Colombia Travel – Palenque Festival – Photo from Wikipedia

Hidden away in the Colombian jungle for hundreds of years, there lies a small community alive with African heritage. Located less than an hour from Cartagena, in the foothills of Montes de María, and protected by a combination of swamps and jungle, Palenque has been the home to Afro-Colombians, the decedents of the country’s first slaves, for hundreds of years. Now a days, it is a popular destination for travelers looking to see a different side of Colombia.

A Safe Haven for Escaped Slaves

Colombia Travel – Palenque Founder – Photo from Carlos Bustamante

Palenque was thought to have been founded sometime in the 16th century by the escaped slave Benkos Bioho and is considered the first free town in Latin America. Today a statue of Benkos Bioho stands in the center square and shows the founder of this proud community breaking from the chains of slavery.

Colombia Travel – Palenque – Photo by MurderArbelaez

In the beginning, Palenque was far from unique. In fact, the name Palenque originally referred to all “fortified” communities of escaped slaves that surrounded the port of Cartagena. Cartagena was the main slave port in this region of Latin America and as such, there were a number of slave revolts and quite a number of slaves were able to eventually escape into the surrounding jungles. Palenque communities offered a safe haven for these escaped slaves; a place where they could form a community as free men. That being said, out of the dozens of escaped slave communities in this region, only Palenque was able to survive until the present day.

Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity

What makes Palenque an amazing place to visit is the unique cultural traditions that have been able to survive here for hundreds of years. At times you feel like you are walking through a villages in Africa, not one in Colombia.

Palenque was declared a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in part because of the African traditions that still survive here. The Afro-Colombians who currently call Palenque are tied to their past African ancestors through dance, music, and language.

Colombia Travel – Palenque Dancers – Photo by Paula

The language of Palenque, called Palenquero, is perhaps the only surviving Spanish-based Creole language though it is so far from Spanish that every few Spanish speakers can understand it at all. The language has fascinated linguistics, combining African Kikongo languages from Congo and Angola with Portuguese (which was spoken by the slave traders who brought the slaves to Cartagena) and Spanish. Today, less than half of the community’s 3,000 or so residents speak Palenquero though it is being revived through the local school, which has introduced Palenquero classes.

Traditional African dance is also an important element to this community and a way for them to stay connected to their African roots. The local dance school teaches classes for over a 150 of the community’s school children, from kindergarten to teenagers, and has had participated in dance competitions and performances throughout Colombia.

Colombia Travel – Palenquero – Photo from Wikipedia

Couple Travel Tips

• The best time of year to visit Palenque is during the annual Festival of “Drums and Culture” which usually happens in early October.
• Many of the people in Palenque have suffered extreme racism and prejudice when venturing into the city of Cartagena for work. While the community is usually quite welcoming be aware that as an outsider you might be viewed as part of the problem.
• If you don’t have the time or opportunity to visit Palenque you can still get a taste of the community’s culture in the old city of Cartagena. Look for the women in bright colored dresses selling fruit (they are usually from Palenque and even referred to as Las Palenqueras) or head to the Clock Tower just after sunset where you can usually see a performance by one of the local Palenque dance groups.

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Latin America Travel – Breakfast – Photo by Dorli Photography

Breakfast is by far my favorite meal of the day and we all know what an important meal it is.  Back home in the United States, breakfast for me meant deliciously sugary goodness like waffles, pancakes, and french toast piled high with syrup, fruit, and whipped cream.  Definitely not the most nutritious version but it sure was tasting.

Since traveling around Latin America, I have discovered that while breakfast is important, it often gets a second place ranking to lunch, when everyone eats their main meal of the day.  Unlike in the US where breakfast foods have their own separate category, breakfast in Latin America is often times simply a smaller version of typical lunch foods or leftovers from dinner the night before.

Thankfully this isn’t true in all cases and there are a number of traditional foods and recipes reserved strictly for breakfast.  Be sure you try a few of my favorites below.

Colombia

Latin America Travel – Changua – Photo by manuela y daniel

If I had to pick I’d say Colombians have the most creative breakfasts in Latin America.  Each region of the country has its own traditions though many of them can be found mixed together in the capital city of Bogota.

You can’t have a traditional Colombian breakfast without trying their coffee, which they drink 24 hours a day!  The other option is a hot chocolate but don’t be shocked when they drop a chunk of cheese in it.  Colombians often put cheese in their hot chocolates, allowing the cheese to become soft and half melted as they drink, a special treat at the bottom of the cup.

If you want a Colombian breakfast that will really fill you up, ask for Changua.  This milk and egg soup is traditionally served in Bogota and is reportedly a great hangover breakfast.  It is basically a hot milk soup made with a bit of onion, cilantro, and eggs.  You drop the egg in whole, without cracking the yolk until you are ready to eat.

Argentina

Latin America Travel – Facturas y Mate – Photo by amanky

Argentina is famous for its meat.  Having a huge asados (bbq) with sausages, steaks, and every cut of meat you can imagine is not only a typical weekend activity, it’s practically mandatory.  Knowing this, I was expecting and hoping to find that Argentinians eat equally huge, delicious breakfasts filled with bacon, ham, sausage, eggs, and more.  Instead I found that a typical Argentinian breakfast is rarely more than a bit of bread.

Argentines don’t enjoy large breakfasts, often just having a quick snack before heading off to work.  The “snack” usually consists of a few facturas, which is the name for the wide variety of pastries eaten with a traditional Argentine breakfast.  They are more often than not sweet, filled with custards or dulce de leche though you can also find medialunas with ham and cheese filling.

Facturas are often served with additional dulce de leche or jam on the side and breakfast is finished off with coffee (most often café con leche) or yerba mate.

Mexico

Latin America Travel – Huevos Motuleños – Photo by Wikipedia

Breakfast in Mexico, like every meal must of course include a tortilla.  Huevos motuleños offer that and so, so much more.  Here is finally a breakfast that is worth celebrating; a complete collection of delicious goodness that will leave you feeling full all morning.

Huevos motuleños originated in the Yucatan Peninsula and reportedly in the town of Motul during the 1920s.  The dish has now spread all over Mexico with each region giving it their own twist.  In the Yucatan, your Huevos motuleños will most likely consist of a crispy corn tortilla topped with refried beans, tomato sauce (more like spicy salsa – watch out for the habanero peppers), a fried egg, and crumbled cheese.  You can also add pieces of smoked ham, a bit of cilantro, a little lemon juice, and sometimes even peas.

Couple Travel Tips

• If you are missing breakfast “from back home” head over to the local supermarket.  Even though people in Latin America rarely eat the same things for breakfast that you might find back home, they still have most of the items (cereal and milk, pancake mix, bacon) in their supermarkets.
• Breakfast is often a light meal in Latin America but don’t worry, you’ll make up for it at lunch when most people eat their largest meal of the day.  Look for “Menu del Dia” for a traditional, cheap lunch.
• Can’t live without your breakfast traditional of Vegemite or peanut butter?  You better pack a jar to bring with you.  These items are HARD to find and even if you do, they will have a high “import” price.

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Colombia Travel – Cartagena – Photo by szeke

It is a small, almost insignificant looking error but for anyone who has traveled to Colombia or fell in love with this great country, it is like nails on a chalkboard.

Colombia is a country, Columbia is not. Colombia is home to some of the world’s best coffee, Columbia is a university back in the US. Colombia is located on the very northern tip of South America, British Columbia is way up in Canada.

For years and years this South American country has been getting misspelled by everyone from Starbucks (proudly selling coffee from Columbia… huh, where?) to international media sources (good job on the research guys!). But thanks to a social media campaign, launched earlier this year at Social Media Week in New York, the confusion and misspellings of this proud country will hopefully stop.

More Than a Misspelled Name

Colombia Travel – Bogota – Photo from Global Gastros

You might be thinking, what’s the big deal? It is just a simple spelling error. Sure, that’s true but for the people behind the “It’s Colombia, Not Columbia” campaign, that misspelling represents so much more.

Colombia has had it’s up and downs, like most countries in the world. It was once home to world famous drug lords and powerful rebel groups kidnapping international visitors on a regular basis. Most recently Colombia was in the news for the Secret Service prostitution scandal during the Summit of the Americas.

But what else do you know about Colombia? What else is there to this country? If you live in the US or Europe, let me tell you, your view of this country is highly skewed by the media. Sure, the Hollywood film Colombiana highlighted the power of drugs and corruption but did you know Colombia actually exports 60% of the world’s emeralds as well? Or how about the fact that is grows and exports nearly every flower sold in the US. Your wedding centerpiece probably came from Colombia.

Colombia Travel – Tayrona National Park – Photo by szeke

Oh, and the dangerous world of drug lords and rebels who will kidnap you in an instant… yeah, that doesn’t happen nearly as often as the media lets you think. Colombia is actually one of the safer countries in Latin America and incredible safe for the average tourist. The rebels are still around but are more interested in peace talks with the government than bothering visiting foreigners.

The country is not perfect, no, but it definitely doesn’t deserve the reputation it has in the world. The “It’s Colombia, Not Columbia” campaign is about asking people to take a second look at the country that is more than deserving of that small request.

Have you been to Colombia? What was your experience there? Did you feel safe or did it seem like a dangerous place?

Colombia Travel – Colombian Dancers

Couple Travel Tips

• Don’t add to the negative statistics. Be sure you follow basic safety advice (i.e. not walking alone at night) and you should be fine.
• Please do not come to Colombia just to buy drugs. This is the #1 reason Colombia has a bad reputation and the #1 way to get yourself in a dangerous situation.
• If you have visited Colombia, tell people what you saw. The only way to combat the overwhelming number of negative news reports is to share positive stories of your travels in Colombia.

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Colombia Travel – San Agustín Statute – Photo by Mario Carvajal

San Agustín is a small, rather unremarkable or unique town in the south of Colombia. It would be overlooked completely by passing tourists if not for the amazing archaeological sites that surround it. San Agustín is at the heart of a massive archaeological park that spans over 250 square miles and is home to some of the most impressive pre-columbian statues in South America.

These statues, along with the tombs and other archaeological sites that surround them, offer visitors a chance to see the power of this ancient and mysterious culture. Who built these statues and why is still a puzzle and it is estimated that less than half of the pre-columbian sites have been excavated.

UNESCO World Heritage Site

There are literally hundreds of statues, tombs, and rock carvings to see in and around San Agustín. Your best bet is to plan at least a full two days to see the major sites.

Colombia Travel – San Agustín Statute – Photo by megavas

The main archaeological park, which has a small entrance fee, is the most popular stop. There are a number of burial sites and tombs, along with plenty of statues. There is also a museum that gives a basic overview of the history of the ancient pre-columbian culture that built these sites. The culture is a bit of a mystery and was long gone by the time the Spanish arrived. Most of the statues and larger tombs were built by this culture between the 1st and 8th century.

Colombia Travel – San Agustín Statutes – Photo from Wikipedia

Also in the park is La Fuente de Lavapatas, an impressive water sculpture and fountain that consists of a maze of canals, pools, and carved images which the water flows through. The engineering of the structure and the high level of skill it took to make shows that this ancient culture was quite advanced.

Colombia Travel – La Fuente de Lavapatas – Photo by Mario Carvajal

Besides the main Parque Arqueologico, you should also try and visit the smaller park of Alto de Los Idoles. There is another small entrance fee but this park has some unique artifacts and great views.

Four other smaller sites all site within walking distance of each other – El Tablon, La Chaquira, La Pelota, and El Purutal. Obando, located further from town is famous for underground tombs and also has a small museum with some great examples of the ancient cultures pottery.

Hike, Horse Riding, or Jeep Tours

Colombia Travel – San Agustín Statute – Photo from Wikipedia

In 1995, after the whole area was declared a World Heritage Site, there was a significant boost of tourism to the small town of San Agustín. Tour companies and hostels started to open, offering guides and unique opportunities to visit the sites.

Today you can book both jeep and horseback riding tours which allow you to see the most number of sites in one day. That being said, hiking is still considered one of the best ways to both visit the sites and enjoy the beautiful local countryside. A great hiking option is to take the early morning bus (carro) to Obando and walk back towards San Agustín, stopping to visit El Estrecho. The hike takes approximately five hours but if you get tired, you can usually stop a bus on the main road and get a ride back to town.

Couple Travel Tips

• Your guidebook might mention that this region is home to rebels and guerrilla but the area is actually quite safe now-a-days. That being said, it’s best to avoid night travel and of course don’t hike alone.
• Respect the heritage of the site and don’t climb on or damage the stones. Many of the archaeological sites in this region have already been damaged by looters and treasure hunters. Don’t add to the problem.
• Make sure you bring some extra cash as there are only a few ATMs in town and they occasionally run out of money, especially during the holidays when more people are visiting.

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Colombia Travel – Barranquilla – Photo from Wikipedia

Most backpackers come to Barranquilla for the annual Carnival. Well, actually most backpackers don’t come to the city at all. Sandwiched between the much more popular walled city of Cartagena and the Santa Marta/Taganga area, Barranquilla is usually at most a bus stop when traveling between the two.

Barranquilla might not attract the tourists but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t thrive. As one of the largest cities in Colombia and the most important port in the country, Barranquilla holds a good deal of power and influence. Most travelers to the city are actually coming on business trips and the city is home to many international companies.

Colombia Travel – Barranquilla – Photo from Wikipedia

The city is also known for being one of the most diverse cities in Colombia thanks to an influx of immigrants after World War I and World War II. It’s not often that you can say you ate authentic Lebanese food in the middle of Colombia but thanks to the large Middle Eastern community (who immigrated after WW II) you can easily find authentic Syrian-Lebanese food along with your typical Colombian arepa.

Colombia Travel – Barranquilla Carnival – Photo by Ashley Bayles

Barranquilla Carnival

The one time per year that Barranquilla does become the hot spot of Colombia is during the annual Carnival. Held the week before Ash Wednesday, the Carnival has been named one of the best in the world (right after Rio) and called a “World Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity” by UNESCO.

The city floods with visitors and every hotel and hostel room is booked weeks to months in advance. The party is none stop for over 4 days and includes a unique mix of European, African, and Native Indian influences.

Beyond Carnival

If you miss the Barranquilla Carnival, you might be tempted to skip the city on your visit to Colombia. It’s true the party is the real highlight of the city but it’s not all the city has to offer.

This is the birthplace of Shakira and if you love dancing, especially the hot dance moves of the Caribbean, this is your city. The nightlife is awesome, from high end nightclubs to corner bars. One minute you’d think you were in a South Beach, Miami club, the next you are out of the streets still dancing and taking shots of the “burning water” – Aguardiente.

If you are a soccer, I mean football, fan Barranquilla is also home to the Estadio Metropolitano Roberto Meléndez. The stadium is the biggest in the country and where the national team of Colombia plays. Ask around to see if there is a game while you are there and your hostel or hotel should be able to direct you on how to purchase legitimate tickets.

Colombia Travel – Estadio Roberto Melendez – Photo from Wikipedia

If you are more interested in relaxed sightseeing, Barranquilla also has a number of nice museums, great art-deco architecture, and river tours down to the mouth of the Magdalena river and the Caribbean Sea. The gold museum isn’t as good as the one in Bogota but the Museo del Caribe has a lot of unique displays featuring the history of the settlement of Colombia.

Colombia Travel – Barranquilla – Photo from Wikipedia

Couple Travel Tips

• Barranquilla crime rates continue to drop but there are still many neighborhoods in the city that you should avoid. Stick to the northern area of the city, don’t go out by yourself late at night, and you should be fine.
• If you run into any problems while traveling on the Colombian coast, most of the embassies in Bogota also have consulate offices in Barranquilla where you can report stolen passports or other travel issues.
• For anyone planning to enjoy a football match, be aware that the crowds at the national stadium can sometimes get quite rowdy. It’s best to wear the local teams colors and you might want to leave a bit before the crowds to avoid a sometimes dangerously charged atmosphere (whether they win or lose).

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Colombia Travel – Suesca Rock Climbing – Photo by Yassef

Colombia has its own growing tourist and travel scene. People from the capital city of Bogota love to take time off of work and explore their own country. Luckily, vacation time in Colombia is plentiful and many people from the city take up weekend activities in the countryside. Whether hiking or mountain biking, fishing or horseback riding, the countryside outside of Bogota offers something for everyone.

A very popular hobby among young people from Bogota is rock climbing and there in no better place to climb close to Bogota than Suesca.

Colombia Travel – Suesca – Photo from Wikipedia

Located less than 2 hours from the city, Suesca is a small town of about 15,000. It is surrounded by Colombia’s dairy land and plenty of flower plantations but what it is actually known for is rock climbing.

Rock Climbing

Colombia Travel – Rocas de Suesca – Photo by Yassef

Suesca is said to be the birthplace of rock climbing in Colombia. Years ago, young people from Bogota came out this way to escape the city, camp, and enjoy nature. Soon enough, the Rocas de Suesca area was found. Located just outside of town, the Rocas de Suesca is a large 4 km long area of natural cliffs that runs along the railroad tracks. There are over a hundred climbing routes, varying in style and difficulty.

This is not a “tourist” activity and most climbers come with their own gear. You might have difficulty renting gear yourself but there are a few companies in Bogota that arrange trips out to Rocas de Suesca.

If you are visiting on a weekend and find the wall a bit too crowded, hike out to Valle de Halcones. Located about a 40 minute walk from the Rocas, Valle de Halcones is a second climbing area with incredible views. It is a located on private property though and the owner is not always willing to have climbers on his land. You might be politely asked to leave.

Spending the Night

Colombia Travel – Suesca – Photo by leopineda

Suesca is well off the backpacker trail. There are no real hostels or none that stick around for long and most people visiting (local Colombians from Bogota, rarely foreign tourists) end up camping.

There are designated camping sites near the Rocas de Suesca climbing wall or if you walk back into town, you should be able to find a few small, family-run hotels.

The best time to visit is on the weekends. The climbing wall might be a bit more crowded but at night all the climbers camp close together and it turns into a great little party. Colombians are incredibly friendly and if you speak a bit of Spanish, you will no doubt be invited to join in.

Colombia Travel – Suesca Locals – Photo by Luis Perez

Couple Travel Tips

• Stay in the designated camping areas near Rocas de Suesca. This area of Colombia is very safe but if you wander off too far you might end up camping on private land and run into problems with the owner.
• If you are lucky, you’ll end up visiting in the dry months (winter and spring). Come summer time (June) this area is hit by the rainy season and occasionally the route to the climbing wall and the camping areas get flooded out.
• If you stay more than a night or two, consider skipping the wall one day and renting a mountain bike into town. There are some great trails in the area and the scenery will blow you away.

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Colombia Travel – Quindío – Photo by joshuaheller

Colombia’s coffee region is one of the most popular places for foreign tourists visiting the country. The paisa, a nickname for people from this region, are said to be some of the most friendly and welcoming people in all of Colombia. They open their doors to outsiders, giving an intimate look into the region’s coffee farms, history, and unique environment.

The coffee “triangle” encompasses a number of small towns and cities spread out over 3 Colombian states or departments. At the center of this region, sitting comfortably between Colombia’s 3 major cities (Bogota, Medellin, and Cali) is the small city of Armenia, capital of Quindío. This city is often overlooked by travelers despite it being the jumping off point for most of the coffee region’s greatest highlights.

The Earthquake of 1999

Colombia Travel – City of Armenia – Photo from Wikitravel

Armenia is not a pretty city. It doesn’t have the gorgeous colonial buildings of Bogota’s La Candelaria district nor does it have the nightlife of Cali. The “touristy” sites of the city can be counted on one hand and hostels are a rare site. Despite that, Armenia sees thousands of travelers passing through each year. Sadly, many are doing just that – passing through.

A likely reason for travelers skipping the city, or only staying long enough to catch the next bus, has to do with the devastating earthquake of 1999. Armenia was founded in 1889 and was an important city for both travelers and for merchants transporting coffee, plantains, and bananas to the country’s major cities. It was a city with history and beauty. That all changed in 1999.

On Monday, January 25, 1999 Armenia and the greater Quindío state was hit by a 5.9 earthquake. While not as strong as other earthquakes seen in the region, this earthquake was centered almost right under Armenia. The location and strength of the quake, combined with the rather weak construction methods of the city’s old buildings, caused incredible destruction. Over a thousand people were killed, 50% of the city’s population displaced, and close to a quarter of the city destroyed. The historical sites of Armenia crumbled in an instant.

Colombia Travel – City of Armenia – Photo from Wikipedia

Despite the city of Armenia literally crumbling down less than 20 years ago, it is now once again a center of commerce and trade in Colombia’s coffee region. Nicknamed the “Miracle City,” Armenia has grown more powerful out of its ashes. The city is now the gateway for thousands of tourists each year looking to visit the sites of Quindío.

Salento & the Cocora Valley

Colombia Travel – Quindío Region – Photo by Héctor Herrera

This picturesque small town has held on to its traditions and is the perfect place to see traditional paisa living. From its small town pace to the famous fresh water trout served in just about every home and restaurant, Salento is the coffee region’s little piece of paradise. It is also the starting point for visits to the Cocora Valley, where you can see Colombia’s famous wax palm trees and can be reached by daily buses from Armenia.

Los Nevados National Park

The northern region of Quindío, and another short bus ride from Armenia, holds central Colombia’s highest peaks and one of the country’s best national parks. Here you can truly hike into the heart of Colombia and up into snow capped mountains. The Nevado del Ruiz volcano dominates the area but there are another half dozen volcanoes to visit as well.

Eco-Lodges and Coffee Farms

Colombia Travel – Colombia’s Coffee Region – Photo from Wikipedia

For anyone looking for a more relaxing vacation, Armenia is also the gateway to the country’s most popular eco-lodge region. In recent years, as the price of coffee has fluctuated, traditional coffee farms have opened their doors to visitors. Both small coffee fincas (farms) and larger family haciendas have set up bed and breakfast type arrangements where you can literally have your morning coffee while overlooking the fields where your beans were picked.

Couple Travel Tips

• Armenia seems to get overlooked by the big guidebook companies so don’t expect an updated chapter on the city. There aren’t many hostels in Armenia and the ones listed in the guidebooks are usually not very good or closed.
• Everyone is in such a hurry to get out of town but Armenia does have a few interesting sights itself. The local Gold Museum is a great place to learn more about the native people of this region and has surprisingly good artifacts (most regions sent the best stuff to the national museum in Bogota).
• Booking a romantic getaway with your partner on one of the small, coffee farms? If you’re not married, you might want to pretend you are. This is a very conservative and traditional area of Colombia and many of the eco-lodges are run by the grandmothers of the family.

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Colombia Travel – Islas del Rosario – Photo by Ben Bowes

When people imagine Caribbean paradise it always seems to include a nice white beach, doesn’t it? For me, Caribbean paradise is not so much a beach but a rocky little island surrounded by coral and the cleanest turquoise colored water. In Colombia, that place is the Rosario Islands.

Located about an hour or so from the historical city of Cartagena, the Rosario Islands consist of over 40 islands all protected as a National Park since 1977. Before 1977, local families from Cartagena used the islands to build vacation homes and the government allowed them to retain rights to these homes as long as they pay a yearly “rent” and obey certain conservation rules to protect the environment of the islands.

Colombia Travel – Islas del Rosario – Photo by Mario Carvajal

You can visit the islands on day trips from Cartagena or as part of a scuba diving course. While there are many small private islands, the two largest islands of the group offer activities beyond the water.

Isla Rosario

Most tours make a brief stop on the Isla Rosario to visit the Oceanario Aquarium. Travelers give this aquarium far from rave reviews and the entrance price is almost never included in your tour so be prepared. The aquarium is small and geared towards conversation rather than entertainment. There is a small dolphin show though.

Isla Grande

Colombia Travel – Isla Grande – Photo by Mario Carvajal

This is my favorite island of the bunch. As the name implies, this is the largest of the Rosario Islands and it is one of the few islands with full-time, local residents. The island is avoided by most tours and the majority of the island’s shoreline is covered with private homes and hotels. The interior of the island is a great place to wander around and has a few small communities where the workers who care for the vacation homes live with their families. There is also a great private bird sanctuary on the island that almost no tourists visit, despite it being free.

Skipping the Tour

Colombia Travel – Rosario Islands – Photo by Luz Adriana Villa A.

Most people get to the Rosario Islands as part of a tour from Cartagena. The tours cost $20-30 per person and include a very short trip to the islands, a quick chance to snorkel, and a less than amazing stop at the Oceanario Aquarium. Most of your time on the day tour is actually spent getting here or at the nearby Playa Blanca which is also on an island but not really considered part of the Rosario Islands by most locals.

Instead of going the tour route, give yourself a chance to really experience the islands. There are a number of great and affordable hotels on the islands which often include transportation as part of your stay. You will probably end up on a small, cramped speedboat but the trip will be direct and much quicker than the tourist boats.

Colombia Travel – Islas del Rosario – Photo from Wikipedia

Another option is to speak to the sailboat captains in the Cartagena harbor. There is a large market for taking tourists to Panama but a number of the sailors are also willing to take you out to the islands for a weekend. This is the absolute best way to visit the islands as you can literally put down anchor and swim through the crystal clear waters to shore.

Couple Travel Tips

• Take sunscreen with you! There aren’t any “stores” on the islands and if you forget or run out of sunscreen, you will regret it, especially if you are staying for a few days.
• Explore the islands by yourself even if you end up on a tour. They drop you off and expect you to stay at the “beach” but you will likely have time to wander around and see the real homes and people living on the islands, not just the beach front hotels.
• There are rumors that the first “hostel” has opened up on Isla Grande. Head to the Casa de la Chicheria in Cartagena to ask about it; this is the same family who apparently is opening the hostel.

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If you follow travel related news, you might have recently heard the story of Garret Hand and Jamie Neal. These two travelers from the US ended up “missing” in Peru last month. After a frantic search by friends and family that made its way all the way to the mainstream media, the couple was found safe and sound on a boat in the Peruvian Amazon. They had simply been having such a great time, in this remote corner of Peru, that they had completely forgotten to call home.

Well, if this sounds like your type of South American adventure, I have a few more remote places that would be great places to “disappear” for awhile.

The Darien Gap

South America Travel – Darien Gap – Photo from Wikipedia

Note: I said these are great places to disappear, as in remote with little internet access or connections with the outside world; I did not say safe. If you go to the Darien Gap, you will definitely disappear… but you also might not come back.

South America Travel – FARC Rebels in the Darien Gap – Photo from Wikipedia

This 125 mile of land sits at the border between Panama and Colombia. It is a landscape of mountains and jungles, rivers and swamps. The Pan-American Highway which stretches over harsh landscapes from the very tip of Patagonia in Argentina to the very top of Alaska has only one break – the Darien Gap. No roads, no real settlements, and controlled by rebel groups – this is a place where you seriously might disappear for good.

Laguna San Rafael National Park

South America Travel – Laguna San Rafael National Park – Photo by Ralf Peek

This national park in Chile showed up on the Forbes list of “Most Remote Places in the World” for good reason. Located at the very end of the world, the Laguna San Rafael National Park is huge with over 6,720 square miles of wilderness. Glaciers fill the valleys and the only way in is by ships and small boats.

If is wasn’t remote enough, adventurers and mountaineers head into this region for weeks at a time to test themselves in the pristine wilderness. Imagine camping on a glacier, hundreds of miles from a reliable internet connection. Stay here long enough and you really will have disappeared.

The Jungles of Suriname

Suriname isn’t necessarily remote but it sure is unknown. Even if you do get the chance to call home, when you tell them you are in Suriname, there is a good chance they are going to be wondering how you got to Africa.

South America Travel – Suriname – Photo by Daveness_98

Suriname is one of those tiny countries above Brazil on the Caribbean coast of South America. It is an old Dutch colony but the country actually has an incredible mix of cultures and in the capital city, it is quite normal to hear people speaking everything from Dutch to Hindi to Sranan Tongo (a local Creole language with lots of English, Dutch, and Portuguese influence).

If you truly want to get lost, head south and into the jungle. As you travel the roads will slowly go from paved to dirt to mud trails and eventually end at one of the rivers. From there you’re only option is to hop a boat and continue deep into the jungle. The only people you run into now are the descendants of African slaves who escaped to these deep forest communities. This area of Suriname is slightly more connected to the outside world now-a-days thats to a mini-gold rush happening in the country’s interior but you’ll still be one of the few and possibly the only tourists this far south.

Couple Travel Tips

• Have an adventure and get a little lost; it’s all part of the fun. You probably should warn your family back home that you’ll be out of touch for awhile though.
• If you really are considering going to the Darien Gap, reconsider, and if not, your “safest” option would be to team up with one of the 4×4 jeep trips that occasionally attempt the journey.
• Make sure you have excellent travel insurance if you plan on going off the beaten path. The cost of an airvac out of the middle of the jungle could definitely put a damper on your trip.

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Colombia Travel – Bogota at Night – Photo from Wikipedia

So often the backpacker travel style can leave you in a rut where dressing up means putting on a “clean” set of pants and “going out” for the night means a beer at the hostel bar. This is a shame, especially in countries like Colombia where the nightlife is a vital part of the culture. Colombians love to dress up and go out – for dancing, drinking, and socializing.

Bogota, being the capital, has some of the best bars and restaurants in all of South America. Most backpackers stay in the La Candelaria area but for a true local nightlife experience, you need to head north.

Plan to visit Medellin too? Check out our favorite Travel Guide..

Zona Rosa

Colombia Travel – Zona Rosa in Bogota – Photo by DDirac

Starting around Calle 79 and between Carreras 11-15, Zona Rosa is one of Bogota’s hippest neighborhoods. It has a youthful vibe and enough clubs and bars to keep you busy for a year full of weekends. The Zone is very popular with upperclass Colombians and the prices reflect this. Most of the clubs charge covers and speciality parties or events can cost you up to 50,000 pesos just to get in.

On the edges of the zone, the clubs get a bit smaller and cheaper. These bars also tend to attract a slightly younger crowd. In the center of the zone, the larger clubs sit side-by-side with equally popular casinos, boutique shops, and a mall filled with only the highest name-brand designers. Head here on the weekends, even if you can’t afford the cover charges, to just people watch. This is where you will see the whos-whos of Colombia all dressed to kill.

Zona T

Colombia Travel – Zona T in Bogota – Photo by Corona

In the center of Zona Rosa is a small zone – Zona T – named after the T shaped intersection of two pedestrian-only streets. This is the best place to head if your idea of a night-out is more about a nice dinner then a loud club. The two streets are lined with great restaurants (try Wok for great Asian food) and more casual bars (the Irish pub is a favorite of foreigners and locals alike).

If you can’t make it to Zona T at night, stop by this area at least for an afternoon. The sidewalk cafes fill up with a diverse crowd at lunch everyday and there are sometimes art exhibits displayed down the center of the street.

Parque de la 93

Colombia Travel – Parque de la 93 in Bogota – Photo from Wikipedia

Just a few blocks further along, you’ll hit Zona G, the Gourmet District, which lines a beautiful park. Parque 93 is worth a visit in itself, but perhaps better during a clear day, when locals come out to soak of the occasional warmth of the sun, than at night when it can get a bit deserted. All around the park though are high end restaurants and more dance clubs as well.

The nightclubs here are equally as expensive as in Zona Rosa but there is a bit more diversity in the restaurants – ranging from budget crepe cafes to the famous gourmet Astrid & Gaston restaurant.

Couple Travel Tips

• Don’t wander too far from the center of the action. This area of Bogota is safe but a few streets in the “wrong” direction and you’re chances of getting robbed go up quickly.
• Budget for a night out carefully. Bogota is not a cheap city when it comes to the nightlife. Bar and restaurant prices often match or exceed what you might be accustomed to back home.
• Please, for the reputation of all poor backpackers, leave the hiking sandals back at the hostel. This area of Bogota has some of the best dressed people in Colombia. So, pull out the least wrinkled item in your bag and enjoy a rare night of “luxury.”

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Colombia Travel – Cabo de La Vela – Photo by Tanenhaus

Imagine the most beautiful, empty desert landscape – sand dunes and flat plains for as far as the eye can see – untouched by modern man. Now imagine this landscape pouring right down to the Caribbean sea. That is the beauty of Cabo de La Vela, a place in the very Northeastern corner of Colombia where the browns and golds of the desert mix with the blues and greens of the sea.

This is not a place seen by many outsiders. Not because it is a hidden secret – every Colombia has heard of the beautiful, deserted beaches and picturesque landscape and every guidebook to Colombia has at least a small section on the area. The real reason so few people visit – it’s really hard to get here.

Getting There

Colombia Travel – Cabo de la Vela

Colombia is an amazing country when it comes to public transportation. You can literally drop me anywhere and I’ll make it home, using only public transportation. Cabo de La Vela is no different but it definitely makes the process harder.

First, you have to head to Riohacha, the last real city before you hit the desert. In the city, ask for the Uribia shared taxis which are usually parked all together a few blocks from the beach. Uribia is a fascinating little city itself – the cultural center of the native Wayuu people. If you are lucky, you’ll have some time to wander around before taking the last “taxi,” usually a 4×4 jeep colectivo, to Cabo de La Vela. Make sure you only get in a vehicle that looks up to the task – the drive to Cabo de La Vela is over two hours along a flat, sandy unpaved road where it is all too easy to get stuck.

Cabo de La Vela

Colombia Travel – The Wayuu Tribe – Photo by Tanenhaus

Once you are in Cabo de La Vela, it is time to relax and enjoy its empty paradise of sand and sea. Rent a hammock or a tent to sleep on the beach from local “hostels.” You can also hire the local men to drive you to nearby beaches where you will literally have the place to yourself. Be sure you also check out the Cerro Kamachi, a hill sacred to the Wayuu. You can climb to the top of the hill for incredible views of the surrounding area and to watch the sunset over the Caribbean.

Cabo de La Vela is remote and while the hostels are usually clean and well-kept, you are literally in the middle of nowhere so don’t expect much in the way of comfort. The power is cut off at night and you might have to take a bucket shower but you’ll never see such bright star filled skies or get the chance to swim in such picturesque waters.

Colombia Travel – Cabo de La Vela – Photo by Mario Carvajal

Couple Travel Tips

• If you are going to bring snacks or drinks with you, take the trash back with you.. all the way to Riohacha. Plenty of tourists notice and complain about the littering and trash issue in Uribia and Cabo de La Vela. The truth though is that the people here have no garbage dump or way to process your plastic trash. Take it back to the city where it will be properly disposed of.
• You’ll need to wake up early if you ever want to leave. Shared jeeps from Cabo de La Vela leave between 4 and 5 in the morning, taking the local people to work in Uribia. If you miss the early morning ride, you’ll be stuck until the next day.
• Buy one of the famous Wayuu Mochilas. They bags are a great travel accessory, big enough to hold anything, and are one of the most iconic Colombian souvenirs. Plus, this is where they are made by hand by the Wayuu women and you’ll get the best quality for the best price.

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Latin America Travel – Dance Classes

Plenty of people head to Latin America with plans to take intensive Spanish classes. It’s a great way to learn, but you will be stuck behind a desk for a large portion of your trip. If you still want an educational trip but you already know Spanish or just don’t want to sit in a classroom half the time, think about taking dance lessons instead.

It almost seems that people in this area of the world are born dancing. Music pours out of nearly every home and on the weekends, the bars fill up with couples dancing ’til sunrise. This is where salsa and tango were born; where superstars like Shakira first learned to dance.

First, you have to decide which type of Latin dance you would like to learn. Plenty of schools offer a mix of all the popular styles but different regions are known for different dances and you will get the best lessons if you head to the right place.

Tango

For tango, you obviously have to head to Argentina. In Buenos Aires, you can watch tango dancers dancing on street corners or come during the yearly Tango Buenos Aires Festival and World Cup and watch world famous dancers on the city’s best stages. Dance studios exist all over the city and many cater to tourists and foreigners. You can book intensive one week courses or stay for a few months and learn to be a real expert.

Salsa in Cali

For salsa, there are plenty of places you can learn but one of the best would be Cali, Colombia. The salsa here is world famous and it has a very unique style that is growing in popularity in the salsa dancing world. Colombians are very friendly and great teachers. You could just show up at a bar and in most cases a local will offer to teach you a few steps. You’ll probably want to invest in a class though as the talent in Cali is incredibly and you’ll definitely feel like you have two left feet if you don’t at least get the basics down before heading out to the local salsa clubs.

Reggaeton

If you are in the Caribbean area, look for champeta and reggaeton lessons. You’ll hear the the music everywhere and the both dance types are really fun, energetic, sexy dances. The beats have African roots and represent the afro-american influence on latin dance. Champeta dancing can be found at nearly every Caribbean party while reggaeton is more a club style dance.

Dance and Learn Spanish

Why not combine the best of both worlds and take a Dance/Spanish class? Look for companies that offer combination classes, where you learn Spanish part of the day, learn to dance later in the day, and put both lessons to practice by heading out to local dance clubs on the weekends. You can really improve both skills quickly and can put your new Spanish skills to use in a relaxed, dance environment.

So often travel is just about seeing the sites but it should be about so much more. Travel gives you a chance to connect with new people, understand a new culture, and learn new skills. It can be the best education money can buy and it will be even more so if you invest in a few great classes while on your trip. Whether you decide to take a Spanish class, dance classes, a combination, or decide to learn something completely different, either way you will be taking your trip beyond the typical backpackers party tour.

Couple Travel Tips

• Ask about special couple dance lessons. If you aren’t comfortable in large classes, you can often book private lessons with your partner.
• Go out with your classmates and teachers after lessons. It can be a great way to meet new travelers and the dance instructors will know all the best local dance clubs.
• Before you pay for a week or full month long class, ask if you can sit in on a lesson first. You be able to check to see if the teachers style works for you and to see how the lessons are set up.

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Colombia Travel – Playa Blanca

Cartagena is easily one of my favorite cities in South America, with beautiful colonial homes and a laid back Caribbean lifestyle. One thing the city is lack though are beautiful Caribbean beaches.

The beaches in Cartagena are brown sand instead of white and crowded with too many people on most weekends. It doesn’t seem to bother most of the city’s visitors – people come here for the parties not the beach – but thankfully you can still get a beautiful beach experience if you are willing to take a little side trip.

Playa Blanca

Playa Blanca (the white beach) is actually located on the island of Baru about 1 hour or so by boat from the main port of Cartagena. It is a beautiful, clean beach that fits the picture of the Caribbean paradise perfectly. The water here is calm and warm making it a great place to snorkel and swim.

Colombia Travel – Playa Blanca

Playa Blanca has also become a bit of a tourist hotspot and even locals from Cartagena head out to the beach on the weekends. You can find plenty of great little beach shack restaurants, bars, and hostels. Unfortunately, along with the increase in tourism came a large increase in the number of beach hawkers. You will be asked to buy everything from ceviche to massages. If you aren’t interested, avoid eye contact and just say “no gracias.”

Day Trips

Most people visiting Playa Blanca do so on a half or full day tour from Cartagena. You can book a boat ride or tour from the harbor in Cartagena or from your hostel. Avoid booking from the men on the streets. They are known for making up “free extras” to sell the tours and outright lying to people.

Colombia Travel – Playa Blanca Boats

If you do book a tour, you’ll have a few options. First, many of the tours are sold as trips to the “Islas del Rosario” but Playa Blanca is not actually part of the Rosario Islands. The beach is located nearby though and many tours stop here first for an hour or so before heading out to the Rosario Islands. You can also opt for just a trip to Playa Blanca. The tours will leave you there and pick you back up when they return from the Rosario Islands. This option is great if you are more of a beach person and don’t want to feel rushed. You will miss a few sites (aquarium, good snorkeling opportunities) on the Rosario part of the tour.

Colombia Travel – Playa Blanca

Whether you choose to stay at the beach all day or combine a Playa Blanca and Rosario Islands tour, always always make sure you book your tour on the “fast boat.” There is a rather large tourist boat that does the trip and takes forever to get to the beach or you can get a fast speed boat that gets there in an hour or less. The small boats can be painful on your back, bumping up and down in the waves the whole ride, but you will get to the beach in half the time.

An Overnight Trip

An even better option than booking a day tour is to plan an overnight trip at the beach. Very few tourists do this which means you will have the beach almost to yourself. The tour boats don’t start arriving to Playa Blanca until around 10am and they are all gone by 4-5pm. You’ll have the whole morning to yourself and the sunset all to yourself as well. Plus, most of the beach vendors don’t show up until the tourist do so the beach is much more relaxing as well.

Colombia Travel – Playa Blanca – Photo by fabiantheblind

To stay overnight, you can ask the boat tour companies to split your trip, dropping you off one morning and not picking you back up until the following afternoon. Only a few of the companies will do this though and it can be hard to guarantee you have a ride back. Another option is to just book a ride out to the beach and once you are ready to leave, “hitchhike” back in by asking the various tour boats if they have any extra room heading back. Most locals actually head to Playa Blanca on the weekend by land. The Island of Baru is just barely off the coast and you can do a combination of bus, ferry, and cab to reach the beach or to head back to the city.

Colombia Travel – Playa Blanca Restaurant

Be prepared for simple beach accommodations if you plan to stay overnight. Most of the beach hostels have the bare basics of a room or just hammocks in the trees. Its a great experience, sleeping in a hammock to the sounds of the ocean nearby, but you might want to leave your big backpacks in Cartagena at your hostel. Most will hold your bags without charging for a day or two.

Colombia Travel – Typical Playa Blanca Meal

Couple Travel Tips

• Be sure you at least stop and have lunch at Playa Blanca. The crab is delicious and fresh out of the ocean.
• If you stay overnight, you might want to bring some snacks. There are plenty of cheap restaurants on the beach but you won’t have access to a market or shop.
• Most people either try and visit both the Rosario Islands and Playa Blanca in one day or skip the Islands all together. The Islands are gorgeous and not to be missed though and your best option is to try and split them up, visiting the beach one day (and staying overnight) and then heading to the Islands for an afternoon.

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Colombia Travel – Santa Marta Beach – Photo from Wikipedia

I’ll be honest; Santa Marta is a city I love to hate. Located on the Caribbean coast of Colombia, in the northeastern region of the country, Santa Marta is usually seen by backpackers as no more than a stop over on the way to the famous Tayrona Park or to the hippie beach town of Taganga.

Ask Colombians though, especially ones from Bogota, and you’ll hear all about how Santa Marta is a beautiful city on the beach and a great place to vacation. It is a city of contrasts and a city that very clearly draws the line between tourists visiting for the beaches and locals who actually live there. For a broke backpacker, it’s a city that has even less appeal.

Incredible Beach Resorts Or A Dirty City

Santa Marta has a few distinct areas, which often leads to the the wildly different stories and experiences visitors have to the city.

Usually the people with stories of beautiful beaches and incredible sunsets stayed in the resort neighborhood of El Rodadero. Located about 10 minutes from the center of the city, El Rodadero caters mainly to rich Colombian tourists. High-rise hotels and all-inclusive resorts line the perfectly white sand beaches. The neighborhood has incredible spas, restaurants, and nightclubs. When visiting El Rodadero, it is easy to see why so many people end up loving Santa Marta.

Colombia Travel – Santa Marta Port – Photo from Wikipedia

In contrast, many backpackers have stories of a hot, dusty, and crowded city. They were most certainly staying in the old city center. Santa Marta is one of the most important seaports in Colombia and cargo ships can be seen loading and unloading at the docks, located right next to the old city center. The problem is that a lot of the cargo coming out of this port is coal which leads to a good amount of dusty, polluted air. Besides that, the city center, like most South American cities can get uncomfortably packed on a typical weekday. Walking down the main street must be done single-file since the other half of the sidewalk is always filled with street vendors and very shop seems to think blasting incredibly loud “Everything is on Sale!” recording out their front doors will attract shoppers. It can be overwhelming to say the least.

Colombia Travel – Santa Marta Market

Beautiful Beaches, No Relaxation

So, to get away from the city noise, you want to head to the beach. Again, Santa Marta ends up being a city of contrasts. The central beach in the heart of the city is small and usually packed with locals. The water is decently clean but on the far end of the beach, the neighborhood gets sketchy and the beach is not safe in the early evening or at night.

On the other hand, just a few miles north or south of the city you end up on gorgeous white sand beaches. In the rich neighborhood of El Rodadero, the beaches might look beautiful but good luck getting getting an peace or quiet. Beach vendors roam the beaches from sunup to sundown and are very aggressive. At the other end of the city, the small fishing village turned hippie, backpacker hangout also has great beaches but can often turn into a big party of drugged or drunk backpackers.

The Positive Side

Colombia Travel – Amazing Colombian Beaches

Ok, so I have been pretty harsh on Santa Marta. It was a city that got under my skin and left me with a bad feeling but in actuality, this is a working port city that does have some appeal. It’s not your typical pretty beach town but it is the stepping off place for some of the most beautiful places in Colombia. The true value of Santa Marta is what surrounds it. From the cheap scuba lessons in Taganga to the world class beaches of Tayrona National Park to the majestic snow capped Sierra Nevada mountains, Santa Marta does in fact live up to its nickname – La Perla de America (America’s Pearl). Just think of the city as the small ugly rock that the pearl grew around…

Couple Travel Tips

• Santa Marta is not a city where you want to opt for the cheapest hostels, which are located in the city center but at the far end of the beach. Wander half a block further and you will end up in a very bad part of town.
• Santa Marta is the best place to book tours of the surrounding areas. The largest, most reliable companies operate out of the city center.
• If you are leaving the city and heading to Cartagena, book a minibus (Marsol or Cochetur) instead of heading to the bus station. You will end up saving yourself hours of travel time and only pay a few dollars more.

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Passion is a word I fully understood only after visiting and living in South America. Here the word means so much more and you can feel it literally the moment you walk into any good bar or club. The people of Latin America fall in love fast and use terms of endearment so easily and frequently, you’d think the whole South American continent was in love.

If you happen to find yourself in Latin America with your partner on Valentine’s Day this year, consider yourself lucky. It is truly a place of love and there are an unlimited number of romantic places to visit. Here is a short list of some of the most romantic…

Cartagena, Colombia

Latin America Travel – Cartagena, Colombia

I might be a bit bias; Cartagena is the city where I met and fell in love with my fiance. Oddly enough, the moment I arrived in the city I remember thinking that it was a city made for couples.

With gorgeous little restaurants and boutique hotels, balconies overflowing with flowers, and salsa music (and dancers) pouring out of the city’s best bars, it is easy to see why Cartagena is a city of love and passion. This is a city known internationally for the movie “Romancing the Stone” and for Gabriel García Márquez book “Love in the Time of Cholera.” If you end up here this February 14th, treat yourself to a nice dinner and a romantic nighttime stroll along the city walls.

Maya Riviera

Latin America Travel – Maya Riviera – Photo from Wikipedia

Cancun is a city known more for one-night-stands than one-true-loves but head out of the city and you will find that the Mexican Riviera is easily one of the world’s most romantic places. For proof, just check out how many people head here for their honeymoons.

Your best bet is to book yourself into a nice spa and resort. Many places even offer special deals for Valentine’s Day like 2 for 1 couple’s spa packages or romantic beachside dinners.

Buenos Aires

Latin America Travel – Tango in Buenos Aires – Photo by prayitno

A city of tango and a touch of European elegance, Buenos Aires is a hot spot for romance. It’s a great place to spend Valentine’s Day if you are into more than relaxing on a beach and offers many activities from tango lessons to sailing tours in the northern district of Tigre.

Palermo is one of the city’s more romantic neighborhoods with plenty of romantic hotels, nice restaurants, and large parks for scrolling hand in hand with your lover. Plus, February is still summer time in the southern hemisphere. Take advantage of this fact and plan a nice picnic lunch for your sweetheart.

Jungle Lodge

Latin America Travel – Jungle in Ecuador – Photo by Dallas Krentzel

If your idea of a romantic getaway is being completely removed from the hectic day-to-day of life, you should consider booking a jungle lodge stay. Imagine waking up in the middle of nowhere, miles from the nearest town, to the sound of monkeys in the trees.

I would suggest opting for a more luxury jungle lodge if you are visiting for a romantic getaway. Lousy mosquito nets and nice cold showers don’t always spell out romance. Luckily though well over half of the countries in Latin America offer places where you and your partner can reconnect with nature and enjoy a private jungle experience.

Chilean Patagonia

Latin America Travel – Chilean Patagonia – Photo by Jeremy Vandel

Plenty of people head to Patagonia in Argentina but for the perfect Valentine’s Day getaway, I would suggest hopping across the border to Chile. The crowds are thinner and the proximity between the coast and the Andes mountains means you can enjoy a nice wine tour and still be back to the coast in time for a fresh seafood dinner.

The prices in Patagonia, especially in the summer months, can be very high but on the positive side, it’s not every Valentine’s Day that you have the chance to tell your partner “te amo” from atop a glacier.

Couple Travel Tips

• Valentine’s Day is not really celebrated in many Latin American countries, at least not like back home. On the positive side this means you won’t have to worry about booking dinner reservations a month in advance.
• As a backpacker, you probably don’t have a huge budget to work with but a splurge on a nice hotel or dinner will be worth it in the long run. Traveling as a couple can put a lot of stress on a relationship and it’s good to take pause and be grateful you have someone to travel the world with.
• Though it might be slightly unethical, telling the hotel or restaurant you are on your honeymoon can often score you a free upgrade or bottle of wine.

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South America Travel – Carnival – Photo By sfmission

Carnival is easily the biggest yearly event in South America. Not only due tourists and travelers from every inch of the globe flock to Rio, the whole continent uses the upcoming Lent as an excuse to throw a party.

The basic idea behind Carnival, for those that don’t know, is tied to the Catholic church and the period of Lent before Easter. During Lent, one is suppose to refrain from parties, rich foods, and other indulgences. Carnival, usually celebrated the week before Lent (but in some places up to a month in advance), is the last big party and celebration before Lent.

While many travelers want to head to Rio, plenty of others are looking to avoid the crowds, hiked up prices, and flood of other tourists. Rio might get all the fame but here are three other great Carnival celebrations a bit off the beaten track.

Oruro, Bolivia

South America Travel – Carnival de Oruro – Photo by José Porras

You know it’s going to be good when UNESCO declares it a “Masterpiece of Oral Heritage and Intangible Heritage of Humanity.”

The celebration in the central Bolivian city of Oruro takes place for up to 10 days before Lent but the real party starts the weekend before when the famous La Diablada parade starts. This parade, called the Dance of the Devils, features incredibly complex costumes and dancers who perform demonic like dances. At the end of the parade the dancers preform a symbolic dance of good vs. evil before everyone heads to church at dawn for a mass where good is pronounced the winner.

Barranquilla, Colombia

South America Travel – Colombia Carnival – Photo from Wikipedia

What could possibly make Carnival even better? How about a Caribbean African vibe and a country known for great parties? Barranquilla, a city located on the Northern coast of Colombia has a Carnival that attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors every year.

To start things off, head to La Batalla de Flores (Battle of the Flowers) where all the different dance groups, floats, musicians, and other performers try and outdo each other with non-stop dancing and music you can hear for miles. From there, you can expect another 4 days of nearly constant parties, parades, and performances.

Salvador, Brazil

South America Travel – Salvador Carnaval – Photo from Wikipedia

When it comes to Carnival in Brazil, everyone is in Rio, right? Wrong. Head north to the coastal city of Salvador and enjoy what is actually the Guinness Book of Records holder for “biggest party on the planet.” In a good year, Salvador will be host to close to a million visitors and another million or so locals all coming to party and dance!

The party officially begins the Thursday before Lent and the parades almost never stop for the next 6 days. You can participate as a Pipoca, which translates as popcorn and means to dance in the streets with the large crowds for free (popcorn because of the way the jumping crowd looks from a distance). If you are not such a fan of being packed in, buy a Camarote ticket which lets you into a less crowded closed off area where you can get food, drink, and dance with a bit more space.

Couple Travel Tips

• Bring your camera to a Carnival celebration at your own risk. Sure the pictures are going to be amazing but if the Carnival is any good, you are going to come out of it covered in water, flour, paint, and who knows what else.
• Be aware of pickpockets and bag snatchers. In such dense crowds it is all too easy for someone to grab your stuff and vanish before you even notice.
• Book your hotel or hostel ahead of time, especially if you are a couple looking for a private room. Rooms in the major Carnival cities can sell out months or even a year in advance.

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Colombia Travel – La Candelaria

My first taste of Colombia, a country that would later become my second home, was the old historic neighborhood of La Candelaria in Bogota. Near the heart of the city, La Candelaria is very popular with tourists and backpackers and where the majority of the city’s hostels are located. It is a beautiful neighborhood with 300+ year old buildings, quaint little streets, graffiti that shows the incredible talent of the city’s artists, and the city’s main art, history, and gold museums.

The barrio has a young, bohemian feel and there are actually a number of universities located in La Candelaria. Students fill up the local bars on the weekend and there is plenty of street food and entertainment throughout the night.

Besides being a fun neighborhood, La Candelaria is perfectly situated in the downtown of Bogota, near most of the city’s major sites. The barrio is located above Carrera 7 and south of Calle 14.

What to See & Do

Colombia Travel – Botero Museum in Bogota

Botero Museum – Colombia’s most famous artist, Botero, is known internationally as the guy who “paints fat people.” The museum in Bogota is quite large and displays not only works by Botero but also a number of paintings from his own private collection by the artists Monet and Picasso.

Colombia Travel – Gold Museum

The Gold Museum – Located in front of Santander Park, the Gold Museum is one of the largest and most important museums in Colombia. Gold is what made Colombia a powerful Spanish colony and helped finance the country after it won its independence from Spain. The museum has over 36,000 pieces of gold and artifacts from Colombia’s past. The indigenous groups of Colombia were expert gold craftsmen and it is a miracle their work wasn’t all melted down in the gold rush of the Spanish colonization.

Colombia Travel – Plaza de Bolívar

Plaza de Bolívar – If you are looking for the heart and center of Bogota, this is it. The plaza, named after the famous Simón Bolívar who helped lead the movement for independence from Spain, was the original center of Bogota and contains the city’s National Capital, the Primary Cathedral of Bogota, and the Palace of Justice for Colombia.

Colombia Travel – Monserrate

Monserrate and Iglesia de La Candelaria – The hill (or rather mountain) of Monserrate stands over the city and can be seen from most neighborhoods. It serves as a pilgrim destination but also a tourist one. You can walk up the mountain (not recommended as it can be dangerous) or take a tram up. At the top there is a church as well as a restaurant, a few small cafes, and a number of souvenir/tourist shops. It is a great place to watch the sun set over the city.

Couple Travel Tips

• Be very careful at night in La Candelaria. This is not the safest section of the city and muggings are common.
• If you do decide to go to the top of Monserrate, dress warm. The wind at the summit can be very strong and the higher elevation means the temperature is quite a bit lower than in La Candelaria.
• La Candelaria is home to many nice restaurants and bars but if you are looking for a nice date night out, consider heading north to the more modern sections of the city.

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The Colombian Flag – Photo from Wikipedia

It happens to many a traveler – you head to South America on a normal backpacking trip, with an end date in sight and a return flight home. Suddenly though, you find yourself in a place you can’t imagine leaving and going home doesn’t seem like such a good idea anymore. For me that place was Colombia.

Over the last two years I have spent about half of my time in Colombia and the other half traveling and living in various countries in South America. My original plan? A 3 month backpacking trip through Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, and Bolivia. If you had told me I’d never end up going home, and that I would have decided to live in Colombia, I would have said you were crazy.

If you do end up falling in love with Colombia, or any of the other countries in South America, you will have to navigate the oh-so-annoying long term visa process. Here are my tips on surviving the process in Colombia after two years of doing it.

The Tourist Visa Rules

Colombia Travel – Tourist Visa

First, it’s good to understand the standard tourist visa rules since you are likely to first enter the country on this sort of visa. The government agency in Colombia that use to be in charge of issuing visas has actually been completely replaced over the last year or so. DAS (Departamento Administrativo de Seguridad) was shut down (many say due to corruption) and replace by Unidad Administrativa Especial Migracion. This change was very, very good for foreigners for a number of reasons, but mainly because it made the whole tourist visa process a bit more predictable.

It use to be that arriving in Colombia, any place besides Bogota, got you a 30 day tourist visa. In Bogota you would be given 60 days and if you were incredibly lucky, you could ask and receive 90 days. Now, whether you arrive by plane or overland, you will most likely receive 90 days without even having to ask for it.

Staying Long Term

So your 90 days in Colombia is almost up and you don’t want to leave? You have a few options for staying longer.

Colombia Travel – “The Only Risk is Wanting to Stay”

The easiest and most common option is to simply extend your tourist visa. The law in Colombia actually states that foreigners, from most countries, can stay in Colombia for a maximum of 6 months every year. After your initial 3 months is up, you can visit a Unidad Administrativa Especial Migracion office (still referred to by many as a DAS office) and renew your visa for another 3 months. The process is pretty straightforward – you have to deposit a set amount of money in a specific bank account before going to the immigration office. The amount and account number changes occasionally so it is best to go to the office, get the information, pay at the bank, and then come back for the actual extension. Once you have the bank receipt, you fill out a few forms, have your fingerprints taken, and eventually you are given another 90 days. The whole process can be done in less than a day.

Crossing the Colombia Ecuador Border – Photo by fabulousfabs

Alternatively, you can also just hop across the border to Venezuela or Ecuador or sail to Panama and back. When you reenter Colombia, you will be given another 90 days again. This is a more expensive option but great if you have the time and want to see a bit more of South America.

Want to stay even longer? You can also apply for a student visa pretty easily which will allow you to stay for a full calendar year. Immigration lawyers in Colombia often push this option, even to people with no interest in studying, because it is so easy. Many Spanish schools set up classes just for expats using this visa and the visa is similar in price to an extended tourist visa (though a bit more complicated due to additional paperwork and school fees).

Couple Travel Tips

• Always check your visa as soon as the officer stamps it in your passport. They typically give 90 days but have been known to give as little as 20.
• Overstaying your visa in Colombia is a serious issue and I’d strongly suggest avoiding it. Occasionally you will get lucky and just get a fine but I had one friend physically deported and banned from Colombia for overstaying a month.
• If you are leaving Colombia and traveling to Panama by boat, be sure you give your passports to the captain the day before. There isn’t a immigration office at the port and it can take a day or so to get officially “checked out” of the country. The captains will usually handle the immigration part for you the day before you sail.

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Colombia Travel – Bogota Streets

What’s one of the worst parts of city living? I vote for traffic clogged streets filled with smog producing old cars, loud horns blaring, and grumpy commuters. Unfortunately, this is an almost universal issue with cities around the world. Even with a greater focus on pollution and more cities investing in public transportation, it will likely be many, many years before we are able to completely give up the automobile. Another side effect of this car loving city culture – unhealthy citizens who would rather hail a cab than walk a few blocks. Wouldn’t it be nice if we could reclaim the ugliness of our roads and promote health and safety, even if just for one day?

Well, Bogota, the capital of Colombia, has already done just that. Every Sunday from 7am to 2pm major roadways throughout the city are closed to motorized traffic. Instead, the roads fill up with literally millions of bikers, joggers, and roller skaters. The event is so popular that an estimated 2 million residents (around 30% of the cities total population) come out to participate every week.

Ciclovía

Bogota Ciclovía – Photo by Cidades para Pessoas

Known as Ciclovía, which translates to mean bike path, the closure of the city’s roads actually dates back to the late 1970s. Over the years it has spread to other Colombian cities and even across the continent. In the beginning only a few roads were closed but now, in Bogota alone, over 120 km of roadways are closed to traffic and opened to the public.

Residents come out to enjoy the usually good Bogota morning weather, walking, biking, or skating along. Street vendors set up small stands selling almost anything you might need and delicious street food is plentiful. You will see little kids learning to ride their first bike, couples skating along hand-in-hand, elderly woman enjoying their morning stroll, and almost every other type of person you can imagine. What you won’t see, or hear, are noisy smelly cars, trucks, or city buses.

Colombia Travel – Bogota Street Food

In 2007 a Colombia congressman tried to shorten the Ciclovía, having it end at 12 instead of 2pm, due to the traffic build up that can occur on side streets as cars try and avoid the closed avenues. The proposal was protested and shut down almost immediately but the many people who see the Ciclovía as their reclaiming of the city and as a public service.

This is far more than a stroll through the city’s streets. A number of other activities also occur during the Sunday Ciclovía. Yoga and fitness instructors are known to set up free sidewalk lessons while stages are set up in local parks off the avenues with live local bands and theater groups performing. Unicycles, jugglers, fire twirlers, and other street performers also seem to pop up every few blocks.

Colombia Travel – Sunday in Plaza Bolivar, Bogota

If you are in Bogota on a Sunday, forget the sightseeing and save yourself the headache of sitting in side street traffic. Ask your hostel if they rent out bikes or skates; if not, head down anyways for a nice stroll and a great opportunity to see Bogota’s local lifestyle.

Couple Travel Tips

• The Ciclovía is usually very safe, with lots of people and plenty of police officers. That being said, watch your stuff, especially as bikers and skaters go zooming by you. Bags have been known to be swiped.
• After walking or biking your way through the city, stop by the second most popular Sunday activity – one of the city’s many flea markets. The best markets are usually the Usaquen Flea Market and the Mercado de Pulgas San Alejo.
• Catch Bogota on a cold, rainy Sunday? Don’t feel bad about cutting your walk short and head into a local cafe to warm up with typical Colombian hot chocolate served with cheese… yep, cheese!

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Cartagena’s Fiestas de Independencia – Photo by Eneas

Let me give you all a tip: visit Cartagena in the second week of November. Just at the end of the rainy season, Cartagena has the biggest celebration probably anywhere in Colombia – parades, parties day and night, live music, world famous salsa dancers, traditional performances of dance and music, the national beauty pageant, and much, much more!

The whole event is in honor of Cartagena’s independence from Spain in 1811. This small but wealthy city was the first province to declare independence and led the movement for the eventual independence of the whole country.

If you are lucky enough to end up in Cartagena this week (be sure to book your hostel or hotel early because they all fill up) here are just some of the fun activities you should check out.

Colombia Travel – La Batalla de las Flores

La Batalla de las Flores

The kick off to the week of festivals is a huge parade down Avenida Santander. Bright floats filled with flowers carry each of the beauty pageant contestants. There are also local dance groups and musician, and costumed locals in everything from traditional Spanish colonial costumes to costumes representing the Africa culture and influence in the region.

The best place to watch the parade is from the city walls. The good spots fill up quickly and if you do get stuck in the crowd at the foot of the wall, watch your camera and wallet. This is prime time for pickpockets.

Desfile de Balleneras

If your not a big fan of huge, dense crowds the Desfile de Balleneras might be better for you. This “parade” takes place on boats in the harbor of Cartagena. The beauty pageant contestants all ride along on beautifully decorated yachts, while other locals follow in yachts, speedboats, and sailboats. The whole event invokes the memory of Cartagena back when it won independence and large ships sailed away from this harbor filled with gold heading to Spain.

Colombia Travel – Cartagena’s Harbor

Miss Colombia Pageant

The final Miss Colombia selection takes place on November 12 in the Centro de Convenciones right in the center of Cartagena. Every year they get big name performers for the show, which means tickets are very hard to come by. Most locals just watch the event on tv before going out to celebrate.

If you really want to be part of the event live, you can also try and get tickets to the Desfile en Traje de Bano the day before. This event is the swimsuit competition part of the pageant and another very popular event.

And Watch Out!

It’s not all about the pageant contestants though. In fact, the contestants tend to avoid the street level events which can get incredible messy. Don’t wear anything you really like because you WILL get soaked with buckets of water, sprayed with foam, covered in flour, and smeared with paint. It’s a very fun time but it can get a little exhausting when you literally can’t walk to the market without risking a flour, foam, or paint attack.

Covered in Foam and Paint – Cartagena’s Fiestas de Independencia

Remember that it is all fun and games but if you do decide it’s a bit too much for you, book a trip out to the Rosario Islands or Playa Blanca for a relaxing break.

Couple Travel Tips

• Carry small change with you. Part of the festivals is that groups of young men roam the street covered head to foot in paint and greasy oil. You have to pay a small “toll” to escape the mess. If you don’t have any change, just try smiling and being polite and they will usually let you pass un-painted.
• Watch out for the balconies! People living above the main streets will often fill buckets with water to pour down on unsuspecting walkers.
• Join in on the fun! Wear something you’re ready to throw away, leave your camera in the hostel, buy your own can of foam, and enjoy.

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