If you follow travel related news, you might have recently heard the story of Garret Hand and Jamie Neal. These two travelers from the US ended up “missing” in Peru last month. After a frantic search by friends and family that made its way all the way to the mainstream media, the couple was found safe and sound on a boat in the Peruvian Amazon. They had simply been having such a great time, in this remote corner of Peru, that they had completely forgotten to call home.

Well, if this sounds like your type of South American adventure, I have a few more remote places that would be great places to “disappear” for awhile.

The Darien Gap

South America Travel – Darien Gap – Photo from Wikipedia

Note: I said these are great places to disappear, as in remote with little internet access or connections with the outside world; I did not say safe. If you go to the Darien Gap, you will definitely disappear… but you also might not come back.

South America Travel – FARC Rebels in the Darien Gap – Photo from Wikipedia

This 125 mile of land sits at the border between Panama and Colombia. It is a landscape of mountains and jungles, rivers and swamps. The Pan-American Highway which stretches over harsh landscapes from the very tip of Patagonia in Argentina to the very top of Alaska has only one break – the Darien Gap. No roads, no real settlements, and controlled by rebel groups – this is a place where you seriously might disappear for good.

Laguna San Rafael National Park

South America Travel – Laguna San Rafael National Park – Photo by Ralf Peek

This national park in Chile showed up on the Forbes list of “Most Remote Places in the World” for good reason. Located at the very end of the world, the Laguna San Rafael National Park is huge with over 6,720 square miles of wilderness. Glaciers fill the valleys and the only way in is by ships and small boats.

If is wasn’t remote enough, adventurers and mountaineers head into this region for weeks at a time to test themselves in the pristine wilderness. Imagine camping on a glacier, hundreds of miles from a reliable internet connection. Stay here long enough and you really will have disappeared.

The Jungles of Suriname

Suriname isn’t necessarily remote but it sure is unknown. Even if you do get the chance to call home, when you tell them you are in Suriname, there is a good chance they are going to be wondering how you got to Africa.

South America Travel – Suriname – Photo by Daveness_98

Suriname is one of those tiny countries above Brazil on the Caribbean coast of South America. It is an old Dutch colony but the country actually has an incredible mix of cultures and in the capital city, it is quite normal to hear people speaking everything from Dutch to Hindi to Sranan Tongo (a local Creole language with lots of English, Dutch, and Portuguese influence).

If you truly want to get lost, head south and into the jungle. As you travel the roads will slowly go from paved to dirt to mud trails and eventually end at one of the rivers. From there you’re only option is to hop a boat and continue deep into the jungle. The only people you run into now are the descendants of African slaves who escaped to these deep forest communities. This area of Suriname is slightly more connected to the outside world now-a-days thats to a mini-gold rush happening in the country’s interior but you’ll still be one of the few and possibly the only tourists this far south.

Couple Travel Tips

• Have an adventure and get a little lost; it’s all part of the fun. You probably should warn your family back home that you’ll be out of touch for awhile though.
• If you really are considering going to the Darien Gap, reconsider, and if not, your “safest” option would be to team up with one of the 4×4 jeep trips that occasionally attempt the journey.
• Make sure you have excellent travel insurance if you plan on going off the beaten path. The cost of an airvac out of the middle of the jungle could definitely put a damper on your trip.

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Passion is a word I fully understood only after visiting and living in South America. Here the word means so much more and you can feel it literally the moment you walk into any good bar or club. The people of Latin America fall in love fast and use terms of endearment so easily and frequently, you’d think the whole South American continent was in love.

If you happen to find yourself in Latin America with your partner on Valentine’s Day this year, consider yourself lucky. It is truly a place of love and there are an unlimited number of romantic places to visit. Here is a short list of some of the most romantic…

Cartagena, Colombia

Latin America Travel – Cartagena, Colombia

I might be a bit bias; Cartagena is the city where I met and fell in love with my fiance. Oddly enough, the moment I arrived in the city I remember thinking that it was a city made for couples.

With gorgeous little restaurants and boutique hotels, balconies overflowing with flowers, and salsa music (and dancers) pouring out of the city’s best bars, it is easy to see why Cartagena is a city of love and passion. This is a city known internationally for the movie “Romancing the Stone” and for Gabriel García Márquez book “Love in the Time of Cholera.” If you end up here this February 14th, treat yourself to a nice dinner and a romantic nighttime stroll along the city walls.

Maya Riviera

Latin America Travel – Maya Riviera – Photo from Wikipedia

Cancun is a city known more for one-night-stands than one-true-loves but head out of the city and you will find that the Mexican Riviera is easily one of the world’s most romantic places. For proof, just check out how many people head here for their honeymoons.

Your best bet is to book yourself into a nice spa and resort. Many places even offer special deals for Valentine’s Day like 2 for 1 couple’s spa packages or romantic beachside dinners.

Buenos Aires

Latin America Travel – Tango in Buenos Aires – Photo by prayitno

A city of tango and a touch of European elegance, Buenos Aires is a hot spot for romance. It’s a great place to spend Valentine’s Day if you are into more than relaxing on a beach and offers many activities from tango lessons to sailing tours in the northern district of Tigre.

Palermo is one of the city’s more romantic neighborhoods with plenty of romantic hotels, nice restaurants, and large parks for scrolling hand in hand with your lover. Plus, February is still summer time in the southern hemisphere. Take advantage of this fact and plan a nice picnic lunch for your sweetheart.

Jungle Lodge

Latin America Travel – Jungle in Ecuador – Photo by Dallas Krentzel

If your idea of a romantic getaway is being completely removed from the hectic day-to-day of life, you should consider booking a jungle lodge stay. Imagine waking up in the middle of nowhere, miles from the nearest town, to the sound of monkeys in the trees.

I would suggest opting for a more luxury jungle lodge if you are visiting for a romantic getaway. Lousy mosquito nets and nice cold showers don’t always spell out romance. Luckily though well over half of the countries in Latin America offer places where you and your partner can reconnect with nature and enjoy a private jungle experience.

Chilean Patagonia

Latin America Travel – Chilean Patagonia – Photo by Jeremy Vandel

Plenty of people head to Patagonia in Argentina but for the perfect Valentine’s Day getaway, I would suggest hopping across the border to Chile. The crowds are thinner and the proximity between the coast and the Andes mountains means you can enjoy a nice wine tour and still be back to the coast in time for a fresh seafood dinner.

The prices in Patagonia, especially in the summer months, can be very high but on the positive side, it’s not every Valentine’s Day that you have the chance to tell your partner “te amo” from atop a glacier.

Couple Travel Tips

• Valentine’s Day is not really celebrated in many Latin American countries, at least not like back home. On the positive side this means you won’t have to worry about booking dinner reservations a month in advance.
• As a backpacker, you probably don’t have a huge budget to work with but a splurge on a nice hotel or dinner will be worth it in the long run. Traveling as a couple can put a lot of stress on a relationship and it’s good to take pause and be grateful you have someone to travel the world with.
• Though it might be slightly unethical, telling the hotel or restaurant you are on your honeymoon can often score you a free upgrade or bottle of wine.

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Chile Travel – Hiking the Andes Mountains in Santiago, Chile

The Andes Mountains are massive

They extend 4,300 miles through seven South American countries: Venezuela, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Chile and Argentina. They offer every climate variation, elevation and trekking difficulty level. If adventure and unbelievable scenery is what you are looking for, this is the mountain range you must visit!

Chile Travel – Hiking the Andes Mountains in Santiago, Chile

Chile is a great place to begin your exploration because of the vastly different climate zones from the north to the south. If you visit northern Chile, the Atacama, your Andes experience will be drastically different than Patagonia in the south. The Atacama is the driest desert in the world, while the southern Andes will bring you face to face with gigantic glaciers. Be aware that both the Atacama and Patagonia typically require a second flight out of Santiago to explore.

Chile Travel – Cactus in the Andes Mountains

If you don’t have time to jet set or simply don’t want to travel to remote areas of Chile you are in luck, Santiago is surrounded by the Andes and you can reach them by car or via public transportation in less than an hour!

Chile Travel – Suspension Bridge in the Andes Mountains

We had one day in Santiago and chose to hike in Aguas de San Ramón Park. In less than an hour we arrived in the parking lot and began our ascent. There are numerous trails within the park, we chose the longest one, which ended at the Los Andes waterfall.

We hiked up and down steep trails, jumped through rivers and climbed rocks in search of the best views. What we saw was incredible, every valley was filled with a variety of flowers, cacti and greenery that extended up the peaks. We stood at every turn back and felt miniscule next to the sight of these gigantic rolling mountains.

Chile Travel – Enjoying the peace of the Andes Mountains in Santiago, Chile

The best part? The silence.

While you walk, listen to the sounds around you. There is a peacefulness about nature that can relieve any stress and calm your mind. Focus on the water flowing, leaves rustling and birds singing. Walking through the Andes Mountains is an experience that can only be fully enjoyed by engaging all of your senses.

Chile Travel – Flowers in the Andes Mountains

Chile Travel – Flowers in the Andes Mountains

The bigger the group you travel with, the louder your hike will be. At one point we passed a group of 40+ people following in line down the narrow trails. When we walked by them we could no longer hear the stream in the valley below, or the birds that had been chirping seconds earlier.

You aren’t going to be able to fully explore the Andes Mountains with a day or two of hiking, but it will allow you to understand why so many people travel from all over the world to marvel at these mountains and it will leave you wanting more.

Chile Travel – River through the Andes Mountains in Santiago, Chile

How to Visit the Andes from Santiago

Tour

There are many tour companies that take day trips into the Andes. There are plenty of trails to be explored, but I suggest you do your research and make sure that you go in with the correct expectations. Make sure you inquire about the level of fitness needed to complete the hike and whether lunch is provided or if you need to bring your own snacks and water.

I suggest asking how many people they take on their tours and how many guides are on the hike, so you can try to get with a smaller group.

Independent

Meeting a group at your hostel and renting a car for the day is a great way to see the Andes and save some money. Ask your hostel owner or other locals where the trails begin, your drive should be around 1 — 2 hours. Most of the park entrance fees are very low, $1-2 if you arrive on foot and $5 per car.

The trails are usually well marked with signage along your hike, so you don’t have to worry to much about getting lost. Bring a map and a compass to ensure you don’t spend the night with the cacti, and don’t wait too long to start heading back in case it takes you longer than expected.

Chile Travel – Los Andes Waterfall in Santiago, Chile

Alternate Day Hikes From Santiago

Río Clarillo National Reserve – only 45 kilometers outside of Chile, this reserve was created to preserve central Chile. Its main attraction is the Clarillo River, which provides water to nearby communities. This trail is open year round for hiking.

Cerro Pochoco – this trail can be very steep, but offers fantastic views of the Andes mountains. Plan for a three hour round trip hike if you are taking your time to enjoy the scenery and taking photos along the way.

Chile Travel – Drinking the fresh mountain water of the Andes Mountains

What to bring with you:

• Small backpack
• Water
• Food
• Lightweight rain/wind jacket
• Camera
• Swimsuit/Towel (for swimming in waterfalls along the way)

Chile Travel – Hiking the Andes Mountains

Couple Travel Tips

• Meet other couples to hike along with you. Most of the trails are clearly marked, but it is always safer to hike with more people.
• Enjoy the silence. You usually spend all day talking with your second half. For the day practice experiencing more and talking less, you will be glad you did!
• Bring water! This was in the previous list, but I wanted to highlight it. You are hiking for 8+ hours in a day, you need to stay hydrated. I suggest bringing at least 2 liters of water per person. It will be heavy when you start the hike, but that’s all the more reason to keep drinking it!
• Check in with the park rangers, especially during the winter, on how the weather conditions have been and ensure the trails are safe to hike. Even though some trails are known to be open year-round, there may be unforeseen conditions you aren’t aware of.

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Torres del Paine from behind the Towers

Patagonia travel triggers visions and feelings of extreme adventure for trekkers around the world.  You’ve seen the pictures on-line and you’ve heard stories about the unpredictable weather, vast glaciers, snow capped Andes mountains and the dramatic reward of hiking in Patagonia.  Are you ready to hike one of the most renowned treks in the world?  Torres del Paine National Park will satisfy that adventure craving.  We share our experience hiking in Patagonia through the Torres del Paine circuit in southern Chile.

A Guide for Hiking in Patagonia

This is a lot of useful information for hiking Torres del Paine, so we have broken up the guide into a series of posts. Be sure to check them all out.

When to Go

In Patagonia, the weather is extremely unpredictable and for most of the year unbearable to hike due to high winds, below freezing temperatures and ice.  The park remains open all year, but unless you are an experienced adventurer with ice hiking skills, you will most likely want to hike in the Summer (Nov-Mar).

High winds blow Aracely's jacket over her head while hiking Torres del Paine

Summer (Nov-Mar) is the peak season for trekking in Torres del Paine National Park, which creates over crowded campsites and trails. It’s warmest in the Summer, averaging 11ºC/ 52ºF, but the Patagonia weather still remains unpredictable with possibilities of rain, snow and high winds, which can disrupt your most anticipated trip to Torres del Paine. Low hanging clouds around the towers and dense fog can also hide the great Patagonia views of amazing landscapes and the three towers.

We arrived to Torres del Paine in mid-March when the crowds had dissipated and the weather is supposedly most stable. I admit, we got very lucky with the weather. Our trek began with 2 days of cold rain and below freezing nights. As the days progressed, the weather improved with sunny warm days and clear skies. As we descended the towers at the end of our 9-day full circuit trek, the clouds moved in, the winds picked up and the rain began. We highly encourage that you pick the time of year carefully.

Torres del Paine Towers at Sunrise

What To Bring

Since we were traveling for a full year when we planned our Patagonia hike, we didn’t have tents, sleeping bags or a camping stove.  We rented all of our equipment from Glacier de la Patagonia in Puerto Natales. They have good quality equipment all from the same manufacturer, Doite. If you are flying down to Patagonia specifically for hiking, bring your own gear from home. The quality of your gear will most likely be better and you will be saving money. Make sure your tent can withstand Patagonia winds and rain.

Hiking over the John Garner Pass on the backside of the full circuit

Sleeping bag

This is Patagonia, it is cold. We opted for the -10 degree Celsius by Doite and we still felt cold on a few nights.

Sleeping Pad

The ground is hard and cold, don’t skimp on the sleeping pad. The ones we rented weren’t very thick. Consider renting 2 if they appear thin and worn.

Tent

We rented a Himalaya Doite Tent which was the smaller one of the two that Glacier de la Patagonia offered.  Another afterthought, we should have opted for the larger tent for more comfort and little additional weight.

Warming food in the rain by our Doite tent in Torres del Paine

Cooking Stove and Pots

Keep it light. One pot and one spoon is enough for 1 person. Be sure to have a multipurpose knife. You can’t fly with the fuel needed to light your stove, but there are many places here to buy them.

Making Tea while Hiking Torres del Paine in Patagonia

Food

This was our biggest mistake. We didn’t bring enough and therefore had to buy some along the way which was very expensive. Even with end of season discounts, the food prices were jacked up.

Water is available from streams in Torres del Paine National Park

Several of the campsites have items to sell such as camping food, snacks, wine and beer. You will be hiking 6-8 hours daily and our bodies require fuel. Identify ways to keep the food weight to a minimum, but make sure you’re getting enough calories and replenishing your energy sources. You can drink water from small streams that cascade down the mountains.

The Best Lunch Picnic in Torres del Paine Patagonia

Clothing

Dress warm and avoid the cotton underwear and shirt. You will be sweating a lot and with few showers those cottons clothes will quickly stink. It will be freezing at night and either freezing during the day, or sunny and clear skies. Just focus on layers instead of big thick jackets that take up too much room. Layers are always recommended for easy taking off and putting on of clothes. Boots are absolutely necessary. We hiked on rocks, through mud and in snow at times. Pack a wind and rain breaker and hats and gloves.

Hiking Torres del Paine National Park in Chile

Other Gear

Walking sticks are optional, but we decided to rent them. I felt as though it was a good decision, but they aren’t absolutely necessary. Bring head lamps or torches, and rope for hanging wet clothes and food in the woods. If you don’t hang your food or secure it incredibly well, mice will get into it. Also bring sunglasses, sunscreen, a map of the park and toilet paper! In the winter the gear completely changes and I am not an expert in in extreme conditions, sorry.

Reading the Maps for Torres del Paine Patagonia

How to Get There

You can fly there, bus it or take the adventurous Navimag vessel through southern Chile’s islands.

The office at the entrance to Torres del Paine National Park in Patagonia

You can access Torres del Paine National Park from the gateway town of Puerto Natales. Puerto Natales provides hostels, hotels, restaurants, shopping and anything else you might need for your trek. If you plan to go during high season, be sure to book your hostel ahead of time.

Flights arrive to Punta Arenas, usually with a stopover in Puerto Montt, which lies on the Straights of Magellan. From Punta Arenas you will bus it 3 hours north to Puerto Natales.

You can bus it from Santiago, Chile, but it’s a very long 3100 km trip. If you are visiting Puerto Montt you can also fly to Punta Arenas or bus it to Puerto Natales.

In order to arrive at the entrance of Torres del Paine, catch a bus early in the morning from Puerto Natales. It’s 115 kilometers away and gates open at 8:30am

More Torres del Paine Hiking information to come!

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Trapped Smog Over Santiago, Chile

Santiago Chile is the captial and largest city in Chile. Located in the center of the vast country, it’s also known for it’s smog.

Thermal inversion (a meteorological phenomenon whereby a stable layer of warm air holds down colder air close to the ground) causes high levels of smog and air pollution to be trapped and concentrate within the Central Valley during winter months. In the 1990s air pollution fell by about one-third, but there has been little progress since 2000. – Wikipedia

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Jason Having Lunch At Valle de Frances Patagonia, Chile

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Puerto natales 1 371 by Adriuu, on Flickr

If you are planning to travel patagonia and visit Torres del Paine National Park in Chile, you will inevitably arrive to Puerto Natales.  Lying next to the cloudy turquoise glacier shores of Seno Ultima Esperanza, extreme wind conditions are common.  It’s a small town with most buildings only a single story with the main street clearly more developed and groomed than the less traveled side streets.  Like many of the towns visited in Patagonia, they have become entirely dependent on tourism, from the backpacker to tour groups of retirees.  Towns centered on tourism mean you will typically find a modern super market, plenty of adventure rental equipment, touristy restaurants and unlimited lodging.

Puerto Natales by darobin, on Flickr

If you are looking for traditions and off the beaten path villages, you won’t find it here, however Puerto Natales has a relaxing charm, with German influence,  that suits the Patagonia landscape well.  And most importantly, Germans make good beer.

Adventure Gear

Most streets are lined with hostels and tour agencies.  If you plan to hike Torres del Paine on your own, you may only need to rent equipment, visit the super market and purchase a bus ride to the park’s entrance.  With new businesses opening often in Puerto Natales, it is best to ask others in your hostel where they rented equipment.  Doite is the most common brand of outdoor equipment offered by outfitters in town.  In comparison to Cusco, Peru, Patagonia outfitters offer much higher quality equipment.  Several hostels offer equipment rental, but be sure to shop around first, prices will vary.

Puerto Natales offers more than a visit or trek to the three towers.  Ice climbing, mountain biking, kayaking and fly fishing are all popular activities that can be booked in town.

Austral Calafate Ale Patagonia Beer

After a long trek in Torres del Paine, be sure to spoil yourself with some cheer and wonderful food from the many choices of restaurants.  We preferred the Austral Calafate Ale, a berry (Calafate) flavored brew and a delicious seafood bowl for dinner.

Read about Hiking Torres del Paine

Budget Travel Tips

Save money by seeking out dorm hostels for $5,000 pesos a night.  We scored this rate by visiting Nancy’s Hostel and staying in their adjacent building with no sign.  The hostel had a warm shower and kitchen, but no refrigerator.  They will still allow you to visit the main hostel, Nancy’s, for wifi, cooking and to keep your food cool.  It is also possible to hitch hike your ride to the park’s entrance, saving $10,000 pesos.

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Monumento Natural Salar de Surire

Entering Northern Chile from Peru will most likely lead you to the coastal town of Arica.  Check out our article on discovering Arica to find out what adventure lies there, but for this article we are jumping right into Northern Chile’s great Altiplano!

Road Trip

Driving from Arica Chile to Putre on Day 1 of our 4x4 Road Trip

Northern Chile’s Altiplano is filled with varying landscapes including snow capped volcanoes, desert mountains, small adobe villages, salt flats, flamingos, vicuñas and pre-Inca ruins.  Arica will serve as your base camp for settling into the new country and planning your exploratory road trip.  Several vehicle rental companies exist in town with 4×4 vehicles.  Between the cost of your rental truck and all the gas you have to purchase, this adventure will definitely cost you additional money.

Route

Our Nissan 4x4 Rental Truck

The route you choose will also determine your fuel strategy.  There isn’t any places to fuel your vehicle beyond Putre, which is typically the first night’s location.  Some tours out of Arica take you to Parque Nacional Lauca to see Lago Chungara near the Bolivian border for a 12 hour round trip.  Another park, Reserva National Las Vicuñas, is south Parque Nacional Lauca and will require another day to visit.  At the southeastern most point of the Arica and Parinacota Region, you will find Monumento Natural Salar de Surire, a salt flat which lies furthest from Arica.  If you plan on visiting all three of these parks, you can possibly choose a loop route back to Arica.  The roads leading to Lago Chungara are good gravel roads, but beyond the lake it gets challenging.  If it’s been raining, your 4×4 might run into flooded dirt roads that are impassable.  If you are looking for a tremendous adventure, where you sometimes feel lost and wonder if you are going to make it out with enough gas and a running truck then drive the entire loop for 3 days.

You might also enjoy… Stargazing in Chile

Cactus Candelario Tree

Day 1

Our drive began at Arica, Chile where we rented an older 4×4 Nissan pick-up truck.  We were both excited to have such an independent adventure and to drive a vehicle again.  Typically we ride on buses from town to town.  The drive west on highway Chile 11 was incredibly unique to us.  The views of dessert hills extended for miles inland as we climbed steeply into the high plateau.

The highway is very well marked and mostly used by large trucks transporting goods to and from the Chile-Bolivia border.  A road trip means you have to stop and explore along the way.  One stop was to take a picture and attempt to climb the Cactus Candelario, a tall cactus tree.  Another was at the tiny village of Socoroma.  During our visit the town was having a festival where we enjoyed watching the people, covered in flour, dancing and singing in the roads between houses.

Sunset in Putre, Chile from the Town

After 167 km we arrived to Putre (3,500 meters) our destination for the night at round 4 pm and found a tiny hostel to stay in.  Although, at $28 per night we found it incredibly expensive in comparison to the previous places we’ve stayed at outside of Chile.

Festival in the Town of Socoroma, Chile

If you begin to feel any altitude sickness, be sure to spend an extra day or two acclimating in Putre.  The altitude will only get higher.

You might also enjoy… Discover Adventure in San Pedro de Atacama Chile

Day 2

Driving to Putre from Arica

By 9 am the next morning we were on our way to Lauca National Park and Lake Chungara.  After driving for just under 45mins, we found wild vicuñas and guanacos (camelids) all around the hills.  Although we’ve been in South America for a few months we’ve yet to see these.  Llamas and Alpacas, which are both domesticated have been everywhere, so it was exciting to see these new animals in the wild.  After stopping for pictures we continued our drive.

Reserva Natural Las Vicunas

Next we took an hour break at the town of Parinacota (4,400 meters) to see an old white colonial church that represents the transformation of region in the area.  One and half hours later we arrived at our destination for the day, Lago Chungara (4,500 meters).  The clouds had moved in and the sky was completely white, but it was a beautiful landscape with the twin snow capped volcanoes of Payachatas reflecting in the steaming lake.  We spotted beautiful pink flamingos and tried taking pictures, but they didn’t seem to like us being around them much.  You will need a strong telephoto lens if you expect to get some good pictures.

Condor We Spotted Flying Overhead Near Putre, Chile

On our drive back to Putre Aracely spotted a large condor flying close to the highway and yelled for me to stop the car.  The great bird flew around the top of the hills so gracefully, scanning the landscape repeatedly with only a flap or two of its wings.

You might also enjoy… Discover Arica Chile

Day 3

Lago Chungara in Parque Nacional Lauca in Chile

This was by far our most exciting day of the road trip.  When we left our hostel in Putre that morning destined for the Salt Flats of Surire, we didn’t know exactly how we would return to Arica.  We had read in Lonely Planet and heard from locals that there was a dirt road from the Salt Flats directly towards Arica that we could take instead of backtracking all the way back to Arica via Putre.  However, this road floods often and we were advised to ask the park rangers for some advice.

During our drive towards the Salt Flats we encountered some rangers and they told us that we should be able to make the journey to the flats if we used the 4×4 and never hit the breaks through the flooded road portions.  Feeling confident after speaking with rangers, we continued on.

Driving Slowly Through Winding Cliff Roads in Chile

Either the rangers underestimated the bad conditions of the road or maybe overestimated the capability of our older 4×4 vehicle.  We arrived at our first flooded area.  I activated the 4×4 capability on the truck and went for it.  Half way through the 20 yard long pond of muddy water we felt the truck slowing down and getting stuck .  At this point we were 2 feet deep.  I revved the engine further and we made it past the second half safely.  It was a great relief.

Driving Through Flooded Roads of Altiplano

Just another few miles later we reached our second and hardest challenge.  I took one look at what was in front of us and thought to myself, “There is no way we are  making it through that, we have to go around.”  But, we couldn’t find an obvious exit from the road leading around the deep, long flooded road in front of us.  I decided to go for it.  I was feeling a bit nervous.  With the throttle to the floor we began to race through as quickly as possible.  Within 15ft of entering the road lake the water was splashing over the hood and the vehicle began to stall.  I quickly steered the vehicle off the road, up over the edge onto the muddy park grounds.  This was unfortunate, but there is no way we would have made it through the 50 yards of flooded roadway.

Flooded Areas in Northern Chile

This was the scariest moment of the trip.  After stopping the car on the higher ground, I realized it still wanted to stall.  I continued to keep my foot on the gas pedal in fear that if the truck stalled, we wouldn’t be able to start it again.  At this point, the severity of the moment began to set in.  I continued on the throttle until the truck finally began to move.  We cheered aloud in excitement.  The kind that would have looked really cheesy had someone been watching.  We were not out of this mess yet.  The area was still muddy and several small rivers had been created from the flooded roadway.  We sped alongside the road as fast as the truck would go bouncing around kicking up what seemed like bricks of mud from under the truck until we found a safe area to reenter the road.  After driving full throttle for 5 minutes the truck was back to good form, except for the extra 50 pounds of mud that caked our chassis.

Monumento Natural Salar de Surire

Flamingos Flying Over Lake Chungara in Northern Chile

Avoiding further flooded roads, we arrived to the Surire Salt Flats and were rewarded with wild scenery including salt lakes, flamingos, vicuñas and snow capped mountains in the distance.  After getting directions from other rangers hanging out at the nearby salt mine we decided to take the direct road from the Salar de Surire to Arica.  The most important advice given to us was, “Look for a sign that reads something Hotel and turn left there.  It’s a small sign and if you miss it, you will get lost.”  I wondered how small was this sign and how risky was the drive.  It would be the most remote off the road drive we have ever experienced.  We were 6 hours from a town that would have fuel for our vehicle.  Driving through the mountains and canyons of the altiplano became the coolest video baja driving game I have ever played.  This was real!

Our Beat Up 4x4 Rental Truck Facing Big Storms Ahead

The road led us down to a gravel river bed.  The water was never more than a foot deep and didn’t pose any threats, but the river bed was wide enough that we couldn’t see where to pick back up the road on the other side.  We slowly drove through, excited of the adventure, but questioning our map reading skills.

We climbed back out of the canyon up to the tops of the high plateaus where wind and endless flat mountain tops dominated the landscapes.  We were driving on top of the world.  A nasty looking storm quickly moved in and darkened the sky, creating fear of flash floods.  We only caught the edge of the storm so the rains weren’t too bad.  Had this storm began before we crossed the river bed, I would guess we wouldn’t have been able to cross it.  That’s a scary thought.  We found the aptly described small sign and turned left with a great sigh of relief.  We were headed back home, or at least back to Arica.

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Proposal

Our Engagement Photo in the Middle of Nowhere

This was also the road trip that would end with Aracely and I engaged.  I felt it was the furthest from civilization that we had ever been, and for us, who were escaping the day to day monotony of our modern busy lives, this seemed perfect.  Sister Golden Hair was playing on the radio, which in itself was peculiar out in this desolate area where only 1 or 2 stations were received.  I pulled off the road where a clear landmark might be remembered 10 years from now.  It was a giant rock on the side of the road.

Jason Proposed to Aracely Here!

We took some unsuspecting pictures and then I turned on the video camera and sat it on the hood.  I returned to the front of our beat up rental truck and knelt down on one knee and proposed.  Aracely said, “Yes.”  We hid a necklace under some rocks near the giant rock and mapped our GPS coordinates.  We will return someday in celebration.

Our weekend included 450 miles of some of the most unique scenery we have ever seen in a 3 day journey.

Endless Dirt Roads in Northern Chile's Altiplano

As we drove back down the sand mountains headed to the Arica coast we felt a sense of accomplishment and excitement.  This adventure wasn’t a physical challenge, but still one filled with fear, panic a sense of being lost and most of all, a sense of complete freedom.

The Desert Hills of Arica, Chile

For Budget Travelers

At $90 USD per day plus $100 for gas, renting a 4×4, believe it or not is the cheaper option.  A 3-day tour that includes a visit to the village of Putre, the National Park Lauca, Lake Chungara, and the Surire Salt flats costs about $300 per person with an organized tour.  When renting the vehicle consider renting from the local companies rather than the global brands that charge twice as much.  But, if you end up with a beat up, old, green Nissan, be worried, because we beat that truck to sh*t.

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Courtesy of www.spaceobs.com

Travel in Chile doesn’t always go as planned, as our guest writer Linda Martin discovers…

We’d hoped to visit San Pedro de Atacama on our first trip to Chile, detouring off the main road from Santiago to the border to see what this desert town has to offer.  But while we were in the south of the country, Chile was rocked by the 8.8-grade earthquake that killed more than 500 people and left thousands more homeless; it was a sad time for the country.  The quake caused major damage to roads and highways, and airports and bus stations in several cities were closed for several days.  Even in the south where we were, far from the epicenter, transport came to a complete halt for a couple of days – you couldn’t travel in any direction.

It took us a week to get back to Santiago, partly because of the damage to the roads, and partly because the bus companies weren’t very helpful in re-booking tickets.  During this time, we were overwhelmed by the hospitality offered to us by the family of one of my travel companions – his aunt took us in and was happy to let us stay for as long as we needed to.

We were lucky, but we were a week behind schedule and had to make it to Lima to meet friends on certain date, so San Pedro de Atacama was off the cards.

Luckily, later in our trip we had the chance to finish our salt flats tour either in Bolivia, where it started, or in San Pedro.  It was a great opportunity for Ange (the friend we’d met in Lima) to have her first taste of Chile – and I’m not just talking about food.  We planned to spend two days in the town, and on arrival immediately booked our tickets out again – this time to Argentina.

Expensive Restaurants & Happy Hours

As it turned out, we weren’t actually too enamored with San Pedro de Atacama – it’s expensive and touristy and everyone wanted to speak to us in English (I’m learning Spanish and am always keen to practice).  The only activity we wanted to do was the astronomy tour, which is similarly expensive, but we’d heard that it was worth every penny (sorry, peso).  But sadly, the snowstorm we’d been in as we arrived had left the usually-clear sky cloudy, and the tour was canceled on both nights of our stay.

On the third day, we packed up and headed to the bus station, only to find that the border with Argentina was closed because of snow.  That’s right, snow in the desert.  Sure, it had snowed as we arrived, but the deepest ground cover we’d seen was about one or two inches thick – not enough to stop a bus.  But, apparently it was enough to stop not only our bus, but all traffic through the border crossing.

Courtesy of www.spaceobs.com

We were stuck in San Pedro de Atacama, but there was some good news – the astronomy tour was on!  We booked into a new hostel, bought our tickets, and turned up at 8 o’clock to start the adventure.

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About 20 of us piled into a bus and were driven about 25 minutes into the desert, past the border control station and along an empty road.  We were met by our host, an effervescent Frenchman, and his Chilean wife.  The tours are conducted in English, French, or Spanish, and there didn’t seem to be a fixed schedule as to which language is spoken on which tour – it’s all pretty flexible.

We started inside, in a purpose-built classroom where Alain explained what would happen next, offered us jackets (it was very cold) and took our orders for the drinks we’d get at the end of the tour.  Then he started talking about stars.  It was impossible not be inspired, his passion for all things celestial was evident in the way he spoke – it felt like he would talk all night if only he could.  He jumped from one topic to another, giving us a brief but comprehensive crash-course in astronomy.

The lesson continued outside, as he pointed out stars and constellations of interest with his laser pointer, explaining difficult topics clearly and smoothly.  He welcomed questions, and often answered at length – always with something interesting to say.  After an hour or so we moved over to the telescopes, which his wife had positioned so that they each showed something different – Mars, Saturn, the Jewel Box.  We all split up to look at different views, and she changed the positions of the telescopes to show more constellations.  It was amazing to be able to use such powerful equipment, and to see constellations so clearly.

Courtesy of www.spaceobs.com

After we’d all spent enough time looking at the stars, we went back inside for our hot drinks (the hot chocolate was delicious) and another talk about the stars.  Alain welcomed questions but I think we were all so overwhelmed by the amount of information that we’d ingested that we couldn’t think of any, so he just talked a bit more about his favorite topic before bidding us farewell.

We headed back to San Pedro de Atacama inspired and with a whole new appreciation for the wonders of the cosmos.  The star tour is without a doubt San Pedro’s must-do attraction – don’t wait until you’re trapped by snow to do it.

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Foxglove Flower in Torres del Paine National Park, Patagonia Chile

Foxgloves are also called Witches’ Gloves, Dead Men’s Bells, Fairy’s Glove, Gloves of Our Lady, Bloody Fingers, Virgin’s Glove, Fairy Caps, Folk’s Glove, and Fairy Thimbles.  These are biennial plants and are tall, slender perennials at 2-5′ in height and just 1-2′ wide.  It is a very statuesque plant.  It has numerous tubular flowers blooming on a spike, ranging in color from purple to white.  Foxglove flowers appear in the summer months.  The flowers are bell-shaped and tubular, 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 inches long, flattened above, inflated beneath, crimson outside above and paler beneath, the lower lip furnished with long hairs inside and marked with numerous dark crimson spots, each surrounded with a white border.  ~ Iflorist.co.uk

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Glacier Los Perros On Full Circuit Trek At Torres Del Paine National Park

This photo is of Glacier Los Perros near Los Perros Camp Site. It was taken during very high winds where we had to sit on our bellies to not be blow into the freezing lake.

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Dirt Streets of San Pedro de Atacama

San Pedro de Atacama is an adventure town located in Chile’s Northern Salt Mountains and is an extreme desert environment.  The landscape is very picturesque with snow capped mountains in the distance and desert valleys that glow orange when the sun sets.

Tourists flock to San Pedro to see pink flamingos in the salt flat basin, experience geysers in the geothermal fields, go sand boarding down giant sand dunes and to simply watch sunsets and stargaze in the endless desert.

Travel Agency Offering Sand Boarding

Prices are high here, since the entire town has retired from the salt mines and all income stems from tourism.  There is an unlimited number of restaurants and cafés to choose from but no real supermarket.  If you want to prepare your own meal you might find yourself visiting several tiendas to get everything on your list.

Expensive Restaurants & Happy Hours

As you stroll down the dusty dirt streets in town be prepared to be offered tours, happy hours, meal specials and sand boarding trips.  The selling practices are very familiar to those found on the streets of  Cuzco and Arequipa.  With so many tour agencies it becomes a bit overwhelming to choose a quality tour.  We booked all our tours through Cactus Expeditions (Cactus Tours) and were highly satisfied.  Ronald was our guide during our Geysers and Cactus tour, and we considered him one of the best guides we have had during our travels.

Aracely Caught in Sand Drifts

San Pedro is small with an old American West charm.  There are no buildings over 2 stories and no paved roads.  Bring lots of sunscreen and a handkerchief or bandanna, sometimes the sand kicks up a lot in the wind.  If you are into extreme adventure seek out Volcano Tour Company for a snow capped summit.

For Budget Travelers

If you are on a budget several campsites are available as well as hostels away from the touristy town center.  The option also exists to venture into the desert visiting Valle de la Muerte (Death Valley) and Valle de la Luna (Moon Valley) by bicycle.   There are roads leading to the sites, but at some point you will have to disembark your bicycle to walk the giant sand dunes.

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El Morro Cliff

Arica was the first town we arrived to in Chile entering from Peru in the north.  After researching our Lonely Planet Guide, it was a last minute decision that had us headed to Arica.  The description of what we could find in Chile’s Altiplano was enticing: town of Putre, Lauca National Park, Salar de Surire or Surire Saltbeds, pink flamingos, wild vicuñas and snow capped volcanoes.  Arica is a desert coastal town with beaches, cliffs and sand dune mountains.  It’s also a busy beach town with a small seaport, many tourism offices, shopping and surfing.

Bike Riding on Arica Beach

Surfing and Bike Rides

Surfing lessons can be found all over Arica Chile or you can stay in Surf House Hostel where you can have both a great hostel environment owned by a surf instructor.  If surfing is not your thing, rent a bike and ride north to clearer less crowded beaches.  The beaches in Arica are not beautiful natural beaches but worth a dip in the ocean to cool off from the desert sun.  Just be aware it’s also a large port city, which inevitably leads to pollution.

Adventure

For a more adventurous activity visit the Northern Chile Altiplano region.  You can book a tour through an agency in Arica, however we recommend arriving to Putre first and booking tours there.  Putre is a very small town past the coastal mountains, before reaching the Atiplano.  Putre has many agencies to choose from.  For the greatest experience, rent a 4×4 truck in Arica and spend 3-days driving through the Altiplano on your own.  Be sure to fill all your extra fuel containers, because stations aren’t available in the Altiplano.

• More Photos of Chile
• Watch a Patagonia Chile Sunrise

Arica Beach, Chile

For Budget Travelers

If you are on a budget we recommend Hostal Cali in Putre.  The tour package prices vary depending on how far you venture into the Altiplano, with the Surire Salt Fats being the furthest.  If you plan to visit Uyuni in Bolivia, skip the Surire Slat Flats here.  You still have a chance to see flamingo families at Lago Chungara but chances are very slim.  Flamingos in this area are shy and unless you have a telephoto lens you won’t capture decent photos.  If you don’t have a budget rent 4×4 and go explore!

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Enjoy a stunning sunrise from Patagonia through a Travel Video from Jason and Aracely of TwoBackpackers.com. In Short Clip 3, we share the colorful skies surrounding the Torres del Paine towers changing as the sun rises. Enjoy the show!

The three towers stand as the icon of Patagonia Chile and attract tourists from all over the world. Some come to earn the right to watch the sunrise over the towers by trekking the complete Torres del Paine Circuit, while others come for one day only. The Torres del Paine National Park has something for everyone.

The full circuit can take up to 10 days and your experience is highly influenced by the weather which can make the trek exhausting.  Depending on the season, trekkers can face brutal, bone chilling winds as they make their way over John Gardner’s pass.  A more brief trek capturing the main highlights of the park, named the “W” is more common amongst hikers and avoids some of the more harsher conditions.

Regardless of how tourists make their way to the towers, all wish to find a magnificent sunrise like the one captured in this short video.  With unpredictable weather conditions you may find your self visiting for several mornings.  A climb up to the lookout in the dark can be the most rewarding sunrise you will ever experience.

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