in Antigua, we did meet travelers that visited Guatemala City during the day for some sightseeing.  They described it as any other major city, and had no bad experiences.  We also were there when our hostel maid received a phone call that her sister was just hit and mugged while picking up her paycheck in the city.  It’s all about experiences and what you may have heard.  We decided to go bowling in the city one night.  A bunch of us rented a private shuttle bus and all went well.

Antigua

Antigua is the backpacking mecca of Guatemala.  All the amenities you are used to exist here including WiFi, bars, dance clubs, laundry facilities, cafes, fast food chains, restaurants and major banks.  If you can’t find something ask another traveler or the Tourist Police.  I think Antigua is the perfect place to get your feet wet as a backpacker.

Chicken Buses of Antigua, Guatemala

Transportation

Antigua is usually the base camp for visiting other nearby attractions such as Lake Atitlan, Xela, Monterrico Beach, Semuc Champey or even Tikal.  Tourists usually take shuttle buses around the country, but Chicken Buses (old American school buses) are available for the more daring.  More daring in the sense that you really need to speak Spanish, be willing to travel slower and hope that you can figure out how to get from one destination to the other.  The shuttle buses will take you directly to your destination, but it will be cramped.

Backpacks Stored in the Back of the Bus

Volcanoes

There are many volcanoes to climb in Guatemala and some have had a history of bandit attacks.  Bandits are looking to rob you and possibly harm you.  It’s very easy to avoid such treks.  Just listen to the advice from tour agencies and hike volcanoes that are national parks.  The tour agencies are always trying to request the government convert more volcanoes into national parks, but it’s a slow process.  Once a national park, rangers patrol the area for your safety.

• Tikal National Park Video Tour
• Climbing Volcano San Pedro Video Tour
• Active Volcano Pacaya Video Tour
• Monterrico Beach Guatemala Video Tour

Armed Guards

It may take some time getting used to seeing armed guards patrol everything from gas stations to jewelry stores.  These aren’t your everyday mall cops, these guys all carry shotguns.  It’s a bit intimidating, however that is what they are going for.

People

The people of Guatemala are kind, the country is explored by few and the adventures are endless.  You won’t find roped walkways and concrete steps on your hike to Semuc Champey.  You will find yourself saying, “This wouldn’t be legal in my country.”  But, this is what makes it so exciting.

Streets of Panajachel, Guatemala at Lake Atitlan

Be Smart Stay Safe

This article isn’t intended to persuade you to avoid Guatemala City, chicken buses or volcanoes that aren’t national parks.  We are just suggesting alternatives if you want to play it safe.  However, the best way to be safe is to be smart.  Don’t carry things in pockets that can be easily pick pocketed.  Try to make friends and travel in groups.  Always be aware of your surroundings.  These are things that Aracely and I do in every country we visit.

I think Guatemala is special.  I know this because every time Aracely and I are asked about it, we light up and explain how much fun we had while traveling there.

View PHOTOS of Guatemala.

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A Blue Night At Lake Atitlan, Guatemala

Watch our HD Adventure Travel Video: Climbing Volcano San Pedro at Lake Atitlan in Guatemala

We only visited Lake Atitlan, Guatemala for two nights and during our short time there we were able to capture many different views of the lake.  This eerie yet beautiful image is of a storm that is approaching the lake.  The lights in the background are from the town of San Pedro.

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Cicada Shedding Skin at Semuc Champey, Guatemala

Semuc Champey is a natural wonder of Guatemala near the Q’eqchi’ Maya town of Lanquín.  As we walked though the jungle to get to the 300m limestone bridge of stepped of turquoise pools we encountered this cicada molting.

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Lake Atitlan Boat Dock

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Sunrise at Volcano Pacaya in Guatemala

Pacaya is an active complex volcano in Guatemala. It rises to an elevation of 2,552 metres (8,373 ft). After being dormant for a century, it erupted violently in 1965 and has been erupting continuously since then.

Pacaya lies 30 kilometres (19 mi) southwest of Guatemala City and close to Antigua.

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KanBa Caves of Semuc Champey, Guatemala

Note: We didn’t have a waterproof camera to take pictures of the cave inside or outside. If you have pictures, or plan on visiting the caves, we would love to showcase your pictures on this post. Thank you!

Semuc Champey Caves

After paying the entrance fee to the owner of the caves and the Inn Posada Las Marias, you meet the guide for the adventure.  The guides are provided by the cave’s administration and you don’t have a choice.  Each guide has a good understanding of the caves structure and hidden surface.  This is important when you find yourself swimming in a cave with the potential to kick hidden rocks lurking below.

A Candle Leads the Way

Each person is provided a single white candle about 4 inches long.  Next, you are led up steep steps into the large opening of the cave.  We entered the cave at ankle deep water and paused to light our primitive flashlights, or candles.  The water came from our ankles, to our knees, to our waist and eventually to our chest.  We all held our candles high in a sad attempt to further brighten our way.

• Tikal National Park Video Tour
• Climbing Volcano San Pedro Video Tour
• Active Volcano Pacaya Video Tour
• Monterrico Beach Guatemala Video Tour
• Semuc Champey Guatemala Video Tour

The cave was masked in darkness, and exuded a creepy feeling of the unknown.  We continued to walk through the cave with varying water levels.  Occasionally our guide warned us to be careful not to bang our legs on the submerged rocks that rose up from the cave floor, but inevitably we did.

Swimming in a Cave

Our guide explained, “You must swim now, make sure you don’t extinguish your candle.”  “Huh,” we thought to ourselves.  You could see everyone in the group make eye contact with each other in an attempt to justify our own personal shock.  I’m not a good swimmer.  Okay, I’m not a swimmer at all and I sure can’t swim with one hand in the air.  Jason was close behind me and suggested I hold onto his neck while resting on his back.  My job became to hold the two candles in one hand while circled around his neck with the other arm.  Jason then swam with both hands, frog style across the dark pool.  Many people had wet their candles during the swim, but we all helped each other ignite them before continuing.

Climbing Ladders

As if we were in a small mine, different levels of the cave were connected by ladders made of thin metal pipes held together with thick bands of rubber and black electrical tape.  We had to climb these ladders, which in our minds would be a legal nightmare in the States, but I guess that is truly one of the advantages to adventures in Central America.  Narrow tunnels led to different chambers in the cave, some with still pools of water and others with rushing water falls.   The cave’s walls were decorated with stalactite and stalagmite formations.  We even had the option to climb up a waterfall and jump off a short cliff.  Yes, all this inside the cave and far away from daylight.   Jason went for it.  I on the other hand, was particularly shy and nervous in the darkness of that cave and watched in disbelief as Jason trusted his life with our guide.  He was the only one to make the jump.

The guide makes the journey fun with several surprises that we won’t disclose here.  One bit of advice is to bring a glow stick to wear around your neck.  We wish we did.  We also don’t suggest this tour for those that aren’t physically fit, since some of the ladder climbing is a bit confined and difficult.

Budget Travel Tips

Turquoise Pools of Semuc Champey, Guatemala

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Boat on Lake Atitlan, Guatemala

Watch our HD Adventure Travel Video: Climbing Volcano San Pedro at Lake Atitlan in Guatemala

Lake Atitlán is recognized to be the deepest lake in Central America. The lake is shaped by deep escarpments which surround it and by three volcanoes on its southern flank. Lake Atitlan is further characterized by towns and villages of the Maya people. Wikipedia
Lake Atitlán has become one of the most polluted lakes in Central America and is now categorized as toxic. A major ecological cleanup is needed – Time Online Article

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Aracely on Sailboat

The flushing mechanism of our sailboat bathroom was much too complicated for our crew to manage.  First, to flush the toilet two valves need to be opened by switching them from a 90 degree angle to a 45.  Then, a third valve needed to be changed from an upright position to a downward position depending on whether you wanted to fill the toilet bowl or drain it.  Once these three handles were correctly put in place, there was a lever that needed to be pumped at a consistent pace to flush the waste out to sea.  After the bowl was empty, all the three levers needed to be returned to their original position.  If they were not, the dirty water flowed back in and filled the toilet.

El Tango Sailboat

Thus far traveling has been great, but unfortunately I have been cursed with a pea sized bladder.  This makes long trips very inconvenient and many times uncomfortable for me.  That said, this was our first night on the boat and our crew celebrated with after dinner drinks, which for me meant at least one midnight pee.  Good thing we were anchored near one of the islands in San Blas and not yet sailing open seas.  When I woke up from my sleep at around 2am and made my way to the bathroom the toilet was nearly full to the rim.  Someone had left the valves open.  I tried draining it but couldn’t figure it out.  I woke up Jason and he gave it a go without any luck.  “I really have to go,” I told him, but it was impossible for me to pee in an almost full toilet bowl.  What was I to do?

Inside Our Sailboat

My desperate light bulb went on.  I decided to pee off the back of the boat.  That is easier said than done, especially for a girl.  Here’s what I did.  First, I removed my underwear.  Then, I climbed down the ladder located at the back of the boat that led to the ocean water below.  I made my way down the latter far enough to not touch the water with my feet.  Then I lunged back while holding tightly the side bar of the latter and squatted.  The moon lit sky provided just enough light for me to manage this task.  I felt a great relief.

This wasn’t the end of my sailboat bathroom troubles.  If you’ve never been on a sailboat perhaps you don’t know this, but when the sails are up the boat sails at an angle of almost 45 degrees.  Aside from the angle, the boat rocks both side to side and jumps up and down as it makes its way over

Island of Chichime

sea swells.  Now, imagine trying to maneuver all those levers, get yourself situated to do your business, while the floor beneath you is moving like a wild amusement park ride.  Men have it so easy!

The toilet experience made my already eventful sail journey that much more interesting.

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Old Chiriqui River near Boquete, Panama

Boquete is located in the Province of Chiriqui, Panama’s most southwestern region.  Boquete lies 1,200 meters (4,000 feet) above sea level and it’s volcano, Baru, reaches an elevation of 4,000 meters. The Capital of the Chriqui Province is David, which is only a 45 minute drive from Boquete.  David is Panama’s third largest city (after Panama City and Santiago).  David has an international airport with flights to Panama City and San Jose, Costa Rica.

White Water River Rafting Near Boquete, Panama

Panama’s Gringo Retirement Community

There is a growing foreign retirement community in Boquete, due to its relatively cool temperatures, low cost of living and beautiful scenery with small town feel. If your not looking to retire in Central America, it’s also a great place for various adventure activities such as rock climbing, canopy zip lines, whitewater rafting, ATV adventures, hiking to volcanoes and hot springs, bird watching, fishing in the Gulf of Chiriqui and visiting its many islands.  The Gulf of Chiriqui is a part of Panama that includes Coiba National Park and Golfo de Chiriqui National Park which provide access to many islands and mangroves.

Boquete Outdoor Adventures

Whitewater Rafting

During our stay we enjoyed whitewater rafting on the Old Chiriqui River, visited rustic hot springs and spent a day on the Island of Gamez in the Gulf of Chiriqui.  Boquete Outdoor Adventures is one of three outfitters in Boquette; we booked both our whitewater rafting and Gulf of Chiriqui excursion through them.  We encourage you to hire their services during your visit.  They are very well organized with well trained guides that focus on customer service.

Not So Great Hot Springs Near Boquete, Panama

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Beach and Reef at Rocking J

A 3.5 hour bus ride from San Jose takes you to the southern Caribbean Coast of Costa Rica.  This is a place where pristine beaches sneak out of the jungle creating the perfect setting for those who can entertain themselves with the ocean and walks into the forest.

During our stay we first visited Cahuita beach then made our way south to Puerto Viejo de Talamanca where we stayed in Rocking J’s Hostel, a good base location to visit beaches further south.

Cahuita

A small beach town with very little to see and do besides lay on the beach or snorkel.   Walk through its beautifully desolate national park reserve and enjoy one of the best tasting coconut sauce dishes on the Caribbean Coast at Restaurant La Fe.  The town becomes lively at night when interesting local characters harmlessly wander the streets.  Take a seat outside Coco’s Bar and enjoy the show.

Rocking J's Hostel in Puerto Viejo

Puerto Viejo de Talamanca

An hour bus ride south of Cahuita rests Puerto Viejo, considerably more action and development.  Near the town’s main street there are two beaches, including a black sand beach.  We preferred to avoid these dirty, narrow beaches and walked south to Rocking J’s Hostel, a backpackers favorite lodging spot offering tents and hammocks for lodging.  The rooms are less than desirable.  Here you will find the beginnings of pristine beaches and reefs.  Ride a bike 10 minutes south from Rocking J’s to find Playa Cocles, a surfers hot spot and a wide flat beach to spend the day playing on.  This is the closest clean beach around Puerto Viejo.

Playa Cocles at Puerto Viejo de Talamanca in Costa Rica

Playa Chiquita and Punta Uva

These two beaches are a must visit when traveling near Puerto Viejo de Talamanca.  The feedback from many visitors in the Puerto Viejo area is that the beaches are dirty.  This holds true if you never leave the active bar hopping atmosphere in the center of town.  Playa Chiquita and Punta Uva are completely untouched and provide you the picture perfect postcard you envisioned from the Caribbean Coast.  They can be reached either by bike or car on a narrow road that cuts through the Gandoca-Manzanillo Wildlife Refuge.  Consider taking a very long, but rewarding walk along the shoreline.  Playa Chiquita extends 4-6KM and further south is Punta Uva where you will enjoy great swimming and a peaceful jungle setting.

Manzanillo

The last beach town you will encounter south of Punta Uva is not as impressive as the previous beaches, but it’s worth making the journey to see the Caribbean painted palm trees and enjoy a beer at the town’s popular restaurant/ bar.

When visiting the area be mindful of the season.  Make sure you don’t visit during October-November, their rainy season, which is when Jason and I were there.  Hopefully you will be able to enjoy more sunny days than we did.

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