Colombia Travel – Palenque Festival – Photo from Wikipedia

Hidden away in the Colombian jungle for hundreds of years, there lies a small community alive with African heritage. Located less than an hour from Cartagena, in the foothills of Montes de María, and protected by a combination of swamps and jungle, Palenque has been the home to Afro-Colombians, the decedents of the country’s first slaves, for hundreds of years. Now a days, it is a popular destination for travelers looking to see a different side of Colombia.

A Safe Haven for Escaped Slaves

Colombia Travel – Palenque Founder – Photo from Carlos Bustamante

Palenque was thought to have been founded sometime in the 16th century by the escaped slave Benkos Bioho and is considered the first free town in Latin America. Today a statue of Benkos Bioho stands in the center square and shows the founder of this proud community breaking from the chains of slavery.

Colombia Travel – Palenque – Photo by MurderArbelaez

In the beginning, Palenque was far from unique. In fact, the name Palenque originally referred to all “fortified” communities of escaped slaves that surrounded the port of Cartagena. Cartagena was the main slave port in this region of Latin America and as such, there were a number of slave revolts and quite a number of slaves were able to eventually escape into the surrounding jungles. Palenque communities offered a safe haven for these escaped slaves; a place where they could form a community as free men. That being said, out of the dozens of escaped slave communities in this region, only Palenque was able to survive until the present day.

Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity

What makes Palenque an amazing place to visit is the unique cultural traditions that have been able to survive here for hundreds of years. At times you feel like you are walking through a villages in Africa, not one in Colombia.

Palenque was declared a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in part because of the African traditions that still survive here. The Afro-Colombians who currently call Palenque are tied to their past African ancestors through dance, music, and language.

Colombia Travel – Palenque Dancers – Photo by Paula

The language of Palenque, called Palenquero, is perhaps the only surviving Spanish-based Creole language though it is so far from Spanish that every few Spanish speakers can understand it at all. The language has fascinated linguistics, combining African Kikongo languages from Congo and Angola with Portuguese (which was spoken by the slave traders who brought the slaves to Cartagena) and Spanish. Today, less than half of the community’s 3,000 or so residents speak Palenquero though it is being revived through the local school, which has introduced Palenquero classes.

Traditional African dance is also an important element to this community and a way for them to stay connected to their African roots. The local dance school teaches classes for over a 150 of the community’s school children, from kindergarten to teenagers, and has had participated in dance competitions and performances throughout Colombia.

Colombia Travel – Palenquero – Photo from Wikipedia

Couple Travel Tips

• The best time of year to visit Palenque is during the annual Festival of “Drums and Culture” which usually happens in early October.
• Many of the people in Palenque have suffered extreme racism and prejudice when venturing into the city of Cartagena for work. While the community is usually quite welcoming be aware that as an outsider you might be viewed as part of the problem.
• If you don’t have the time or opportunity to visit Palenque you can still get a taste of the community’s culture in the old city of Cartagena. Look for the women in bright colored dresses selling fruit (they are usually from Palenque and even referred to as Las Palenqueras) or head to the Clock Tower just after sunset where you can usually see a performance by one of the local Palenque dance groups.

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Latin America Travel – Breakfast – Photo by Dorli Photography

Breakfast is by far my favorite meal of the day and we all know what an important meal it is.  Back home in the United States, breakfast for me meant deliciously sugary goodness like waffles, pancakes, and french toast piled high with syrup, fruit, and whipped cream.  Definitely not the most nutritious version but it sure was tasting.

Since traveling around Latin America, I have discovered that while breakfast is important, it often gets a second place ranking to lunch, when everyone eats their main meal of the day.  Unlike in the US where breakfast foods have their own separate category, breakfast in Latin America is often times simply a smaller version of typical lunch foods or leftovers from dinner the night before.

Thankfully this isn’t true in all cases and there are a number of traditional foods and recipes reserved strictly for breakfast.  Be sure you try a few of my favorites below.

Colombia

Latin America Travel – Changua – Photo by manuela y daniel

If I had to pick I’d say Colombians have the most creative breakfasts in Latin America.  Each region of the country has its own traditions though many of them can be found mixed together in the capital city of Bogota.

You can’t have a traditional Colombian breakfast without trying their coffee, which they drink 24 hours a day!  The other option is a hot chocolate but don’t be shocked when they drop a chunk of cheese in it.  Colombians often put cheese in their hot chocolates, allowing the cheese to become soft and half melted as they drink, a special treat at the bottom of the cup.

If you want a Colombian breakfast that will really fill you up, ask for Changua.  This milk and egg soup is traditionally served in Bogota and is reportedly a great hangover breakfast.  It is basically a hot milk soup made with a bit of onion, cilantro, and eggs.  You drop the egg in whole, without cracking the yolk until you are ready to eat.

Argentina

Latin America Travel – Facturas y Mate – Photo by amanky

Argentina is famous for its meat.  Having a huge asados (bbq) with sausages, steaks, and every cut of meat you can imagine is not only a typical weekend activity, it’s practically mandatory.  Knowing this, I was expecting and hoping to find that Argentinians eat equally huge, delicious breakfasts filled with bacon, ham, sausage, eggs, and more.  Instead I found that a typical Argentinian breakfast is rarely more than a bit of bread.

Argentines don’t enjoy large breakfasts, often just having a quick snack before heading off to work.  The “snack” usually consists of a few facturas, which is the name for the wide variety of pastries eaten with a traditional Argentine breakfast.  They are more often than not sweet, filled with custards or dulce de leche though you can also find medialunas with ham and cheese filling.

Facturas are often served with additional dulce de leche or jam on the side and breakfast is finished off with coffee (most often café con leche) or yerba mate.

Mexico

Latin America Travel – Huevos Motuleños – Photo by Wikipedia

Breakfast in Mexico, like every meal must of course include a tortilla.  Huevos motuleños offer that and so, so much more.  Here is finally a breakfast that is worth celebrating; a complete collection of delicious goodness that will leave you feeling full all morning.

Huevos motuleños originated in the Yucatan Peninsula and reportedly in the town of Motul during the 1920s.  The dish has now spread all over Mexico with each region giving it their own twist.  In the Yucatan, your Huevos motuleños will most likely consist of a crispy corn tortilla topped with refried beans, tomato sauce (more like spicy salsa – watch out for the habanero peppers), a fried egg, and crumbled cheese.  You can also add pieces of smoked ham, a bit of cilantro, a little lemon juice, and sometimes even peas.

Couple Travel Tips

• If you are missing breakfast “from back home” head over to the local supermarket.  Even though people in Latin America rarely eat the same things for breakfast that you might find back home, they still have most of the items (cereal and milk, pancake mix, bacon) in their supermarkets.
• Breakfast is often a light meal in Latin America but don’t worry, you’ll make up for it at lunch when most people eat their largest meal of the day.  Look for “Menu del Dia” for a traditional, cheap lunch.
• Can’t live without your breakfast traditional of Vegemite or peanut butter?  You better pack a jar to bring with you.  These items are HARD to find and even if you do, they will have a high “import” price.

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Buenos Aires Travel – Buenos Aires Playa – Photo by Gobierno de la Ciudad de Buenos Aires

As we in the northern hemisphere slowly inch our way into summer, down in Argentina they are finally saying goodbye to one of the longest and most glorious summers.

Argentines love summer and spend a good deal of the warm months outdoors. For the lucky, summer can mean month long work vacations and time to explore their own country. In Buenos Aires, summer means parks filled with sunbathers and an almost empty city as people rush to the beach in the south or the beach resorts across the river in Uruguay.

While plenty of people get time off for the summer, not everyone can afford a trip to the beach. The city of Buenos Aires, in an effort to bring summertime bliss to all its citizens, came up with a solution for those left behind in the city.

Buenos Aires Playa

Buenos Aires Travel – Buenos Aires Playa – Photo by Gobierno de la Ciudad de Buenos Aires

The Buenos Aires Playas are “urban beaches” set up in the city’s parks to give people the fun in the sun experience of a beach vacation. The “urban beach” trend has become popular around the world with makeshift beaches popping up for the summer in cities like Paris, Rome, and Tokyo.

Unfortunately the Río de la Plata, the river that Buenos Aires sits on, is not safe to swim in so the beaches don’t actually include a ocean/river experience but that is about all they are missing.

The “playas” are set up with trucked-in sand, beach chairs and umbrellas, volleyball courts, blow up playgrounds for the kids, water games, fountains to cool off in, and much more.

Buenos Aires Travel – Buenos Aires Playa – Photo by Gobierno de la Ciudad de Buenos Aires

There are two main beaches, one in the north in the Parque de los Niños and one in the south at Parque Roca. The other city parks also take part in the summer event by adding chairs, umbrellas, and organized events for their own community park visitors. The “playas” are opened from Tuesday to Sunday, 10am to 8pm throughout the summer.

The beaches offer food courts but guests are welcome to bring their own food and beverages and picnic on the beach. There is even free wifi though you’ll probably be having too much fun to check your Facebook.

In addition to volleyball and water games, the beaches also organize beach tennis, rugby and football (soccer) games, dance lessons, puppet shows, book readings, and live musical performances. There are beach program coordinators who help set up volleyball tournaments, “lifeguards” watching the children playing in the water fountains, and even daily spinning classes.

Buenos Aires Travel – Buenos Aires Playa – Photo by Gobierno de la Ciudad de Buenos Aires

The best part? Everything from entrance to all the activities are completely free of charge. This is a chance for the city’s residence, no matter what their income, to enjoy a family beach style vacation.

Couple Travel Tips

• Outside alcohol is not allowed into the playas. Sure, you might be able to sneak it in but this is a family oriented affair so it’s probably best to save the drinking for the “after party”.
• There is some security at the Playas but you should still watch your stuff closely. Just like at a real beach, it’s all too easy for someone to grab your camera or purse when you aren’t paying attention.
• If you have a bit more room in your travel budget and want a real beach there is no where better than Punta del Este. Called the “Beverly Hills of South America” this beach, located a short trip away in Uruguay has the best summer parties.

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Argentina Travel – Tucuman – Photo from Wikipedia

Located a very long bus or train ride north of Buenos Aires, the city of San Miguel de Tucumán, usually just called Tucumán is home to some of the countries most important historic places. Today the city is a working class one with only a handful of tourist sites and activities. It is often overlooked in favor of the province and city of Salta to the north.

Tucumán has a lot of offer though, if you are willing to look and spend a bit of time in the city.

Birthplace of Argentina’s Independence

Argentina Travel – Temple of St. Francis – Photo from Wikipedia

San Miguel de Tucumán was founded in 1565 by Spanish settlers and over the next 300 years it become an important capital in South America. The early city was plagued by raids and attacks by the native indian tribes and had to eventually be moved over 65 kilometers away from the original site to prevent the constant attacks. Today you can visit many important archaeological sites of these tribes and earlier Native American civilizations near Tucumán. The best sites are located in the nearby Choromoros and Calchaquies valleys.

Argentina Travel – Quilmes Ruins – Photo by kevin.j

San Miguel de Tucumán grew to be an important city, mainly because of its location along the major trading route coming from Peru. This route transported all the spoils of war from the Inca empire back to Spain via Tucumán and eventually the port of Buenos Aires. As the wealth and power of the city grew, locals started to talk of independence and on July 9th, 1816, the Congress of Tucumán officially declared independence from Spain. It would take a number of years before the rest of Argentina agreed and formed the country known today but it all started here.

Argentina Travel – Casa de la Independencia Tucuman – Photo from Wikipedia

Today you can visit the Historic “Casa de la Independencia” where the independence declaration was signed as well as museums like the Casa del Obispo Colombres and Museo Folclórico Manuel Belgrano which explore the early history and way of life in colonial Tucumán.

Beyond the Museums

Tucumán is a great destination for lovers of history but the city has plenty of other sites and activities if you get bored.

Argentina Travel – Tucuman Sweets – Photo by morrissey

On first glance, the food of Tucumán might seem ordinary and typical of Argentina but this region of the country is actually known as having some of the best empanadas in Argentina. There is even an official “Ruta de la Empanada Tucumana” in the city which provides a great map of some of the city’s best empanada shops and restaurants. Besides the empanadas, the local stews (try the locro) and the tamales are also world class. Did we mention that the major industry in the Tucumán region is sugarcane production? As such, Tucumán has plenty of unique and delicious sweets to sample as well.

Once you’ve had your fill of delicious food and candies, it is time to get out of the city. The providence of Tucumán is filled with gorgeous scenery, from deep canyons to the tall Nevados del Aconquija mountains. Nicknamed “The Garden of the Republic,” Tucumán has plenty of outdoor activities in varying ecosystems from jungle rain forests to snow capped peaks, all within a few hours drive of the city.

Argentina Travel – The Garden of the Republic – Photo by Kyle Taylor

Local companies offer mountain climbing trips, hiking tours, paragliding, and multi-day horseback riding treks. The trek to “La Ciudacita” ruins, the southernmost ruins of the Inca empire, takes up to 5 days but gives you the chance to see the providence of Tucumán’s true natural beauty.

Couple Travel Tips

• Traffic in the city of Tucumán can be horrible but if you are planning on spending some time in Northern Argentina, this is a great place to rent a car. You can drive all over the province and up to Salta on well, exploring the regions backcountry and wine region.
• Tucumán also has a great nightlife thanks to the city’s many universities. Most bars and clubs are opened Thursday through Sunday but remember that just like in Buenos Aires, the party often doesn’t start until after midnight.
• Tucumán was unfortunately a hotspot for the violence that occurred during Argentina’s 1976-83 dictatorship and in recent years there have been a number of important trials held in the city against high ranking war criminals. This dark period of Argentina’s history is often hidden from the view of tourists but if you have the chance while in Tucumán, I encourage you to learn more about it.

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Ecuador Travel – Santay Island Eco Village & Guayaquil in the Background – Photo from Presidencia de la República del Ecuador

Hundreds of thousands of visitors walk along the Guayaquil boardwalk each year. As Ecuador’s largest city, Guayaquil is often the gateway to the Galapagos for both local and foreign tourists. And yet, just across the river from this city lies another island, one completely forgotten.

Ecuador Travel – Guayaquil Malecon2000 Boardwalk – Photo from Wikipedia

The Forgotten Island

Santay Island is a huge, 2200 ha. island located in the middle of the Guayas River between the cities of Guayaquil and Duran. The island has been somehow preserved throughout the decades of urban growth and remains a natural sanctuary in the region.

The island is inhabited by a small number of people but the majority of the island is pristine nature. The island is often called the lungs of the city, an important filter of both cities’ smog. It is also an important home for the regions endangered birds and offers excellent bird watching. This, in fact, is about all the island was known for until recently and the only real visitors in the past were missionaries or serious bird enthusiasts.

Development

Ecuador Travel – Guayaquil with the Island in the Background – Photo from Wikipedia

For many, many years the Santay Island has been completely ignored by both the local and national governments. The island plays a crucial role in “filtering” the city smog and is one of the last real natural sanctuaries in the greater Guayaquil area and yet, it has been completely overlooked in terms of conversation until just a few years ago.

After issues between the local Duran government and the people on the island, the national government stepped in. The whole island was declared a National Protected Area and work began to both preserve and promote the island. Before the end of 2013, the island will be connected to the cities of Guayaquil and Duran by long bike and pedestrian friendly bridges. The island itself will offer bike paths, hiking trails, and overnight cabin accommodation to city residents looking to escape the city.

Ecuador Travel – The New Santay Island Bridge – Photo from the Presidencia de la República del Ecuador

The 47 families (around 200 people) currently who live on the island were considered more or a “problem” than anything. These people have been residents of the island for many, many years and while they have established their own village on the island, there right to the land was never official. The government wished to convert the island into a nature park for both Guayaquil and Duran residents but had to acknowledged the claims of the local people to the land, based on their long residency and their own conservation of the island. In the end an agreement was reached to build an “eco-village” and to provide each family on the island a new home, with running water and sewer.

In the end, over $25 million dollars will be invested on the island and the two bridges with the hope that the island will continue being an important natural reserve between the cities but also a great national park, enjoyed by both Guayaquil and Duran residents.

Ecuador Travel – Sprawling City of Guayaquil – Photo from Wikipedia

Couple Travel Tips

• If you are visiting before the bridges are completely finished, the only way to reach the island is by boat from Guayaquil or Duran. Ask for Discovery Cruises, which seems to be the only “tourist” option.
• No matter how you get to the island, respect the strength of the Guayas River. There have been many drowning accidents on the river and it is usually not worth saving a few dollars to hire one of the small canoes to take you across.
• Respect the Natural Reserve and don’t litter. This is a huge problem on the island, both with visitors and locals, since there is currently no garbage service to the island. Take all your trash back to the city with you.

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Colombia Travel – Cartagena – Photo by szeke

It is a small, almost insignificant looking error but for anyone who has traveled to Colombia or fell in love with this great country, it is like nails on a chalkboard.

Colombia is a country, Columbia is not. Colombia is home to some of the world’s best coffee, Columbia is a university back in the US. Colombia is located on the very northern tip of South America, British Columbia is way up in Canada.

For years and years this South American country has been getting misspelled by everyone from Starbucks (proudly selling coffee from Columbia… huh, where?) to international media sources (good job on the research guys!). But thanks to a social media campaign, launched earlier this year at Social Media Week in New York, the confusion and misspellings of this proud country will hopefully stop.

More Than a Misspelled Name

Colombia Travel – Bogota – Photo from Global Gastros

You might be thinking, what’s the big deal? It is just a simple spelling error. Sure, that’s true but for the people behind the “It’s Colombia, Not Columbia” campaign, that misspelling represents so much more.

Colombia has had it’s up and downs, like most countries in the world. It was once home to world famous drug lords and powerful rebel groups kidnapping international visitors on a regular basis. Most recently Colombia was in the news for the Secret Service prostitution scandal during the Summit of the Americas.

But what else do you know about Colombia? What else is there to this country? If you live in the US or Europe, let me tell you, your view of this country is highly skewed by the media. Sure, the Hollywood film Colombiana highlighted the power of drugs and corruption but did you know Colombia actually exports 60% of the world’s emeralds as well? Or how about the fact that is grows and exports nearly every flower sold in the US. Your wedding centerpiece probably came from Colombia.

Colombia Travel – Tayrona National Park – Photo by szeke

Oh, and the dangerous world of drug lords and rebels who will kidnap you in an instant… yeah, that doesn’t happen nearly as often as the media lets you think. Colombia is actually one of the safer countries in Latin America and incredible safe for the average tourist. The rebels are still around but are more interested in peace talks with the government than bothering visiting foreigners.

The country is not perfect, no, but it definitely doesn’t deserve the reputation it has in the world. The “It’s Colombia, Not Columbia” campaign is about asking people to take a second look at the country that is more than deserving of that small request.

Have you been to Colombia? What was your experience there? Did you feel safe or did it seem like a dangerous place?

Colombia Travel – Colombian Dancers

Couple Travel Tips

• Don’t add to the negative statistics. Be sure you follow basic safety advice (i.e. not walking alone at night) and you should be fine.
• Please do not come to Colombia just to buy drugs. This is the #1 reason Colombia has a bad reputation and the #1 way to get yourself in a dangerous situation.
• If you have visited Colombia, tell people what you saw. The only way to combat the overwhelming number of negative news reports is to share positive stories of your travels in Colombia.

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Colombia Travel – San Agustín Statute – Photo by Mario Carvajal

San Agustín is a small, rather unremarkable or unique town in the south of Colombia. It would be overlooked completely by passing tourists if not for the amazing archaeological sites that surround it. San Agustín is at the heart of a massive archaeological park that spans over 250 square miles and is home to some of the most impressive pre-columbian statues in South America.

These statues, along with the tombs and other archaeological sites that surround them, offer visitors a chance to see the power of this ancient and mysterious culture. Who built these statues and why is still a puzzle and it is estimated that less than half of the pre-columbian sites have been excavated.

UNESCO World Heritage Site

There are literally hundreds of statues, tombs, and rock carvings to see in and around San Agustín. Your best bet is to plan at least a full two days to see the major sites.

Colombia Travel – San Agustín Statute – Photo by megavas

The main archaeological park, which has a small entrance fee, is the most popular stop. There are a number of burial sites and tombs, along with plenty of statues. There is also a museum that gives a basic overview of the history of the ancient pre-columbian culture that built these sites. The culture is a bit of a mystery and was long gone by the time the Spanish arrived. Most of the statues and larger tombs were built by this culture between the 1st and 8th century.

Colombia Travel – San Agustín Statutes – Photo from Wikipedia

Also in the park is La Fuente de Lavapatas, an impressive water sculpture and fountain that consists of a maze of canals, pools, and carved images which the water flows through. The engineering of the structure and the high level of skill it took to make shows that this ancient culture was quite advanced.

Colombia Travel – La Fuente de Lavapatas – Photo by Mario Carvajal

Besides the main Parque Arqueologico, you should also try and visit the smaller park of Alto de Los Idoles. There is another small entrance fee but this park has some unique artifacts and great views.

Four other smaller sites all site within walking distance of each other – El Tablon, La Chaquira, La Pelota, and El Purutal. Obando, located further from town is famous for underground tombs and also has a small museum with some great examples of the ancient cultures pottery.

Hike, Horse Riding, or Jeep Tours

Colombia Travel – San Agustín Statute – Photo from Wikipedia

In 1995, after the whole area was declared a World Heritage Site, there was a significant boost of tourism to the small town of San Agustín. Tour companies and hostels started to open, offering guides and unique opportunities to visit the sites.

Today you can book both jeep and horseback riding tours which allow you to see the most number of sites in one day. That being said, hiking is still considered one of the best ways to both visit the sites and enjoy the beautiful local countryside. A great hiking option is to take the early morning bus (carro) to Obando and walk back towards San Agustín, stopping to visit El Estrecho. The hike takes approximately five hours but if you get tired, you can usually stop a bus on the main road and get a ride back to town.

Couple Travel Tips

• Your guidebook might mention that this region is home to rebels and guerrilla but the area is actually quite safe now-a-days. That being said, it’s best to avoid night travel and of course don’t hike alone.
• Respect the heritage of the site and don’t climb on or damage the stones. Many of the archaeological sites in this region have already been damaged by looters and treasure hunters. Don’t add to the problem.
• Make sure you bring some extra cash as there are only a few ATMs in town and they occasionally run out of money, especially during the holidays when more people are visiting.

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South America Travelers in Bolivia

This is in no way a complete list nor is it meant to criticize any type of traveler. It is simply a quick review of some of the many travelers I have encountered on my nearly 3 year long journey traveling and living in South America.

The “Local”

South America Traveler – “Local” Beach Bum? – Photo by holia

These travelers can be found all over South America but seem to be most prevalent in beachy, tourist towns or big cities. They have settled down to live in South America long term, though you’ll occasionally find some claiming the title of expat or “practically a local” after little more than a month or so in one spot. They fund their long-term expat lifestyle in a number of ways, from English teaching to internet businesses. Some are just lucky trust fund babies while others are on long-term volunteer gigs.

On the positive side, this type of traveler knows plenty of good, local hangouts and can usually give you seriously valuable tips on what to see/miss. On the negative side, they have likely already “seen and done it all” so if you are interested in actually visiting a few of the local sites, don’t hang out with them too long.

The Tour Group Traveler

Machu Picchu Tour Group Travelers

This type of traveler, usually found as part of a group tour to Machu Picchu or occasionally to Buenos Aires, feels quite proud of themselves for making it to South America. They have likely planned this trip for years and have everything mapped out for them on their 5-7 day tour. If you are a typical backpacker traveler, you probably won’t ever meet the Tour Group Traveler as they stay in the nice hotels and are carefully herded around by guides.

These travelers might know everything there is to know about Machu Picchu/Tango in Buenos Aires/The Galapagos Islands (or wherever else they happen to be touring) but outside of their well mapped itinerary, South America is a bit of a mystery. They are a nice group overall though and usually eager to hear stories about more “off the beaten path” places if you happen to run into them “after touring hours.”

The Scheduled Traveler

Scheduled Travelers Always Have the Best Guidebooks – Photo by Jaymis

This traveler is trying to do it all, see it all, experience it all… with a very short deadline. They are most often students on summer break or someone who has been saving up vacation days for years. They have a plane ticket home and know exactly how many days, and even hours, they have until then.

These travelers can be the most difficult to travel with simply because they are traveling at a breakneck speed and have very little room for flexibility. That being said, if you are in a hurry to get someplace or only have a few hours in a new city, they are the best people to ask for advice. They know the quickest bus routes in every country, the most recommended sites in every city, and usually have a guide book packed with additional notes, tips, and advice.

The Top to Bottom Traveler

These travelers also come in the Bottom to Top variety but either way, they are planning to see South America in all her glory. From the tip of Patagonia to the Colombian coast, these travelers usually (hopefully!) have at least a few months to their trip and are much more relaxed than the Scheduled Traveler. They sometimes can be found doing epic road trips along the Pan American Highway on bikes, motorcycles, in cars, or occasionally hitchhiking.

For the best travel tips and advice, find one of these travelers going in the opposite direction of you. Sure, you can get your travel tips from a guide book or from an internet forum from someone who went “last year” but for up to date facts, the “Top to Bottom Traveler” is your best bet. Fair warning though, this type of traveler is also more prone to “my trip is more amazing than your trip” bragging than other traveler types.

The Party Animal

South America Traveler – Colombia Hostel Party

You are traveling the world, free from work, a career, family, and all other responsibility. Of course you are going to celebrate but please avoid turning into a full out Party Animal Traveler. You do want to remember this trip right? Well constantly being drunk, high, or hung over isn’t going to help any.

These travelers are almost always spotted on a beach partying (the beach bum variety) or stumbling home after an all night party. They can be great fun and if it is your birthday or you have reason to celebrate, find a few of these travelers before you head out. I’m sure they will make your night more interesting. That being said, this type of traveler is also more likely to get themselves into a less than pleasant situation.

Couple Travel Tips

• Try not to fall into another of the traveler categories – The Drama Couple. It can be hard to travel as a couple but if you and your partner are fighting, please don’t drag the rest of the hostel or your travel group into the drama.
• Before writing off a certain category of traveler, spend a bit of time with them and you’ll realize even the most annoying travelers sometimes have a few good qualities… or if not will at least give you a few good stories for later.

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Venezuela Travel – Los Roques – Photo from Wikipedia

Venezuela can be a very overwhelming place to visit. The country is unlike any other and has plenty of unique issues and security concerns. For many people visiting, their first taste of the country is the capital city of Caracas. Caracas is huge and dangerous and if this is the only part of Venezuela you see, you are really missing out.

This turbulent country has some of the most beautiful sights in the world, from the great Angel Falls to picture perfect Caribbean beaches. Thankfully, one of these Venezuelan paradises is a short 40 minute flight outside of Caracas.

Archipelago de Los Roques

A flight from Caracas to the Gran Roques airport will only take 40 minutes and you will land in paradise. The national park consists of a chain of islands and coral reefs that span over 225,000 hectares, making it one of the largest marine park in the Caribbean Sea. Formed in 1972, the area protects a large marine ecosystem consisting of not only islands and coral reefs but also mangrove swamps and lagoons.

Venezuela Travel – Los Roques National Park – Photo by Erik Cleves Kristensen

As a Natural Park, the island development is strictly controlled. There are no mega resort complexes here but rather small, island inns and bed and breakfast type hotels.

The main island of Gran Roque has nearly all of the development with a handful of hotels, villas, and restaurants. The islands are never very crowded and are sometimes practically empty, giving you the sense of being alone on your own private island.

Venezuela Travel – Town of Gran Roque – Photo by Marcio Cabral de Moura

Even on the main island, transportation is solely by foot. There are no vehicles on the islands, and no need for them, thanks to the small size.

What to Do

Venezuela Travel – Los Roques – Photo from Wikitravel

The main appeal of the islands is how relaxing and deserted they are. If you are looking to do more than lay on a beach though, there are still a few activities to check out.

Sail around the islands, or even back to Caracas with one of the local companies offering everything from basic boats to luxury yachts. This is a great way to see the islands as you will have complete privacy.

If you are staying at one of the island hotels, they can also arrange a boat for you to visit the various islands or to do some fishing. The boat owners also usually know the best snorkeling spots.

There are a number of companies on Gran Roque that can organize diving trips for you and your group with courses ranging from beginner to advanced dives. For a bit more adrenaline, there are also opportunities to sign up for windsurfing lessons.

If you go snorkeling or diving, you might get lucky and see one of the islands many resident sea turtles. If not, head over to the Turtle Sanctuary where you can learn more about the local organization that works to protect the turtles and increase their numbers.

Venezuela Travel – Turtle Sanctuary – Photo by Marcio Cabral de Moura

Couple Travel Tips

• Most people reach the islands by plane and while it is a short trip from Caracas, be sure you choose the right airline. Many use old, poorly maintained planes. Locals suggest Aerotuy, which is reportedly the safest.
• Be aware that there is a entry fee for the National Park, which can be paid upon arriving on Gran Roque. Foreigners pay double what Venezuelans pay and the current price is just over 150 Bolivars for foreign visitors.
• If you are worried about the crime rates in Venezuela, then this really will be paradise as crime in the archipelago is practically nonexistent. The biggest crime is probably no more than overcharging the tourists.

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Mexico Travel – Traditional Mexican Dance Performance for Cinco de Mayo in the US – Photo by maveric2003

Sorry, I know the title of this article says “Mexico Travel” but if you are looking for a Cinco de Mayo celebration, you’re probably better off heading to the United States. This Mexican holiday celebrates one of the major battles of Mexico’s early independence and yet it has come to represent Mexican-American heritage more than anything. If you are planning on heading to Mexico for an authentic Cinco de Mayo celebration… I’m afraid you are going to be seriously disappointed.

History of Cinco de Mayo

Mexico Travel – Battle of Puebla – Photo from Wikipedia

The story behind Cinco de Mayo is pretty simple. The holiday celebrates the Mexican army’s victory over the invading French army on May 5, 1862 in the state of Puebla. The Mexican army was completely outnumbered with much less experienced than the huge invading French army. Despite that, and thanks to a surprise attack, the Mexican army was able to defeat the French army who retreated after losing over 500 men.

While the battle was important, the truth is that Cinco de Mayo is a small, insignificant holiday in most of Mexico. It is not even a national holiday, is only really celebrated in one state, and despite the rumors you might here at Cinco de Mayo celebrations in the US, the holiday is not Mexico’s Independence Day.

The truth is that Cinco de Mayo had potentially more significance in the United States than it did in Mexico. The Cinco de Mayo battle happened at the same time as the US Civil War and the invading French army was very pro-Confederate. There were rumors that if the French were able to completely control Mexico, they would use that advantage to help the South win the US Civil War and create a combined slave-owning territory from Florida all the way down to Mexico City. When the French lost that important battle, it gave Mexican-Americans in the US, who were very pro-Union and fought for the Union army, the hope that not only had the Mexican army helped save Mexico but also helped keep the French out of the US Civil War.

Mexico Celebration vs. USA Celebration

Mexico Travel – 5 de Mayo Blvd. in Puebla, Mexico – Photo by ewen and donabel

If you do find yourself in Mexico at the beginning of May, you are not completely out of luck. The small state of Puebla, where the famous battle took place holds an annual celebration of the victory. This is pretty much the ONLY place in Mexico to really celebrate the holiday but it is definitely not the same type of celebration you see back in the United States.

The Puebla, Mexico celebration lasts a full month leading up to the event. There are parades throughout the state, music and dance performances, and even live reenactments of the battle. The Puebla State Fair takes place in late April and early May as well and is usually tied into the Cinco de Mayo celebration with special events and performances on the fairgrounds.

In contrast, in the United States, Cinco de Mayo celebrations can be found all over the country, even in communities with zero ties to Mexico. The rebirth of the holiday in America was tied to a number of events, from the early immigration of Mexicans after the Mexican Civil War to the Chicano movement of the 1960 and 1970s to more recently with the holiday being exploited by everyone from beer companies to fast food companies to boost sales among Mexican-American customers.

Mexico Travel – Cinco de Mayo Advertisements in the US – Photo by 4alarmstudio

Despite the commercialization of the holiday, for many Mexican-Americans in the United States, Cinco de Mayo is an important holiday that connects them to their Mexican heritage. In the same way Irish-Americans celebrate St. Patrick’s Day, Mexican-Americans use the Cinco de Mayo celebration to remember their roots and also to remember the historic significance Mexican-Americans have played in the US from the Civil War to today.

Mexico Travel – Cinco de Mayo at the White House – Photo from Wikipedia

Couple Travel Tips

• If you are in Mexico but hoping for a US style Cinco de Mayo celebration your best bet is to head to Cancun or another tourist hotspot where you will still be able to find the “endless tequila shots” type of party.
• In Puebla, the Cinco de Mayo celebration includes a large parade along 5 de Mayo Blvd that features local dance schools, marching bands, and decorated floats. The parade route fills up quickly so if you want a good view, come early.
• If you want to really experience the way Mexico celebrates independence and victory, visit for Diez y Seis, the National Independence Day celebration that takes place mid-September.

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Colombia Travel – Barranquilla – Photo from Wikipedia

Most backpackers come to Barranquilla for the annual Carnival. Well, actually most backpackers don’t come to the city at all. Sandwiched between the much more popular walled city of Cartagena and the Santa Marta/Taganga area, Barranquilla is usually at most a bus stop when traveling between the two.

Barranquilla might not attract the tourists but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t thrive. As one of the largest cities in Colombia and the most important port in the country, Barranquilla holds a good deal of power and influence. Most travelers to the city are actually coming on business trips and the city is home to many international companies.

Colombia Travel – Barranquilla – Photo from Wikipedia

The city is also known for being one of the most diverse cities in Colombia thanks to an influx of immigrants after World War I and World War II. It’s not often that you can say you ate authentic Lebanese food in the middle of Colombia but thanks to the large Middle Eastern community (who immigrated after WW II) you can easily find authentic Syrian-Lebanese food along with your typical Colombian arepa.

Colombia Travel – Barranquilla Carnival – Photo by Ashley Bayles

Barranquilla Carnival

The one time per year that Barranquilla does become the hot spot of Colombia is during the annual Carnival. Held the week before Ash Wednesday, the Carnival has been named one of the best in the world (right after Rio) and called a “World Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity” by UNESCO.

The city floods with visitors and every hotel and hostel room is booked weeks to months in advance. The party is none stop for over 4 days and includes a unique mix of European, African, and Native Indian influences.

Beyond Carnival

If you miss the Barranquilla Carnival, you might be tempted to skip the city on your visit to Colombia. It’s true the party is the real highlight of the city but it’s not all the city has to offer.

This is the birthplace of Shakira and if you love dancing, especially the hot dance moves of the Caribbean, this is your city. The nightlife is awesome, from high end nightclubs to corner bars. One minute you’d think you were in a South Beach, Miami club, the next you are out of the streets still dancing and taking shots of the “burning water” – Aguardiente.

If you are a soccer, I mean football, fan Barranquilla is also home to the Estadio Metropolitano Roberto Meléndez. The stadium is the biggest in the country and where the national team of Colombia plays. Ask around to see if there is a game while you are there and your hostel or hotel should be able to direct you on how to purchase legitimate tickets.

Colombia Travel – Estadio Roberto Melendez – Photo from Wikipedia

If you are more interested in relaxed sightseeing, Barranquilla also has a number of nice museums, great art-deco architecture, and river tours down to the mouth of the Magdalena river and the Caribbean Sea. The gold museum isn’t as good as the one in Bogota but the Museo del Caribe has a lot of unique displays featuring the history of the settlement of Colombia.

Colombia Travel – Barranquilla – Photo from Wikipedia

Couple Travel Tips

• Barranquilla crime rates continue to drop but there are still many neighborhoods in the city that you should avoid. Stick to the northern area of the city, don’t go out by yourself late at night, and you should be fine.
• If you run into any problems while traveling on the Colombian coast, most of the embassies in Bogota also have consulate offices in Barranquilla where you can report stolen passports or other travel issues.
• For anyone planning to enjoy a football match, be aware that the crowds at the national stadium can sometimes get quite rowdy. It’s best to wear the local teams colors and you might want to leave a bit before the crowds to avoid a sometimes dangerously charged atmosphere (whether they win or lose).

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Mexico Travel – Mexico City – Photo by Eneas

I had been to Mexico a bunch as a kid but never very far south of the US border as we always visited by car. When it came time to book my plane ticket to South America, I quickly discovered some of the best priced flights passed through Mexico City and many of the cheapest tickets included ridiculously long 10+ hour layovers.

For the normal business traveler or packed tourists, that kind of layover is dreaded but for me, it was the perfect chance to finally see Mexico City. I flew in early in the morning and was able to see quite a few things in the city, eat amazing food, and make it back to the airport without much hassle and without speaking much Spanish.

Getting into the City

The first step is figuring out how to get into the city. Thankfully the international airport in Mexico City is very well designed and connected to the center of the city by both a bus and subway system.

To take the subway, a cheap option but it can sometimes get very crowded, head out of the international terminal and to the left. The airport metro station runs right to the airport and you can take the train to the center but you’ll need to change lines once. You can also take a bus from right outside the airport but traffic in Mexico City can be horrible and it might take a bit longer than the subway. If you’d prefer, there are also pre-paid taxis at the airport as well. You pay before you leave so there is no risk of being overcharged.

As a side note, if you need to store luggage before heading into the city, there are lockers available in Lounge A.

Zócalo

Mexico Travel – Zocalo – Photo by Ari Helminen

The best place to head for a short day long layover is the main plaza of Mexico City – Zocalo. The metro will drop you off right at the northeast corner of the plaza. This plaza is huge, one of the biggest in the world, and the very heart of the city. It has been a gathering point in the city since the rule of the Aztec. Around the plaza sit a number of places worth visiting – the Cathedral on the north side, the National Palace on the east, and the Templo Mayor on the northeast corner.

In the center of the Plaza flies the Mexican flag and there are often times events or even protests in the plaza. It is a great place to wander, grab a nice cafe breakfast, and people watch.

Museo del Templo Mayor

Mexico Travel – Museo del Templo Mayor – Photo from Wikipedia

Since you are already in the plaza, head over of the Museo del Templo Mayor, one of the best and biggest museums in Mexico City. It has a nice combination of outdoor and indoor exhibits which will hopefully be a good thing if you’re visiting on a nice, clear day. The museum tells the history of Mexico from the very early tribes to the rise of the great Aztec empire and the eventual conquest by the Spanish.

There are thousands of things to see and you can easily spend most of your day in the museum if you are a history fan. The museum is free on Sundays and around 60 pesos every other day.

San Jacinto Plaza

Mexico Travel -Handicrafts in San Jacinto – Photo from Wikipedia

If you’d like to pick up some souvenirs on your short visit, there is no place better to head than the San Jacinto Plaza in the San Angel neighborhood. Here is one of the cities best craft markets with beautiful and well made crafts and traditionally made art. You won’t find nearly as much of the touristy knick nacks as you would in the main city plaza.

This is also nice residential neighborhood and after you browse the market, hang out for a bit longer to just watch people going about their day. There are a number of restaurants and cafes around the park with outdoor seating.

Find Some Mexican Food!

Mexico Travel – Mexico City Tacos – Photo by Ari Helminen

Of course you can’t visit Mexico and not have some authentic Mexican food. Get ready of spicy, deliciousness! Trust me, if you are heading anywhere in South America besides Peru, you’ll be happy you indulged in the chilies before you got back on your plane.

There are plenty of cafes and restaurants around both plazas but I’d suggest trying some street food as well. Grab a taco or a tamale and make sure you order a drink as well; the spicy goodness will make you wish you had.

Couple Travel Tips

• You don’t want to be robbed on a layover. Imagine the headache of trying to replace a passport, credit card, or file a police report and having a flight your going to miss. That being said, Mexico City does have a lot of petty crime and you’ll need to be extra vigilant.
• If you have a sensitive stomach, you might want to skip the spicy food and opt for something like a Mexican hot chocolate instead. Remember that you will be stuck on a plane again in a few hours.
• Traffic can get ridiculous during rush hour in the city and if you don’t want to miss your flight, be sure you give yourself plenty of buffer time between leaving the city and needed to be back to the airport.

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Pto Vallarta Mexico by Melissa Wentarmini, on Flickr

Expanding on our Mexico travel information, we highlight a travel photo of Puerto Vallarta, one of the most popular tourist destinations for holidays in Mexico.  Located on the Pacific coast of Mexico, Puerto Vallarta is easily accessible for West Coast Americans and Canadians, although also frequented by Mexicans during their holidays.  It is also known as the most LGBT friendly community in Mexico.

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Costa Rica Travel – Montezuma – Photo by C o r i n n e

Everyone has their own version of paradise. Mine must include a beach, great weather, yummy tropical fruits, and a great community of open minded free spirited people like myself. I have found a few places that get close to my perfect paradise while traveling and Montezuma in Costa Rica is definitely near the top of the list.

Costa Rica Travel – Montezuma – Photo by davebrenner

Located on the Pacific coast of Costa Rica, Montezuma is a small town with a big heart. It began as a small fishing village but has turned itself into a paradise of great food, awesome beachside accommodations, and all with a fun, youthful vibe. It has been passed over by the larger Costa Rica tourism developments and still has a uniquely local feel. That being said, Montezuma is incredibly diverse with a nice mix of local Costa Ricans, travelers from every corner of the globe, and plenty of foreigners who fell in love with the place and never left.

For the Beach Lovers

Costa Rica Travel – Montezuma – Photo by Christian Haugen

If your idea of paradise is nice peaceful beaches, surfing, and gorgeous coastlines, Montezuma has it all. The most popular beach, Playa Grande is a great place to just sit back and sunbath. It is a little north of the town center but easy to walk to. Playa Las Manchas is another great beach, a good place for snorkeling, and just about a 15 minute walk south of town. The tide pools at Playa Rocas are pretty cool as well.

Playa Montezuma in town is a bit polluted and mainly used for the fishing boats. Further outside of town, at Playa Cocolito you can sign up for horseback riding on the beach or check out the famous and beautiful El Chorro waterfall as it pours into the sea.

Along the beaches you will find great little bars and restaurants with the freshest seafood imaginable. You can also rent surfboards, book tours to more distant beaches, and sign up for scuba diving lessons. There are a number of surf camps that can teach you the basics but experienced surfers usually head to Playa Los Cedros which has some of the best swells.

For the Eco Traveler

Costa Rica Travel – Montezuma – Photo by Christian Haugen

Montezuma has more than great beaches though. The nearby Cabo Blanco Nature Preserve attracts eco-travelers and nature lovers year round. You can hike around the jungle, swim in the parks crystal clear rivers, and check out popular local spots like the nearby waterfalls.

Costa Rica Travel – Montezuma – Photo from Wikipedia

There are plenty of eco-friendly options when it comes to accommodation and in town there are an unusually high number of vegetarian restaurants for such a small community. People come here to relax and to connect with nature through nature hikes, yoga retreats, and spiritual retreats. That being said, there is still a lively and fun nightlife scene when the small town’s bars and restaurants come to life with the beats of all the best latin music.

Couple Travel Tips

• If you go surfing, watch out for the rip tide currents which can be really strong and dangerous, especially for anyone just learning to surf.
• Make sure you bring enough money for at least a few days of fun. There is only one ATM in town and it is doesn’t work or is out of money half the time.
• Stick around for the Saturday farmers market. This is when you can really see the eco, laid back lifestyle of the local population with organic produce, handicrafts, and musicians playing for tips.

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Latin America Travel – Tap Water – Photo by Diganta Talukdar

Oh, the dreaded Montezuma’s Revenge… if you’ve been traveling anywhere in Latin America you have probably heard of it, or worse had it, and if you’re still planning your trip, you definitely need to prepare for it.

Montezuma’s Revenge, also known as Delhi Belly or Mummy’s Tummy or plain old traveler’s diarrhea (TD), has to be right up there at the top of the list of worst travel experiences. Studies estimate that 20-50% of international travelers come down with it every year. While caused by a number of pathogens, the most common cause is ingesting contaminated water or food that has been cooked or washed with contaminated water.

Buying Bottled Water

Latin America Travel – Bottled Water Pollution – Photo by epSos.de

One of the biggest suggestions on how to avoid getting TD is to avoid drinking the tap water when traveling anywhere in Latin America. The solution – buying bottled water.

This might be the “solution” suggested by your doctor and family back home but I want you to consider for a minute the impact of that bottled water and the bigger picture. First of all, if the water in the country you are visiting is not safe to drink, the community probably doesn’t have a very developed waste management system either. Where is your bottle going to end up? Polluting the already polluted waters of the country in many cases. Before you add trash to a system already not designed well to handle it, I want to recommend a few alternatives.

Latin America Travel – Bottled Water Pollution – Photo by Horia Varlan

First of all, be 100% sure bottled water is really the solution. News flash – most of the major cities in South America have completely safe tap water. The bottled water you are buying is probably no more than slightly filtered tap water. Watch the locals, not the super wealthy but the middle class. Are they buying all their water? Are the supermarkets filled with water jugs, cheaply priced for locals or is the bottled water hidden in the back and featuring a high (priced for tourists) price?

If the tap water really isn’t safe, before buying bottled water, consider boiling your own. Most hostels have a kitchen and if you are planning on making dinner in the hostel kitchen, it will only take an extra second or two to fill a pot with water and put it on the back burner. Boiling tap water will make it safe and if you bring along a refillable water bottle, you will not only be saving money (bottled water purchases can add up quickly) but you can also feel good about protecting the local environment.

If all else fails and you must buy water, look for the ever popular bagged water. Sold in bags, sized for individual use or enough to last you a couple of days, this water is just as good and you won’t be producing as much trash.

Latin America Travel – Boys Sharing Bag of Water – Photo by ccarlstead

Couple Travel Tips

• If you do get sick, reschedule travel plans, especially bus trips until you are feeling better. There is nothing worse than being stuck on a bus when you are suffering the full wrath of Montezuma’s Revenge.
• The second most common suggestion for avoiding traveler’s diarrhea – only eating at restaurants that cater to tourists and never eating at food stands. This has to be the worst piece of advice ever given to a traveler. Ignore it, eat the street food, but just be smart about it and only buy items that are/were fully cooked.
• Studies have shown that it can take up to 7 years before people gain full immunity to a contaminated water source. Your best bet is to ask local expats (who have living in the country less than 7 years) if the water is safe or if it makes them sick.

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Colombia Travel – Suesca Rock Climbing – Photo by Yassef

Colombia has its own growing tourist and travel scene. People from the capital city of Bogota love to take time off of work and explore their own country. Luckily, vacation time in Colombia is plentiful and many people from the city take up weekend activities in the countryside. Whether hiking or mountain biking, fishing or horseback riding, the countryside outside of Bogota offers something for everyone.

A very popular hobby among young people from Bogota is rock climbing and there in no better place to climb close to Bogota than Suesca.

Colombia Travel – Suesca – Photo from Wikipedia

Located less than 2 hours from the city, Suesca is a small town of about 15,000. It is surrounded by Colombia’s dairy land and plenty of flower plantations but what it is actually known for is rock climbing.

Rock Climbing

Colombia Travel – Rocas de Suesca – Photo by Yassef

Suesca is said to be the birthplace of rock climbing in Colombia. Years ago, young people from Bogota came out this way to escape the city, camp, and enjoy nature. Soon enough, the Rocas de Suesca area was found. Located just outside of town, the Rocas de Suesca is a large 4 km long area of natural cliffs that runs along the railroad tracks. There are over a hundred climbing routes, varying in style and difficulty.

This is not a “tourist” activity and most climbers come with their own gear. You might have difficulty renting gear yourself but there are a few companies in Bogota that arrange trips out to Rocas de Suesca.

If you are visiting on a weekend and find the wall a bit too crowded, hike out to Valle de Halcones. Located about a 40 minute walk from the Rocas, Valle de Halcones is a second climbing area with incredible views. It is a located on private property though and the owner is not always willing to have climbers on his land. You might be politely asked to leave.

Spending the Night

Colombia Travel – Suesca – Photo by leopineda

Suesca is well off the backpacker trail. There are no real hostels or none that stick around for long and most people visiting (local Colombians from Bogota, rarely foreign tourists) end up camping.

There are designated camping sites near the Rocas de Suesca climbing wall or if you walk back into town, you should be able to find a few small, family-run hotels.

The best time to visit is on the weekends. The climbing wall might be a bit more crowded but at night all the climbers camp close together and it turns into a great little party. Colombians are incredibly friendly and if you speak a bit of Spanish, you will no doubt be invited to join in.

Colombia Travel – Suesca Locals – Photo by Luis Perez

Couple Travel Tips

• Stay in the designated camping areas near Rocas de Suesca. This area of Colombia is very safe but if you wander off too far you might end up camping on private land and run into problems with the owner.
• If you are lucky, you’ll end up visiting in the dry months (winter and spring). Come summer time (June) this area is hit by the rainy season and occasionally the route to the climbing wall and the camping areas get flooded out.
• If you stay more than a night or two, consider skipping the wall one day and renting a mountain bike into town. There are some great trails in the area and the scenery will blow you away.

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Colombia Travel – Quindío – Photo by joshuaheller

Colombia’s coffee region is one of the most popular places for foreign tourists visiting the country. The paisa, a nickname for people from this region, are said to be some of the most friendly and welcoming people in all of Colombia. They open their doors to outsiders, giving an intimate look into the region’s coffee farms, history, and unique environment.

The coffee “triangle” encompasses a number of small towns and cities spread out over 3 Colombian states or departments. At the center of this region, sitting comfortably between Colombia’s 3 major cities (Bogota, Medellin, and Cali) is the small city of Armenia, capital of Quindío. This city is often overlooked by travelers despite it being the jumping off point for most of the coffee region’s greatest highlights.

The Earthquake of 1999

Colombia Travel – City of Armenia – Photo from Wikitravel

Armenia is not a pretty city. It doesn’t have the gorgeous colonial buildings of Bogota’s La Candelaria district nor does it have the nightlife of Cali. The “touristy” sites of the city can be counted on one hand and hostels are a rare site. Despite that, Armenia sees thousands of travelers passing through each year. Sadly, many are doing just that – passing through.

A likely reason for travelers skipping the city, or only staying long enough to catch the next bus, has to do with the devastating earthquake of 1999. Armenia was founded in 1889 and was an important city for both travelers and for merchants transporting coffee, plantains, and bananas to the country’s major cities. It was a city with history and beauty. That all changed in 1999.

On Monday, January 25, 1999 Armenia and the greater Quindío state was hit by a 5.9 earthquake. While not as strong as other earthquakes seen in the region, this earthquake was centered almost right under Armenia. The location and strength of the quake, combined with the rather weak construction methods of the city’s old buildings, caused incredible destruction. Over a thousand people were killed, 50% of the city’s population displaced, and close to a quarter of the city destroyed. The historical sites of Armenia crumbled in an instant.

Colombia Travel – City of Armenia – Photo from Wikipedia

Despite the city of Armenia literally crumbling down less than 20 years ago, it is now once again a center of commerce and trade in Colombia’s coffee region. Nicknamed the “Miracle City,” Armenia has grown more powerful out of its ashes. The city is now the gateway for thousands of tourists each year looking to visit the sites of Quindío.

Salento & the Cocora Valley

Colombia Travel – Quindío Region – Photo by Héctor Herrera

This picturesque small town has held on to its traditions and is the perfect place to see traditional paisa living. From its small town pace to the famous fresh water trout served in just about every home and restaurant, Salento is the coffee region’s little piece of paradise. It is also the starting point for visits to the Cocora Valley, where you can see Colombia’s famous wax palm trees and can be reached by daily buses from Armenia.

Los Nevados National Park

The northern region of Quindío, and another short bus ride from Armenia, holds central Colombia’s highest peaks and one of the country’s best national parks. Here you can truly hike into the heart of Colombia and up into snow capped mountains. The Nevado del Ruiz volcano dominates the area but there are another half dozen volcanoes to visit as well.

Eco-Lodges and Coffee Farms

Colombia Travel – Colombia’s Coffee Region – Photo from Wikipedia

For anyone looking for a more relaxing vacation, Armenia is also the gateway to the country’s most popular eco-lodge region. In recent years, as the price of coffee has fluctuated, traditional coffee farms have opened their doors to visitors. Both small coffee fincas (farms) and larger family haciendas have set up bed and breakfast type arrangements where you can literally have your morning coffee while overlooking the fields where your beans were picked.

Couple Travel Tips

• Armenia seems to get overlooked by the big guidebook companies so don’t expect an updated chapter on the city. There aren’t many hostels in Armenia and the ones listed in the guidebooks are usually not very good or closed.
• Everyone is in such a hurry to get out of town but Armenia does have a few interesting sights itself. The local Gold Museum is a great place to learn more about the native people of this region and has surprisingly good artifacts (most regions sent the best stuff to the national museum in Bogota).
• Booking a romantic getaway with your partner on one of the small, coffee farms? If you’re not married, you might want to pretend you are. This is a very conservative and traditional area of Colombia and many of the eco-lodges are run by the grandmothers of the family.

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Colombia Travel – Islas del Rosario – Photo by Ben Bowes

When people imagine Caribbean paradise it always seems to include a nice white beach, doesn’t it? For me, Caribbean paradise is not so much a beach but a rocky little island surrounded by coral and the cleanest turquoise colored water. In Colombia, that place is the Rosario Islands.

Located about an hour or so from the historical city of Cartagena, the Rosario Islands consist of over 40 islands all protected as a National Park since 1977. Before 1977, local families from Cartagena used the islands to build vacation homes and the government allowed them to retain rights to these homes as long as they pay a yearly “rent” and obey certain conservation rules to protect the environment of the islands.

Colombia Travel – Islas del Rosario – Photo by Mario Carvajal

You can visit the islands on day trips from Cartagena or as part of a scuba diving course. While there are many small private islands, the two largest islands of the group offer activities beyond the water.

Isla Rosario

Most tours make a brief stop on the Isla Rosario to visit the Oceanario Aquarium. Travelers give this aquarium far from rave reviews and the entrance price is almost never included in your tour so be prepared. The aquarium is small and geared towards conversation rather than entertainment. There is a small dolphin show though.

Isla Grande

Colombia Travel – Isla Grande – Photo by Mario Carvajal

This is my favorite island of the bunch. As the name implies, this is the largest of the Rosario Islands and it is one of the few islands with full-time, local residents. The island is avoided by most tours and the majority of the island’s shoreline is covered with private homes and hotels. The interior of the island is a great place to wander around and has a few small communities where the workers who care for the vacation homes live with their families. There is also a great private bird sanctuary on the island that almost no tourists visit, despite it being free.

Skipping the Tour

Colombia Travel – Rosario Islands – Photo by Luz Adriana Villa A.

Most people get to the Rosario Islands as part of a tour from Cartagena. The tours cost $20-30 per person and include a very short trip to the islands, a quick chance to snorkel, and a less than amazing stop at the Oceanario Aquarium. Most of your time on the day tour is actually spent getting here or at the nearby Playa Blanca which is also on an island but not really considered part of the Rosario Islands by most locals.

Instead of going the tour route, give yourself a chance to really experience the islands. There are a number of great and affordable hotels on the islands which often include transportation as part of your stay. You will probably end up on a small, cramped speedboat but the trip will be direct and much quicker than the tourist boats.

Colombia Travel – Islas del Rosario – Photo from Wikipedia

Another option is to speak to the sailboat captains in the Cartagena harbor. There is a large market for taking tourists to Panama but a number of the sailors are also willing to take you out to the islands for a weekend. This is the absolute best way to visit the islands as you can literally put down anchor and swim through the crystal clear waters to shore.

Couple Travel Tips

• Take sunscreen with you! There aren’t any “stores” on the islands and if you forget or run out of sunscreen, you will regret it, especially if you are staying for a few days.
• Explore the islands by yourself even if you end up on a tour. They drop you off and expect you to stay at the “beach” but you will likely have time to wander around and see the real homes and people living on the islands, not just the beach front hotels.
• There are rumors that the first “hostel” has opened up on Isla Grande. Head to the Casa de la Chicheria in Cartagena to ask about it; this is the same family who apparently is opening the hostel.

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Mexico Travel – Puerto Peñasco – Photo by kretyen

For most people living in the US, “Latin America” is a far off place. For someone like me though, growing up in Arizona and just a few hours from Mexico, Latin America was a place we all knew. Mexico was not a distant vacation but a short road trip away. That was back when the border was open to US citizens and you didn’t even need a passport to cross. That was also back when the border area wasn’t quite so dangerous…

Mexico Travel – Puerto Peñasco – Photo from Wikipedia

Puerto Peñasco, a small city on the northern edge of the Gulf of California, located just about 60 miles from the US – Mexico border, was where we would head on summer and spring breaks. The drive from central Arizona to the beaches in California was about 8 hours long while the drive to the beaches of Puerto Peñasco was 5-6 hours. We always headed south.

Fishing Village to Gangster Hideout

Puerto Peñasco today is filled with huge hotels and beach resorts, bright green golf courses in the middle of the desert and a very attractive 18 year old drinking age which attracts plenty of college students from the big Arizona universities. For someone who has seen the “real” Mexico, Puerto Peñasco sure looks like a tourist trap of timeshare presentations and “English Only” resort hotels.

Mexico Travel – Puerto Peñasco – Photo from Wikipedia

I would love to tell you that Puerto Peñasco has a rich, cultural history… one you can find remnants of behind and between the luxury hotels. The truth though is that the history of Puerto Peñasco is directly tied to the influx of tourists from the North.

In the beginning there was no Puerto Peñasco; not really. This was the middle of the desert with no drinkable water source. Fisherman from further south in the Gulf of California would camp here when on fishing trips but no permanent establishment showed up until the 1920s.

One of the first settled residents of Puerto Peñasco was actually a gringo, a man from the US who came to Puerto Peñasco to build a casino and hotel. Prohibition had driven his bar business south and soon Puerto Peñasco became a luxury getaway for the rich and reportedly even for Prohibition gangster Al Capone. With the end of Prohibition, the gringos left but soon after the Mexican government added a railroad through this part of northern Mexico, creating an incentive for the development of a permanent fishing village. Puerto Peñasco as we now know it was born.

Arizona’s Beach?

Mexico Travel – Puerto Peñasco – Photo by Ms. Phoenix

History has a habit of repeating itself. While Puerto Peñasco did have a few years as a quiet fishing village, it has now become once again a getaway for the gringos of the north. It is actually more well known by its English name, Rocky Point, and while the fisherman are still here, the real business is in tourism.

Even the locals jokingly refer to Puerto Peñasco as Arizona’s beach. You’ll have no problem finding a hamburger and you’ll easily survive on the very basics of Spanish – hola y gracias. For more adventurous backpackers, it can be easy to dismiss Puerto Peñasco but it does hold a bit of charm… if you get far enough away from the gated-in resort hotels.

But Is It Safe?

Mexico Travel – Puerto Peñasco – Photo by kretyen

If you ask the condo salesman if Puerto Peñasco is safe, he’ll tell you all about how the city is an island of calm and tranquility in this volatile border area. The official US stance is a little less optimistic. Puerto Peñasco is relatively safe, especially if you are staying in one of the resort hotels. That being said, you do have to drive about 60 miles from the border to reach Puerto Peñasco and the highways in Northern Mexico are anything but safe.

Use your best judgement and check recent travel advisories and warnings before heading out. It is also a really good idea to plan your trip so that you aren’t on the highway after nightfall.

Couple Travel Tips

• If you are driving in from Arizona, stop near the border and make sure you buy Mexican car insurance. Your US insurance won’t cover you south of the border and fender benders are definitely more common on the busy streets of Puerto Peñasco.
• Please, please for your own safety, stay away from the drugs. This area of Mexico is incredibly dangerous if you get mixed up in the wrong sort of crowd and the drug dealers are the worst sort.
• Be conscious of where your money is going. So much of the tourism here is US owned or operated meaning your tourist dollars are heading right back to the US instead of helping the local economy. When you can, eat at locally owned restaurants and support other locally owned businesses.

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Buenos Aires Travel – Nightclub in the City – Photo by YoTuT

New York City is called the city that never sleeps but I think Buenos Aires might actually be more deserving of that title. In many European and North American cities, bars and clubs close around 2-3am. Here in Buenos Aires they don’t even open until then!

Buenos Aires is the ultimate place to blow your backpacker’s travel budget and completely ruin your sleep schedule all in one glorious night. If you are head out to enjoy the fun, here is how your night will most likely break down.

Pre-Party

The pre-party, as known as dinner, usually begins around 11 pm. Yes, here it is completely normal to have a dinner out with the family, grandma and grandkids included, at 10, 11, or even 12 o’clock at night.

Trust me, you’ll need the late night food to sustain yourself for the hours upon hours of dancing and drinking that will follow. If you are going out with a group of friends, look for a casual bar/restaurant to start off with. Pizza is a favorite pre-party food and feel free to order some beer but don’t overdo it.

Buenos Aires Travel – Niceto Club – Photo by mombojooficial

Porteños might party all night but, unlike many foreigners seen stumbling home, they are usually better about limiting or spacing out their alcohol consumption. Take it easy at dinner or you might end up the stupid foreigner who ruins the party by puking on the dance floor later.

Party

Buenos Aires Travel – Amerika in Buenos Aires – Photo from Wikipedia

After dinner, an event in itself that can take hours, you’ll finally be ready to head out to see the real Buenos Aires nightlife. The city is huge and as such there is a place literally for everyone. Most people head to laid back type bars first (check out Le Bar in the downtown) which often close early (around 2 am). Here is where you will be able to scope out the hotspots for the night. The clubs and bars in the city often hold weekly or special events and unless you are deeply embedded in the nightlife scene, it can be easy to miss the best party. By heading to a place like Le Bar first, you will be able to ask around and find out the “it” party for the night.

Buenos Aires Travel – Photo by blmurch

Once the bar closes, it is time to head to the real party. Between 3-6 is when the action happens and the clubs come to life with live music, fashion shows, performances, and of course lots of dancing. If you get lucky and end up at a great party, for sure stay but many locals find club-hopping around to different places more fun. Buenos Aires is huge though and you’re best bet is to stick to the clubs in a certain area of the city (i.e. Palermo or Downtown). The “best party in town” often depends on the night of the week. For Thursdays, I’d suggest Niceto Club while Jet is the place to be on a Saturday night (dress to impress; this place has a strict door policy).

After Party

Porteños are friendly, social people and if you are lucky, you’ll meet some locals while in the club who will invite you to their after party. A good afterparty can go until noon the next day so be prepared. These private after parties usually take place at someone’s home or a rented out space (clubs and bars) depending on the size of the party.

Buenos Aires Travel – After Party at a Local Home in Palermo

If you don’t get invited to a private party, you can still dance ‘til morning – or even afternoon – at a number of clubs in Buenos Aires that stay open extra late/early. Miloca is open well after sunrise, which you can watch from their patio while still drinking and dancing away. If you’re not quite ready for the sun, head to Cocoliche, a dark laser light filled space that literally stays open until 1pm the next afternoon.

Couple Travel Tips

• Make sure you get dress up before going out. Many of the nightclubs have strict dress codes and you won’t be let in at very many places in your backpacker cargo pants and sandals.
• Again, don’t overdo it with the alcohol. Buenos Aires is a relatively safe city but nowhere is completely safe if you are stumbling home drunk.
• There are also companies that offer Pub Crawls for tourists visiting the city. These can be a fun way to meet other travelers but aren’t nearly as fun as going out to a club yourselves.

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