Torres del Paine from behind the Towers

Patagonia travel triggers visions and feelings of extreme adventure for trekkers around the world.  You’ve seen the pictures on-line and you’ve heard stories about the unpredictable weather, vast glaciers, snow capped Andes mountains and the dramatic reward of hiking in Patagonia.  Are you ready to hike one of the most renowned treks in the world?  Torres del Paine National Park will satisfy that adventure craving.  We share our experience hiking in Patagonia through the Torres del Paine circuit in southern Chile.

A Guide for Hiking in Patagonia

This is a lot of useful information for hiking Torres del Paine, so we have broken up the guide into a series of posts. Be sure to check them all out.

When to Go

In Patagonia, the weather is extremely unpredictable and for most of the year unbearable to hike due to high winds, below freezing temperatures and ice.  The park remains open all year, but unless you are an experienced adventurer with ice hiking skills, you will most likely want to hike in the Summer (Nov-Mar).

High winds blow Aracely's jacket over her head while hiking Torres del Paine

Summer (Nov-Mar) is the peak season for trekking in Torres del Paine National Park, which creates over crowded campsites and trails. It’s warmest in the Summer, averaging 11ºC/ 52ºF, but the Patagonia weather still remains unpredictable with possibilities of rain, snow and high winds, which can disrupt your most anticipated trip to Torres del Paine. Low hanging clouds around the towers and dense fog can also hide the great Patagonia views of amazing landscapes and the three towers.

We arrived to Torres del Paine in mid-March when the crowds had dissipated and the weather is supposedly most stable. I admit, we got very lucky with the weather. Our trek began with 2 days of cold rain and below freezing nights. As the days progressed, the weather improved with sunny warm days and clear skies. As we descended the towers at the end of our 9-day full circuit trek, the clouds moved in, the winds picked up and the rain began. We highly encourage that you pick the time of year carefully.

Torres del Paine Towers at Sunrise

What To Bring

Since we were traveling for a full year when we planned our Patagonia hike, we didn’t have tents, sleeping bags or a camping stove.  We rented all of our equipment from Glacier de la Patagonia in Puerto Natales. They have good quality equipment all from the same manufacturer, Doite. If you are flying down to Patagonia specifically for hiking, bring your own gear from home. The quality of your gear will most likely be better and you will be saving money. Make sure your tent can withstand Patagonia winds and rain.

Hiking over the John Garner Pass on the backside of the full circuit

Sleeping bag

This is Patagonia, it is cold. We opted for the -10 degree Celsius by Doite and we still felt cold on a few nights.

Sleeping Pad

The ground is hard and cold, don’t skimp on the sleeping pad. The ones we rented weren’t very thick. Consider renting 2 if they appear thin and worn.

Tent

We rented a Himalaya Doite Tent which was the smaller one of the two that Glacier de la Patagonia offered.  Another afterthought, we should have opted for the larger tent for more comfort and little additional weight.

Warming food in the rain by our Doite tent in Torres del Paine

Cooking Stove and Pots

Keep it light. One pot and one spoon is enough for 1 person. Be sure to have a multipurpose knife. You can’t fly with the fuel needed to light your stove, but there are many places here to buy them.

Making Tea while Hiking Torres del Paine in Patagonia

Food

This was our biggest mistake. We didn’t bring enough and therefore had to buy some along the way which was very expensive. Even with end of season discounts, the food prices were jacked up.

Water is available from streams in Torres del Paine National Park

Several of the campsites have items to sell such as camping food, snacks, wine and beer. You will be hiking 6-8 hours daily and our bodies require fuel. Identify ways to keep the food weight to a minimum, but make sure you’re getting enough calories and replenishing your energy sources. You can drink water from small streams that cascade down the mountains.

The Best Lunch Picnic in Torres del Paine Patagonia

Clothing

Dress warm and avoid the cotton underwear and shirt. You will be sweating a lot and with few showers those cottons clothes will quickly stink. It will be freezing at night and either freezing during the day, or sunny and clear skies. Just focus on layers instead of big thick jackets that take up too much room. Layers are always recommended for easy taking off and putting on of clothes. Boots are absolutely necessary. We hiked on rocks, through mud and in snow at times. Pack a wind and rain breaker and hats and gloves.

Hiking Torres del Paine National Park in Chile

Other Gear

Walking sticks are optional, but we decided to rent them. I felt as though it was a good decision, but they aren’t absolutely necessary. Bring head lamps or torches, and rope for hanging wet clothes and food in the woods. If you don’t hang your food or secure it incredibly well, mice will get into it. Also bring sunglasses, sunscreen, a map of the park and toilet paper! In the winter the gear completely changes and I am not an expert in in extreme conditions, sorry.

Reading the Maps for Torres del Paine Patagonia

How to Get There

You can fly there, bus it or take the adventurous Navimag vessel through southern Chile’s islands.

The office at the entrance to Torres del Paine National Park in Patagonia

You can access Torres del Paine National Park from the gateway town of Puerto Natales. Puerto Natales provides hostels, hotels, restaurants, shopping and anything else you might need for your trek. If you plan to go during high season, be sure to book your hostel ahead of time.

Flights arrive to Punta Arenas, usually with a stopover in Puerto Montt, which lies on the Straights of Magellan. From Punta Arenas you will bus it 3 hours north to Puerto Natales.

You can bus it from Santiago, Chile, but it’s a very long 3100 km trip. If you are visiting Puerto Montt you can also fly to Punta Arenas or bus it to Puerto Natales.

In order to arrive at the entrance of Torres del Paine, catch a bus early in the morning from Puerto Natales. It’s 115 kilometers away and gates open at 8:30am

More Torres del Paine Hiking information to come!

2 Backpackers - Hiking in Patagonia – Torres del Paine Part 1 2 Backpackers - Travel around the world sharing budget travel tips, travel photos and adventure travel videos.

Watch More Adventure Travel Videos

While visiting León, Nicaragua we decide to visit the Los Maribios volcano chain again for another HD adventure travel video from 2 Backpackers, Jason and Aracely Castellani.  In travel video episode #16, WE booked a 2-day hike with Quetzaltrekkers to the mysterious El Hoyo, the “Hole.” The trek includes another attempt to descend Volcano Cerro Negro at high speeds, a grueling 1 hour climb into the volcanic complex known as Las Pilas-El Hoyo, views of El Hoyo, unexpected cloud cover, a fumarole and a much earned swim in a crater lake. Experience this 2-day trek in the Los Maribios volcano chain of Nicaragua from your computer screen. Enjoy the show!

While visiting León, Nicaragua we decide to visit the Los Maribios volcano chain again for another adventure. We booked a 2-day hike with Quetzaltrekkers to the mysterious El Hoyo, the “Hole.” The trek includes another attempt to descend Volcano Cerro Negro at high speeds, a grueling 1 hour climb into the volcanic complex known as Las Pilas-El Hoyo, views of El Hoyo, unexpected cloud cover, a fumarole and a much earned swim in a crater lake. Experience this 2-day trek in the Los Maribios volcano chain of Nicaragua from your computer screen. Enjoy the show!

León, Nicaragua

We only took a day off to recuperate from our Volcano Boarding experience. The group would be small, Aracely, Anton, two guides and I. I prefer the small groups, it gives us the opportunity to ask more questions and get more personal with the guides and other members. Anton who is from South Africa, endured the volcano boarding with us. The guides, Oli from England and Constance of Germany were the best we could have asked for. Oli was very familiar with the trek and Constance offered great support as she also learned about the area. Constance had been guiding on another hike offered by Quetzaltrekkers.

Hiking to Volcano Cerro Negro

It is a short multi-day hike, but it can be challenging. The weight of 9 liters of water, food and camping supplies will exhaust you as you climb through the volcanic complex known as Las Pilas-El Hoyo. Not only is the weight challenging, but the heat will quickly make you aware of the reason you are carrying so much water.

Volcano Cerro Negro

Smoking Volcano Cerro Negro

You don’t have to go crazy and volcano board down Cerro Negro to explore it. You can book a tour that allows you easily climb to the top and explore the smoldering crater. This I wouldn’t pass up. It’s a unique experience with sulfur gases steaming around you. On this tour, we ran down the side of the volcano on our own two feet. We took giant leaps into the fine gravel picking up speed to a point it was dangerous, but still fun.

Volcano Boarding in León – Video Ep. 15

Discover San Juan del Sur Beach Nicaragua

RTW Trip Budgeting for Central America

Photo of Sunset Over Los Maribios Volcano Chain

The Black Gravel of Volcano Cerro Negro

After Cerro Negro, we prepare for the most difficult part of the 2-day trek. A steep 1 hour ascent with your maximum weight. This was grueling. After the hour, the climbs become less strenuous and the anticipation of spotting El Hoyo, the “Hole”, grows.

Volcano El Hoyo

Volcano El Hoyo Campsite

Watch our video to experience the mystery of El Hoyo and the peace of finishing the hike with a swim in a Laguna Asososca.

2 Backpackers - Volcano El Hoyo Trek in León – Travel Video Ep. 16 2 Backpackers - Travel around the world sharing budget travel tips, travel photos and adventure travel videos.

Watch More Adventure Travel Videos

We get lost while hiking to the Laguna de Alegría in this travel video from 2 Backpackers, Jason and Aracely Castellani, while visiting Alegría, El Salvador.  In travel video episode #13, our patience is tested when things go wrong. At one point, we walked with rocks in our hands unsure of our surroundings. Enjoy the show!

El Salvador continued to surprise us. Not with the big cities, which we weren’t impressed by, but rather the wonderful towns and villages we encountered. Between the Food Festivals of Juayúa and the colorful flowers of Alegría, we had come to realize, El Salvador was best explored outside the big cities.

Alegría, El Salvador

Alegría has to be one of the cleanest towns in El Salvador. Waste baskets painted creatively line the plaza alongside endless flowers, hence the name, Alegría. Upon asking our hostel host what made this town so concerned with cleanliness, he explained that the community realized benefits from tourism. As we sit at one of the few restaurants in town surrounding the main plaza, local musicians serenade us for some tips. It’s a relaxing atmosphere with kids playing soccer around the gazebo and local buses dropping visitors off durring weekend flower sales. It’s relaxing until you become lost in the nearby forest of Tecapa.

Laguna de Alegría

While staying in Alegría, El Salvador it’s necessary to visit Laguna de Alegría, a green hot spring fed sulfur lake inside the crater of volcano Tecapa that exudes mysticism.  From Alegría’s town center you can easily walk 45 minutes in sandals along a cobblestone road or hire a guide to take you on a 2-hour hike up and over the crater’s ridge then down to the lakes edge.  Of course, Aracely and I opted for the hike.  Our hostel recommended a local kid to guide us with complete confidence.

We woke up the next morning and ate pupusas for breakfast, packed 2 liters of water and met our guide Tulio outside the hostel at 9:00am.  The hostel owner advised us that we could trek in sandals since the hike was brief and easy.  We didn’t wear boots, but we did choose something sturdier than sandals.  Aracely and I both strapped on our Teva hiking sandals instead and dressed in shorts and t-shirts.  We were told that at the foot of the lake was a tienda selling snacks and drinks, so it wasn’t necessary to pack any food.

7 Waterfalls Video Tour in El Salvador

Food Festival of Juayúa, El Salvador

Discover Alegría, El Salvador

Santa Ana Volcano, El Salvador

As we walked away from the hostel, Tulio, our guide, began educating us on the history of Volcano Tecapa.  Coffee farms were plenty and we sucked on a few of the red ripe beans for energy, similar to the ways of the coffee harvesters.  The hike began slowly on easily traversed trails through coffee farms and then prairie landscapes as we neared the top of the volcano.  One of the most beautiful sites along the trail was the constant bright color from flower bushes and trees.  Once along the crater’s ridge we had several views down on the town of Alegría.  We crossed a radio tower patrolled by several military men and then turned left down into the crater via a vague trail.  It was 10:30am and our journey was about to begin.

We seemed to be following a trail for the first 30 minutes down the lush crater walls.  After that we were literally skiing down steep dirt slopes.  It was peculiar considering we were told we could hike in sandals.  A few slips on our butts and hands and the leisurely stroll quickly turned into an extremely difficult hike with no trails.  Our guide led the way with his dull wailing machete.  I laughed a few times and Aracely smiled; we were thrilled by the idea that this was a more challenging hike than we initially imagined.

Lost in a Volcano Crater

An hour after we descended into the crater Tulio alerts us that we are off the trail we intended to take.  He explained that the farmers must have covered the trail with brush or the trail had naturally overgrown.  I guess it’s not traveled much during the low season.  No worries, we were with a local guide.  We moved on searching for the trail that would lead us to the crater lake.  All volcano craters aren’t created equal and this one was covered in thick forest, steep rock walls and was of significant size.  The crater walls were filled with v-shaped valleys, so in order to traverse around the crater in a circle you needed to hike large ‘W’ patterns along the crater walls to avoid the steep cliffs.  During our search we passed grazing horses and cows.  It’s hard to image how thick the forest was considering I just mentioned animals were grazing, but I assure you, I was as stunned as you are reading this.  We continued hiking and it soon became apparent to Aracely and I that Tulio was lost.  Our smiles disappeared, our stomachs growled of hunger and we began to question our guides’ next steps.

It was 12:30pm; we should have arrived at the lake at 11:00am.  We had finished 1 liter of water already, not expecting to hike long.  The trek had become so dangerous that for the first time I was scared not only for Aracely, but for myself.  I couldn’t handle the feeling of being scared and I started to become very frustrated.  Tulio climbed 10 meters up a tree to orient himself with the crater.  He was wearing a pair of jeans and worn through Vans and only carried 1 liter of water.  Looking for the power lines from the radio station that stood atop the crater, Tulio shouted to us that it was only 30 minutes to the power lines and then we can start over on the correct trail.  We faithfully followed his lead, traversing the crater’s walls to the power lines.

Falling & Slipping

I stepped on a log that collapsed like a booby trap and covered my boot in termite infested wood dust.  A black scorpion grazed my hand as I cleared some dirt off a rock for gripping.  Tulio said we were lucky the snakes weren’t out today, because they are extremely poisonous; I was pleased to know that the scorpions were not.  Our Teva hiking sandals were not meant for this hike.  We constantly had to remove them to shake out the dirt and rocks caught between our feet and the sandal’s bottom.  I haven’t figured out what these overly engineered sandals are designed for, besides walking around town.  Even in rivers they seem to trap every little pebble.  Long pants would have also been a great benefit, since thorns gave us cuts and scraps on our legs.  More important than all those luxuries is the need for food and water.  My energy was draining quickly.  We hadn’t eaten in over 5 hours and we stopped drinking our remaining water for fear of not getting out of the forest before the sun set at 5:30pm.

An hour after we began to look for power lines, Tulio, using his cellular phone, called the hostel for advice.  Aracely listened in on the conversation.  He was clearly lost and they couldn’t help him much considering he didn’t know where he was.  I feared Tulio was still trying to get to the lake.  At this point, I wanted out of the forest and didn’t care about the lake at all.  Tulio knew we were upset and he was too.  He kept quiet.  Most frustrating for us was the fact that Tulio did not know this mountain.  I asked Aracely to explain to Tulio that we wanted off the mountain as quickly as possible.  Unfortunately, he was still trying to get us down the crater, so we quickly switched directions and headed straight up.  After 15 minutes we ran into thick bush that we couldn’t get through.  We backtracked, then went up again in a different direction.  This time we scaled a rock wall that tested my rock climbing ability.  I made it, paused and told Aracely we are not going to do anything like that again.  It was too dangerous and getting hurt on this mountain would only make the situation worse.

No Way Out of Laguna de Alegría

We continuously ran into obstacles and couldn’t climb straight up out of the crater.  Tulio received a phone call from the hostel and they recommended he circle back around the inside of the crater, from where we began and search for a road the locals use connecting the towns of Alegría and Santiago de Maria.  That meant it would take another 2 hours possibly to go back in the same direction we came from.  We began to make the journey.  It was now 2:00pm and we were becoming mentally drained.  The hike back was just as difficult, because we couldn’t find the path we had cut initially.  I was carrying Aracely’s backpack at this point and we kept the two water bottles in the side pockets.  During a muddy ascent up a steep wall, one of the bottles fell out.  I decided to take off the backpack and attempt to recover it.  Once I reached the bottle, I realized I needed both hands to scale back up the muddy slope.  Tulio had climbed half way down to where I was so I threw him the bottle.  It was a bad choice.  I should have put the bottle in my shirt.  My throw was short and the bottle fell again, this time farther, to unknown bottom.  Tulio adamantly offered to retrieve it, but I insisted he not.  I know he felt bad about the situation, but it wasn’t worth putting our selves in danger again.  The bottle stayed.  As I climbed back up and grabbed the backpack again I realized it had an 8-inch slice through the main compartment.  The thorns must have cut right through it as it scraped the hedges we crawled under.

After hiking another hour we reached a road!  It was a great feeling of relief and a sure sign we weren’t spending the night on the volcano.  Confidently, we marched down the road to what I believed was going to eventually be the lake.  We came to a few crossroads and our guide hesitantly chose a direction and we went with it.  After only 30 minutes walking along the cobblestone winding road, our guide began to knock on the metals doors of some rural dwellings.  To help put it into perspective, these were extremely primitive huts where peasant families lived on the volcano surrounded by thick forest.  The doors granted access to their property and were sometimes far from the actual house.  There were no answers to our knocks.  We were still lost.

We walked for several kilometers up and down steep grades, passing locals carrying water and wood to their homes on cattle and horses.  I had reached total exhaustion and sat on the road for a rest.  It was clear to me that we needed to collect fruit for the night.  I asked Aracely to communicate to Tulio our need for food and water for the evening.  By his reaction, it appeared that Tulio still felt confident we were going to make it out before dusk.  It was 3:30pm and the sun would be setting in 2 hours.  Our guide stopped as we neared some drum playing in the distance.  Seizing the opportunity to rest, I sat on the road again.  This is not a road traveled by vehicles so there is no risk of being run over.  After speaking with some locals passing by Tulio informed us that we were close to a neighboring city of Alegría, named Santiago de Maria.  Aracely asked if there were buses in Santiago de Maria that we could take to Alegría.  The local responded yes.  This was it… a way out.  As the locals left, Aracely and I were already walking to the next town.  Tulio halted us and explained that the drums in the background came from the homes of bandits.  This was a gut wrenching feeling.  He gave us the choice of walking through the neighborhoods of bandits, risking losing our camcorder and SLR camera and our safety, or heading in the other direction towards what should be Alegría.  Aracely was willing to make the short hike to Santiago de Maria to ensure we escape the volcano before dusk, but I wasn’t comfortable risking our safety and equipment.  I would rather sleep on the volcano than knowingly risk her safety.  Tulio didn’t want to take us the route of the bandits either and was relieved we decided to return in the direction we came.

No Food or Water

As we walked uphill heading to one of the first crossroads we encountered while hiking on the road, Aracely and I continually fell behind Tulio, struggling to maintain enough energy.  After passing fruit trees earlier in the hike, I couldn’t believe there was none to be found when we needed it most.  We arrived at the crossroad and headed down a new route; this time through a locals property with their permission.  She explained that Alegría was about 3 kilometers away and a difficult walk.  A hint of hope began to emerge amongst us.  Tulio was able to find a local to provide him some water, but unfortunately for Aracely and I, we couldn’t risk drinking the local water for fear of getting ill.  It was 4:00pm and Tulio shouts to us that we have arrived.  Arrived at what, we thought.  The area seemed no different than the last 2 hours, with no town in sight.  More specifically, he knew the road, and knew we would make it off the volcano before dusk.  Relieved, we all dropped the large rocks we had been carrying for defense.  30 minutes later, we arrived at the entrance to the crater lake and the tienda for drinks and snacks.  We ordered two sugar drinks and three waters to share between the three of us.  My body changed immediately.  You gain a strong understanding of the importance of food and water during extreme activity.  After regaining strength and mental motivation we told Tulio we had no desire to visit the lake today, we just wanted to get home.

A Hike for Another Day

Along the road back to Alegría, we purchased three oranges from a local girl and savored the sweetness of comfort.  Comfort knowing our challenges were done for the day and no one was injured. We arrived home at 4:45pm, 45 minutes before dusk.  We would return the next day to experience the sulfur lake, known as Laguna de Alegría, minus the 7.5-hour hike.

2 Backpackers - Lost in Laguna de Alegria El Salvador – Travel Video Ep. 13 2 Backpackers - Travel around the world sharing budget travel tips, travel photos and adventure travel videos.

Watch More Adventure Travel Videos

Enjoy hiking in the El Salvador jungle, through an HD adventure travel video from 2 Backpackers, Jason and Aracely Castellani, while visiting Juayúa, El Salvador.  In travel video episode #11, we trek through muddy, wet slopes just outside of Juayúa to enjoy lunch, waterfalls and crazy cliff diving. Enjoy the show!

Travel El Salvador

When we decided to begin our journey in Central America, El Salvador was the country we decided to avoid. The decision was not based on any specific reason, we simply preferred a more direct route south and planned to travel from Guatemala to Honduras to Nicaragua and onwards. However, with Honduras’ political instability, which was causing some border issues, we decided to take a detour through El Salvador instead.

Juayúa, El Salvador

Small towns and villages in El Salvador surprised us with their cleanliness, friendly people and active community events. Juayúa was the highlight with its weekend food festival, colorful street buildings and amazing surrounding landscapes and towns. If you enjoy coffee plantations, Juayúa is a great base to visit nearby towns to tour and taste coffee beans.

Hostels in Juayúa

Our style of travel thus far has been extremely spontaneous; we do the research of where we are going the day before we get there. It has worked out well so far. As usual, we consulted our twitter followers and fellow travelers for their suggestions in El Salvador and they brought us to Hotel Anáhuac in Juayúa (don’t worry I still have some trouble pronouncing that myself). Once again, we’ve found a gem in an unexpected place.

Hotel Anáhuac in Juayua, El Salvador

Juayúa is located two and half hours from the west coastal Guatemalan border. It’s a small town in the Routa de las Flores (a compilation of picturesque towns) with much local charm and is most widely known for their weekend food fair. The hotel is perfect: it’s very clean, has a gorgeous open courtyard filled with tropical plants, and the walls of the room display varying local art. Anáhuac also provides walking and adventure tours to neighboring natural attractions, one of them was the 7 Waterfalls, which we eagerly signed up for.

Iglesia Juayúa, El Salvador / Juayua Church

7 Waterfalls Tour

Our guide, Mario, met us at Hotel Anáhuac at eight in the morning. He led us through the empty Spanish streets of town towards its outskirts where we would begin to find our way into the thick forest. Before the hike began we stopped at Mario’s house which was at the foot of our hike. Mario and his family live in a small structure built with metal roofing and wooden logs. His brother and five dogs accompanied us on our trek.

7 Waterfalls Tour in Juayua, El Salvador

Coffee Plantations

As we made our way up the path to 7 Waterfalls Mario explained the different plants and vegetation. During our hike we encountered large El Salvador coffee plantations where we learned about cultivating coffee and how elevation increases a coffee’s grade. Mario told us that most of El Salvador’s high quality coffee is exported elsewhere in the world. Only the lowest grade of coffee stays in the country.
Previous hikes have had at a minimum wooden steps or rock laid into steps to reduce difficulty and risks. On this hike not one single portion of the trail is built up and it’s not well maintained. There are large branches to climb over, thorn filled trees to duck under, rivers to cross, rocks to hop over, and waterfalls to repel down from. The reward was majestic views of nature in its purest form.

Waterfall Nature Pictures

Once we arrived at the top of the mountain there was yet another large wall of waterfalls that fed a pool of fresh water where we swam. This area was popular for the locals to picnic, however we never passed any along our hike. We assume they take a different trek. Unfortunately, there was quite a bit of trash around the swimming area. Mario explained the cultural challenge of changing this problematic behavior. Of course, since Mario benefits from tourism in El Salvador directly, he is able to see the benefit of a cleaner environment. We all enjoyed fresh sandwiches filled with tomatoes, onions, avocado, eggs and salt and pepper. They were probably some of the most refreshing simple subs we have ever had.

Chorros de Calera - 7 Waterfalls Tour in Juayua, El Salvador

Ultimate Adventure Tour

As we ate, the local families were jumping from rocky cliffs into the water. Jason eyed the possibility of jumping from the waterfall. Mario escorted him up to a rock that stood out slightly from the wall. He jumped and softly hit the sand in the bottom of the pool. It was only about 9-10ft deep and the area that was safe to jump in was considerably small. Next, Mario climbed another 2.5 meters up the wall and dove head first into the shallow pool. As he entered the water he curled his body immediately to avoid being paralyzed. It was very impressive.

Stick Insect up Close

Water Channel Tunnels

Along the hike Mario also explained to us that there were tunnels or caves we could explore. Once at the pools we realized they were man made tunnels bored for sending the water to a hydro station. At first I was up for it, but when we got to the opening of the tunnel and I watched Mario go in first, I decided to back out. It was very dark, the water came to his shoulders and there was hardly any head room. I knew Jason wanted to do it; I told him I would wait for them at the opening. After they returned and heard about their adventure, I was jealous.

Mario Taking Our Portrait at the Largest Waterfall in Juayua, El Salvador

Just as we began to pack up for our return, clouds rushed into the valley at our elevation and suddenly we were engulfed in clouds full of mist. The scene of the clouds squeezing into the valley seemed very Jurasic Park. It wasn’t a slow process, the clouds came in fast at five miles per hour. I still carry this scene in my mind. We could hear heavy rain hitting the leaves of all the trees in the valley, but we didn’t see or feel any on us. I can only assume it was raining below. We arrived back at Mario’s home where he changed again into jeans and a clean shirt to walk us back through town to our hostel. You won’t find any locals wearing shorts in the streets of El Salvador. The rain did catch up to us during our walk back through town, but it felt simply refreshing.

A Challenging Hike

Although we’ve already been on a few hikes during this trip, the hike to the 7 Waterfalls in Juayua was still unique due to its primitive trails, abundance of rivers and waterfalls and varying terrain. The trek was not difficult from an endurance perspective, but it was a hike that required a lot of focus and caution. It’s muddy, wet, slippery, itchy and wonderfully adventurous. Juayua is a must see in El Salvador, and the 7 Waterfalls hike is their hidden gem.

Weekend Festival in Juayua, El Salvador

How Can You Help?

When Mario isn’t conducting tours to the Seven Waterfalls he is looking for work doing odd jobs in construction, harvesting and anything else he can find. We kept him busy over the next few days, since we highly recommended the tour to every traveler that wandered into the hostel. We booked the tour through the hostel, but you can book the 7 waterfalls tour by contacting Mario’s family directly, providing his family greater income. If you plan to book directly, then please send an email well in advance (doesn’t have access to a computer daily) to douglas.martinez1203(at)gmail.com. I set up an email account for them and taught them how to access their mail. Mario and his brothers William and Douglas were the kindest of people and we encourage you to enjoy their tours and friendship. They speak Spanish only, so please email in Spanish as well.

2 Backpackers - 7 Waterfalls Tour El Salvador – Travel Video Ep. 11 2 Backpackers - Travel around the world sharing budget travel tips, travel photos and adventure travel videos.

Backpacking Classmates

We were looking for a challenging outdoor adventure, but we knew we didn’t exactly have the experience to do it safely on our own.  Once we decided on our destination, the Grand Canyon, we began researching guided hikes and camping.

The Grand Canyon

The Grand Canyon is a World Heritage Site which encompasses 1,218,375 acres and lies on the Colorado Plateau in northwestern Arizona.  Our goal was to experience the Canyon to the fullest; that can only be done by hiking to the very bottom.

The Grand Canyon National Park offers a variety of choices to experience the inside of the Canyon; guided tours, mule trips, river trips, hiking and camping.  If you are interested in backpacking and camping on your own, you must acquire a backcountry permit.  The permits are very challenging to obtain due to the volume of requests, but the organizations conducting the guided hikes all have access to those permits.

Grand Canyon Field Institute

Our research led us to the Grand Canyon Field Institute, a program of the Grand Canyon Association (GCA), which focuses on educating park visitors about the cultural and natural history of the Grand Canyon.  The classes specialize in various topics such as cultural education, photography, wilderness, women, family classes and much more.  The term class is used to emphasize education, but this is unlike any class you have taken before.  There is a class for everyone; from beginner backpackers to experienced outdoor enthusiasts.  The institute was easily accessible via phone and email, and was very courteous while assisting us to choose the class that was best suited for us.  We decided on Introductory Backpacking: Colorado River.  It was exactly what we were looking for; adventurous, educational, and challenging.

South Rim Trail Map

South Rim Lodging

After arriving at Phoenix Airport on a Wednesday evening, we rented the smallest, cheapest car available and drove 3.5 hours up to the Grand Canyon Park that same night.  Since we had arrived in the evening we weren’t able to see anything along the unlit highway; however we could easily feel the change in altitude and temperature during our ascent.  With complete darkness surrounding us the foot might have been a little heavy on the throttle, because we soon found flashing lights behind us.  The officer advised us to slow down so we are able spot the sleeping elk in the middle of the road.  That is important information you may want to consider when driving to the Grand Canyon.

Luckily we didn’t see any elk sleeping on the highway, but once we arrived at Maswik Lodge on the Canyon Rim, we did have to maneuver our way around them roaming on the local streets.  Maswik Lodge was reasonably priced (about $90USD-$120 per night) considering it is located inside the park and only a 5 minute walk to the South Rim.  It was clean and comfortable, but far from a luxury lodge or hotel.

Introductory Backpacking

The next morning we were scheduled to be at the Grand Canyon Field Institute at 8:00am for an all-day Introductory Backpacking class.  Our instructor and tour guide, Melanie Miles, was perfect for the job.  Not only does she have many years of wilderness experience, but she is very familiar with the ecological history of the Grand Canyon’s formation and shared many hidden treasures with us throughout the trails.

The class was made up of four diverse students.  Everyone was new to backpacking and we all socialized rather easily despite our age differences (two classmates were retirees.)  During our 1-day course we learned about the history and geological splendor of the Grand Canyon, how to pack minimally and strategically, appropriate clothing, adequate food, water rationing, and a few safety precautions.  The most informative was the actual packing list review.  As first timers, we brought too much stuff than we needed or could fit in our packs.  Not only was there too much, but it would have added unnecessary weight; a topic that is most important when backpacking.  The instructor spent time with each person reviewing what items to bring and what items are not practical for the trip.  Each student weighed their pack to make sure it was manageable for the duration of the entire trip.  The institute also provides equipment rental.  Aracely and I both rented hiking sticks and Aracely even rented a backpack that was more than suitable.  After downsizing our packing list several times our final pack weight including food was: Jason 42lbs, Aracely 36lbs.  It’s important to note that as a couple we were able to minimize our pack weight by distributing a single tent and camping stove between the two of us.  After the classroom instruction, the group was led to a beautiful scenic view, Schoscone Point, along the South Rim.  We all looked in awe and took pictures of what we were soon about to conquer.

Camping on the South Rim

That evening we chose less expensive accommodations by utilizing the park’s campgrounds.  At only $18USD per campsite, we saved compared to the lodge costs.  During sunset, we set up our tent in a reasonably sized site, near the public wash house.  This provided us a short walk to access restrooms and sinks, making the night’s tasks a bit easier.   The temperature on the Rim was about 50 degrees Fahrenheit during the day.  Somewhat chilly, but you must remember you are 7,000 feet above sea level.  In the evenings the temperature drops significantly.  We cooked dinner, washed up and laid our heads to rest, for we knew the challenge ahead.  That night, the temperature dropped to 20 degrees Fahrenheit.  Fortunately, we were encased in sleeping bags fit to withstand those temperatures.

South Rim Kaibab Trail

South Rim Kaibab Trail

Early Friday morning we regrouped with Melanie and the others and began our descent into the Canyon via the Kaibab Trail from the South Rim.  Our destination was Bright Angel Campground, which is located next to the Colorado River.  The 7.5 miles of switchbacks, unforgiving terrain and breathtaking views took 7 hours to complete.  Although the hike was physically challenging for both Aracely and I, it is still possible for many to accomplish.  Our group included a female in her 60s who carried her own backpack and was able to cope with the difficult terrain.  Our guide, Melanie, was very good at managing the different intensity levels of the team.  Rest stops were made as needed, most often along designated areas with public restrooms that were surprisingly clean and adequate.  One of the most amazing scenic rest stops is Ooh Aah Point, which is approximately 780 feet from the South Rim.  Here, you can take wonderful photos sitting on a ledge overlooking the entire Canyon.  As we continued to hike down, Melanie would explain the different vegetations we encountered and pointed out the different layers of rocks that make up the Grand Canyon’s walls.  The further we descended the Kaibab Trail the more the temperature increased.  Approximately every 1,000 feet in altitude the Grand Canyon weather temperature can change 3-6 degrees Fahrenheit.  It is much more efficient to wear layers of clothes that can be easily removed as you become warmer.

Aracely Descending the Kaibab Trail

Grand Canyon Weather

Carefully consider the time of year you plan your hike.  A hike during the summer can begin in 75 degree Fahrenheit weather and finish at 110 degrees once you arrive at the bottom.

Mules

Throughout the trail you will encounter packs of mules making their way to or from the bottom of the Grand Canyon.  The mules carry passengers, luggage or even supplies from Phantom Ranch (located at the bottom of the Canyon.)  Hikers have the option of a mule carrying their luggage, which will then be waiting for them when they reach Phantom Ranch.  These individuals only need to carry enough water and food for the hike down.  It was also shocking to see how these mules were able to safely carry passengers while remaining sure footed along the trail.  The mule packs create large crevices along the trails that require constant maintenance.  Melanie informed us that at one point the park had considered abolishing the mules from the trails, but it was decided that the mules played a significant role in the history of the Grand Canyon.  Another fascinating encounter was with the adventure runners that run the trails from South Rim to North Rim across the entire Canyon in a single day.

Two Backpackers in the Grand Canyon

Bright Angel Campground

When we arrived at Bright Angel Campground we were desperate to remove our bags and rest.  The Grand Canyon weather was now a comfortable 85 degrees Fahrenheit.  A thorough cleaning in the sink was well deserved to remove the coat of sand on our skin.  Everyone set up their tents within a group campsite that provided benches and storage for our food.  The storage containers were made of metal to prevent the mule deer from intruding.

Phantom Ranch

Later that evening we visited the famous Phantom Ranch; the only lodging facility below the Canyon Rim.  This place has a very cool backpacker atmosphere; everyone is very friendly and social.  The grounds include dormitories and rustic cabins, which can be reserved while spending several days on the Canyon floor.  Much of the lodging includes showers and restrooms.  Also popular is the Phantom Ranch Canteen where meals, beverages, and snacks are available.  With reservations, you can participate in family style dining in a log cabin setting.  And yes, the beverages do include beer.  Just remember the more you drink, the more weight the mules have to carry out.  The Canyon floor can only be accessed by foot, mule or the river.  Everything you eat and dispose of is transported out by way of mule.  After some socializing, we retreated to our tents for a good night’s rest, one that would be considerably warmer than the previous night.

Lunch Above the Colorado River

Indian Granary & Havasu Falls

The following morning we had an exploratory hike to a great lookout point above the river where we had lunch. We also went exploring to a 1,000 year old Native Indian granary.  Melanie explained the different food storing techniques the Native Indians used.  The group learned so much from Melanie during our hikes which combined education and adventure.  Another option available to the group was a trek to Havasu Falls.  These waterfalls are described as having a bluish green tint to the water and are located above the campgrounds.

Bright Angel Trail

South Rim Bright Angel Trail

After two nights of camping at Bright Angel, we began the hike ascending from the Canyon floor.  This time we would climb out via the Bright Angel Trail.

Indian Gardens Campground

Four and half miles later we arrived at Indian Gardens Campground for one last night out in the wilderness.

A river runs through the campground which provided great scenery during the hike to the campsite.  Indian Gardens also serves as a resting stop for the mule herds between Phantom Ranch and the South Rim.

Sunset at Plateau Point

Plateau Point

That evening, we hiked another 1.5 miles to witness the panoramic views at Plateau Point.  During our walk we encountered mule deer willing to pose for photos.  The mule deer just couldn’t compare with the most brilliant sunset against the red rock of the Canyon.  We stood in awe as the rock glowed with orange and red tints.

The Climb Out

On the last morning at 7:00am, we began our final hike back to the South Rim.  The trail from Indian Gardens consists of endless switchbacks with steep stair-like rocks. It was the most strenuous leg of our hike.  Determined to beat the class record, we left our group behind and pushed ourselves to climb 4.5 miles in under 2.5 hours.  We felt exhausted, but extremely accomplished.  It is advisable to hike at a pace that is manageable based on your physical condition.  For Aracely and I, it was great a challenge, and an unforgettable experience.

Aracely Next to Giant Cactus

After returning our equipment we began our drive back to Phoenix.  Daylight provided us the opportunity to see the beauty of the landscape we missed on our initial drive to the Grand Canyon.  Taking a photo next to a giant cactus was just another highlight of the trip and it was a perfect ending to our outdoor adventure.

Other great hikes you might enjoy from the Americas:

• Hiking Ciudad Perdida (the Lost City) in Colombia
• Hiking to Dinosaur Fossil Footprints in Bolivia

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Colombia Travel - Main Terraces of Ciudad Perdida

Kristin of Coffee Calculations & Colombia shares her exciting hike to Colombia’s Lost City, Ciudad Perdida.

Within one month of my decision to move to Cali, Colombia, I knew I wanted to hike to Ciudad Perdida.  I found a friend who wanted to do the 5 night, 6 day jungle trek with me, we planned a trip for January 2010, and I started looking for flights to the nearby city of Santa Marta.

Colombia Travel

After she arrived to Cali, we prepared to leave for Santa Marta.  We packed our backpacks full of just the essentials.  Then we took a lap around my apartment.  Suddenly, I didn’t feel so confident in our survival skills for 6 days – honestly I questioned our ability to make it through day one with these backpacks on our shoulders.

However, we did make it, and emerged with a stunningly unique and memorable experience that I will never forget.  Yes, 6 days is a big commitment for the consistently on-the-move traveler, but this is one experience you cannot afford to miss.

Ciudad Perdida (The Lost City)

A pre-Colombian settlement of the Tayrona people, Ciudad Perdida is located at the start of the Buritaca River in the Sierra Nevada Mountains surrounding the city of Santa Marta, Colombia.  Discovered in the 1970s, the site itself features intricate staircases, meticulously built terraces, a complex system of pathways, and gorgeous views of the surrounding landscapes.  The only way to see Ciudad Perdida is to hike there (or find yourself a private helicopter, I guess…), so research the various tour companies to find the one that best suits your needs.  We decided on TurCol, short for Turismo Colombiano, based on a recommendation from friends, and paid $500,000 Colombian Pesos ($275 USD) per person for the trip.

• Why Travel to Colombia?
• Colombia Travel – Beaches of Tayrona National Park
• Colombia Travel – Discover Cartagena
• Colombia Travel – Mud Bath in Volcano Totumo
• Colombia Travel – Discover Salento

Colombia Travel - 1 of 8 River Crossings During Trek

Put On Your Hiking Shoes

The trek takes 6 days to complete.  Although you can complete it in 5 days, I recommend the 6-day pace so you can take time to enjoy the journey.  Each day you will hike between 4 to 6 hours, with frequent enough breaks for water, snacks and fresh fruit.  While the trek is filled with hills, river crossings, and rocky paths, the hike is completely manageable for the average, generally fit person.  Prior to my trip I did not do anything extra to prepare in terms of physical readiness, and I felt fine the whole time.  There will be hills and hard times, but they always end with a gorgeous view, campsite, or a delicious snack!

Colombia Travel - A Typical Campsite During our Trek

And You Thought Hammocks Were Comfortable

Each of the 3 pre-established (with rough “kitchens” and bathrooms/running water) campsites is equipped with either bunk beds or hammocks for your sleeping enjoyment.  Initially, I thought this would be an easy, efficient and fun way to enjoy some nature along the way.  However, by night three of sleeping like a banana in a hammock and waking up quite chilly, since apparently it’s cold in the mountains at night (whoops!), I felt a bit differently.  Overall, the sleeping accommodations were adequate for being in the jungle, but I haven’t looked at a hammock the same way since.  My friend and I had ditched our sleeping bags at the last minute, and while I didn’t regret the extra space and my lighter backpack, this choice definitely affected our sleeping at night.  Depending on your own preferences, you may want to consider a sleeping bag, although most tour companies do provide blankets at night, so in general I would not recommend bringing one as it is not worth the added weight to your backpack.

Colombia Travel - Moss Covered Staircase in Depths of Ciudad Perdida

Don’t Leave Home Without Your…

Sturdy walking shoes – preferably ones that you can wear right into the water during river crossings!  Flashlight/head lamp. Dry/warm clothes for the nights – preferably kept in plastic bags to keep them dry.  Swimsuit (lots of natural pools to swim in along the way!).  Bug spray – with lots of DEET.  Sunscreen.  Good paperback book (lots of free time in the afternoons/evenings).  Lightweight snacks (guides provide fresh fruit, but you will want your own things too).  Water bottle or Camelbak.Yellow fever shot.  Quick-dry clothes – in the dense, humid jungle if it gets wet once, it’s staying wet…for 6 days.  Solid sense of humor.

Colombia Hiking Buddies

Nothing like a physically, mentally, and emotionally challenging experience to reveal people’s true sides and on this trip, we got to know one another quickly.  By the last night we were sitting around the campsite exchanging a few beers, email addresses, future travel plans, and promises to remember this incredible shared experience.  From the two university women from England and the adorably endearing British police officers to the French-Australian couple and happy-go-lucky man from Baranquilla, Colombia, our travel group included people from all over the world.  For 6 days we shared our stories, our accomplishments, our struggles, and our water breaks.  Along the way I kept reminding myself to enjoy the journey in case the end really wasn’t that cool (Spoiler Alert: It is), but being with this group of people made it easy to enjoy the whole experience.

Colombia Travel - My Arrival to Ciudad Perdida (The Lost City)

Best Hike in Colombia

In the end, I have no better advice than just go for it.  I had never been hiking for longer than 6 consecutive hours prior to my trek to Ciudad Perdida, and I came out happily alive and in shock of what I was able to accomplish.  Schedule a trip, take your backpack out of the closet, and get going. The Lost City awaits.

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Cerro Negro is a volcano in the Cordillera de los Maribios mountain range in Nicaragua, about 10 km from the village of Malpaisillo. It is a very new volcano, the youngest in Central America, having first appeared in April 1850. It consists of a gravelly basaltic cinder cone, which contrasts greatly with the surrounding verdant hillsides, and gives rise to its name, which means Black Hill.

Cerro Negro has erupted frequently since its first eruption. One unusual aspect of several eruptions has been the emission of ash from the top of the cone, while lava erupts from fractures at the base. – Wikipedia

Trekking to Volcano Cerro Negro in Nicaragua

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In commemoration of the 4th of July, today’s Photo of the Day is of an American natural wonder, The Grand Canyon.  Happy 4th of July to all our friends and family back home.

View Of Grand Canyon

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We joined a 3-day trek with Condortrekkers, a non-profit tour company based out of Sucre, Bolivia.  Our tour included walking on an Inca Trail, visiting the crater town of Maragua and seeing ancient fossilized dinosaur footprints.

On day one we took a microbus from Sucre to a nearby small town where our group of 7 hopped into a “camion,” the only local transportation available to the town of Chataquila where we began our hike.

Packing in the Camion, Our Local Transportation

Our first leg of the hike involved walking down an ancient Inca Trail.  This was a great workout for the calf muscles as each step required balancing on loose rocks of varying sizes while lugging the weight of our backpacks.  We hiked a total of 7 hours on the first day which included some tough climbing in the dark.

Walking The Inca Trail in Bolivia

The first half of our second day included visiting the “Devil’s Throat” waterfall and walking through the town of Maragua located in the crater of the same name.  It was a total of 5 hours from our campsite to Ninu Mayu, where we explored the ancient dinosaur footprints.

Dinosaur Footprints

The hike to the dinosaur site was exhausting.  We enjoyed a great fresh lunch and quick siesta before continuing for another 3 hours to our second campsite.

Siesta at the Dinosaur Footprints

We arrived just before dark and set up our tents under millions of stars and a full moon.  Our group enjoyed a delicious vegetarian dinner as we got to know each other and rested from the strenuous hike.

Enjoying Dinner, Always Delicious Vegetarian Dinners

The final day involved only a 3-hour hike to what seemed like the most remote bus stop in the world.  It’s probably not even appropriate to call it a bus stop, considering we are riding in camiones.  We road in the camion with the locals for 3.5 hours back to Sucre.  Along the way, we saw many farmers working their land and shepherds herding.

Farmers Working the Fields

Condortrekkers also offers 3-day, 2-day and 1-day treks.   For more information on what they offer, check out their website http://www.condortrekkers.org or their fan page by clicking here.

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The last day of our trek we hiked from Campamento Torres up to the Torres Lookout Point in the darkness to watch the sun come up and illuminate the towers. We were rewarded with the most beautiful sunrise we have every seen. It even beat any sunset we have ever seen. The colors were amazing it was surreal. It was the perfect ending to our nine day adventure at Torres del Paine National Park.

Sunsrise at Torres del Paine Lookout Point

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We were very lucky to have had great weather for seven out of the nine days during our trek. This photo was taken on our trail to Campamento Chileno. The views were amazing every day which made the strenuous hiking slightly more bearable.

Jason and other hikers on the trail to Campamento Chileno

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At the top of the Valle del Frances hike there is a hidden path that leads further up the mountain. The trek is very icy and bit dangerous at times. There is a large platform rock at the top of the hike that rewards the adventurous folks who dare to make the climb with an amazing 360 view of breath taking scenery.

View of Cordillera Paine at Torres del Paine National Park, Patagonia Chile

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Glacier Grey begins in the Patagonian Andes Mountains to the west and terminates in three distinct lobes into Grey Lake.  It measures 270KM and it’s located in the south end of the Southern Patagonia Ice Field.

The ice field of the lake can be seen right after full circuit trekkers overcome the Jonh Gardner Pass when traveling from east to west. Those who only trek the W can see Glacier Grey from Refugio Grey Camp Site. However, the best view is from a look out point located at Los Guardas Campsite where this picture was taken.

Glacier Grey Ice Field at Torres del Paine National Park Patagonia, Chile

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Glacier Los Perros On Full Circuit Trek At Torres Del Paine National Park

This photo is of Glacier Los Perros near Los Perros Camp Site. It was taken during very high winds where we had to sit on our bellies to not be blow into the freezing lake.

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This photo was taken on top of a large rock hill next to Los Perros Camp Site will trekking the Full Circuit in Torres del Paine National Park in the Patagonia region of Chile. It was cold and windy up there but the views were worth every minute of it.

Sun Setting On Patagonia Landscape in Torres Del Paine National Park

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One of our favorite things in Ecuador was hiking the Quilotoa Loop from Insilivi located in the Central Andes Mountains to Quilotoa Crater Lake. During our trek we encountered local farmers working their land, beautiful scenery and this Hairy Donkey standing at the side of mountain.

Hairy Donkey In Central Andes Ecuadaor

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There are a couple of theories that attempt to explain the mysterious hole on the side of Volcano El Hoyo. Some say it’s a sink hole, while most believe it’s a meteor, but not enough research has been done to know for certain how this huge hole got there. Our campsite had an amazing view of not only El Hoyo, but multiple surrounding volcanoes. We hired Quetzaltrekkers, for our 2-day trek. Quetzaltrekkers is a great organization that organizes trips and gives back to the local community.

Volcano El Hoyo, Leon, Nicaragua

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There is more to Las Vegas than its glamorous casinos and non-stop night life. Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area is located 15 minutes from the Las Vegas strip. Here you can bike, climb and hike through unlimited trails or enjoy a 13 mile one-way scenic drive which offers views of incredible natural beauty. The park includes hills, canyons, waterfalls, springs, petroglyphs and pictographs.

Red Rock Canyon National Park, Las Vegas, NV

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Located in the heart of the Colombian coffee region and tucked between Pereira and Armenia rests Salento, a small and pleasant town which offers visitors a warm relaxing setting.

Colombia Travel - Streets of Salento

Colombia Travel

If you’re making your way south to Cali from Medellin or Bogota, or traveling north on the reverse route, Salento is an ideal place to take a break from the bustling cities of Colombia.  Relax in town, or venture out to Valle de Cocora for some outdoor trekking adventure where you will see the tallest palm trees in the world.

Colombia Travel - Hiking Valle de Cocora near Salento

• Why Travel to Colombia?
• Colombia Travel – Beaches of Tayrona National Park
• Colombia Travel – Discover Cartagena
• Colombia Travel – Mud Bath in Volcano Totumo
• Colombia Travel – Hiking Ciudad Perdida (Lost City)
• Sailing to Colombia or Panama

Colombia Travel - Wax Palms of Valle de Cocora near Salento

Streets of Salento, Colombia

Salento’s most popular street is lined with artisan shops, fondas (Colombian cantinas), and local restaurants serving typical Colombian dishes.

Colombia Travel - Aracely in the Streets of Salento

By 9:00pm, most shops close and restaurants are only serving quick dishes of chorizo and empanadas.  You will only find fondas and bars opened later in the evening.

Colombia Travel - Bars in Salento

Cocora Valley (Valle de Cocora)

Hang off the side of an original Jeep Willy during an exciting 30 minute ride to Valle de Cocora, a valley located in the central Andean mountains.

Colombia Travel - Jeep Willy in the Valle de Cocora

Tallest Palm Trees in the World

Valle de Cocora is home of the wax palm (Ceroxylon quindiuense), a Colombian national symbol and the tallest palm tree in the world.

Colombia Travel - Tallest Palm Trees in the World (Wax Palms)

Since the implementation of law 61 in 1985 the palm has been a legally protected species, but still faces many threats of extinction. The wax palm has an extremely slow growth and can live up to a hundred years.

Colombia Travel - Valle de Cocora near Salento

Hiking near Salento, Colombia

From the drop off point there are various hiking routes that take its visitors through rolling hills of green landscape and winding shallow rivers.

Colombia Travel - Hiking Trails in the Valle de Cocora near Salento

The most popular route is to Acaime, a rest point where you can enjoy a traditional snack from the area called Aguapanela or cane juice and cheese for $3,000 pesos or $1.50 USD, all while admiring the beautiful humming birds flying around you.

Colombia Travel - Hummingbird

From Acaime, most visitors will hike the La Montana route back to the park’s entrance. La Montana provides some of the most beautiful views of the of the valley and its majestic palms.

Colombia Travel - Taking a break in Acaime, Valle de Cocora

Travel Tips for Budget Travelers

When you arrive at the parks entrance you will have several options to tour the area.  Avoid horseback, and guided tours and instead take a photo of the large wooden map and use it for reference while hiking on your own.  The trails are well marked and you shouldn’t have any problems finding your way.

Colombia Travel - Hiking Valle de Cocora near Salento

View more travel photos of Salento, Colombia.

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Laguna de Alegría

While staying in Alegría, El Salvador it’s necessary to visit Laguna de Alegría, a green hot spring fed sulfur lake inside the crater of volcano Tecapa that exudes mysticism.  From Alegría’s town center you can easily walk 45 minutes in sandals along a cobblestone road or hire a guide to take you on a 2-hour hike up and over the crater’s ridge then down to the lakes edge.  Of course, Aracely and I opted for the hike.  Our hostel recommended a local 21 year old to guide us with complete confidence.

We woke up the next morning and ate pupusas for breakfast, packed 2 liters of water and met our guide Tulio outside the hostel at 9:00am.  The hostel owner advised us that we could trek in sandals since the hike was brief and easy.  We didn’t wear boots, but we did choose something sturdier than sandals.  Aracely and I both strapped on our Teva hiking sandals instead and dressed in shorts and t-shirts.  We were told that at the foot of the lake was a tienda selling snacks and drinks, so it wasn’t necessary to pack any food.

As we walked away from the hostel, Tulio, our guide, began educating us on the history of Volcano Tecapa.  Coffee farms were plenty and we sucked on a few of the red ripe beans for energy, similar to the ways of the coffee harvesters.  The hike began slowly on easily traversed trails through coffee farms and then prairie landscapes as we neared the top of the volcano.  One of the most beautiful sites along the trail was the constant bright color from flower bushes and trees.  Once along the crater’s ridge we had several views down on the town of Alegría.  We crossed a radio tower patrolled by several military men and then turned left down into the crater via a vague trail.  It was 10:30am and our journey was about to begin.

Flowers on Volcano Tecapa

We seemed to be following a trail for the first 30 minutes down the lush crater walls.  After that we were literally skiing down steep dirt slopes.  It was peculiar considering we were told we could hike in sandals.  A few slips on our butts and hands and the leisurely stroll quickly turned into an extremely difficult hike with no trails.  Our guide led the way with his dull wailing machete.  I laughed a few times and Aracely smiled; we were thrilled by the idea that this was a more challenging hike than we initially imagined.

An hour after we descended into the crater Tulio alerts us that we are off the trail we intended to take.  He explained that the farmers must have covered the trail with brush or the trail had naturally overgrown.  I guess it’s not traveled much during the low season.  No worries, we were with a local guide.  We moved on searching for the trail that would lead us to the crater lake.  All volcano craters aren’t created equal and this one was covered in thick forest, steep rock walls and was of significant size.  The crater walls were filled with v-shaped valleys, so in order to traverse around the crater in a circle you needed to hike large ‘W’ patterns along the crater walls to avoid the steep cliffs.  During our search we passed grazing horses and cows.  It’s hard to image how thick the forest was considering I just mentioned animals were grazing, but I assure you, I was as stunned as you are reading this.  We continued hiking and it soon became apparent to Aracely and I that Tulio was lost.  Our smiles disappeared, our stomachs growled of hunger and we began to question our guides’ next steps.

It was 12:30pm; we should have arrived at the lake at 11:00am.  We had finished 1 liter of water already, not expecting to hike long.  The trek had become so dangerous that for the first time I was scared not only for Aracely, but for myself.  I couldn’t handle the feeling of being scared and I started to become very frustrated.  Tulio climbed 10 meters up a tree to orient himself with the crater.  He was wearing a pair of jeans and worn through Vans and only carried 1 liter of water.  Looking for the power lines from the radio station that stood atop the crater, Tulio shouted to us that it was only 30 minutes to the power lines and then we can start over on the correct trail.  We faithfully followed his lead, traversing the crater’s walls to the power lines.

I stepped on a log that collapsed like a booby trap and covered my boot in termite infested wood dust.  A black scorpion grazed my hand as I cleared some dirt off a rock for gripping.  Tulio said we were lucky the snakes weren’t out today, because they are extremely poisonous; I was pleased to know that the scorpions were not.  Our Teva hiking sandals were not meant for this hike.  We constantly had to remove them to shake out the dirt and rocks caught between our feet and the sandal’s bottom.  I haven’t figured out what these overly engineered sandals are designed for, besides walking around town.  Even in rivers they seem to trap every little pebble.  Long pants would have also been a great benefit, since thorns gave us cuts and scraps on our legs.  More important than all those luxuries is the need for food and water.  My energy was draining quickly.  We hadn’t eaten in over 5 hours and we stopped drinking our remaining water for fear of not getting out of the forest before the sun set at 5:30pm.

An hour after we began to look for power lines, Tulio, using his cellular phone, called the hostel for advice.  Aracely listened in on the conversation.  He was clearly lost and they couldn’t help him much considering he didn’t know where he was.  I feared Tulio was still trying to get to the lake.  At this point, I wanted out of the forest and didn’t care about the lake at all.  Tulio knew we were upset and he was too.  He kept quiet.  Most frustrating for us was the fact that Tulio did not know this mountain.  I asked Aracely to explain to Tulio that we wanted off the mountain as quickly as possible.  Unfortunately, he was still trying to get us down the crater, so we quickly switched directions and headed straight up.  After 15 minutes we ran into thick bush that we couldn’t get through.  We backtracked, then went up again in a different direction.  This time we scaled a rock wall that tested my rock climbing ability.  I made it, paused and told Aracely we are not going to do anything like that again.  It was too dangerous and getting hurt on this mountain would only make the situation worse.

We continuously ran into obstacles and couldn’t climb straight up out of the crater.  Tulio received a phone call from the hostel and they recommended he circle back around the inside of the crater, from where we began and search for a road the locals use connecting the towns of Alegría and Santiago de Maria.  That meant it would take another 2 hours possibly to go back in the same direction we came from.  We began to make the journey.  It was now 2:00pm and we were becoming mentally drained.  The hike back was just as difficult, because we couldn’t find the path we had cut initially.  I was carrying Aracely’s backpack at this point and we kept the two water bottles in the side pockets.  During a muddy ascent up a steep wall, one of the bottles fell out.  I decided to take off the backpack and attempt to recover it.  Once I reached the bottle, I realized I needed both hands to scale back up the muddy slope.  Tulio had climbed half way down to where I was so I threw him the bottle.  It was a bad choice.  I should have put the bottle in my shirt.  My throw was short and the bottle fell again, this time farther, to unknown bottom.  Tulio adamantly offered to retrieve it, but I insisted he not.  I know he felt bad about the situation, but it wasn’t worth putting our selves in danger again.  The bottle stayed.  As I climbed back up and grabbed the backpack again I realized it had an 8-inch slice through the main compartment.  The thorns must have cut right through it as it scraped the hedges we crawled under.

Merlin Edith (a local child) on Volcano Tecapa

After hiking another hour we reached a road!  It was a great feeling of relief and a sure sign we weren’t spending the night on the volcano.  Confidently, we marched down the road to what I believed was going to eventually be the lake.  We came to a few crossroads and our guide hesitantly chose a direction and we went with it.  After only 30 minutes walking along the cobblestone winding road, our guide began to knock on the metals doors of some rural dwellings.  To help put it into perspective, these were extremely primitive huts where peasant families lived on the volcano surrounded by thick forest.  The doors granted access to their property and were sometimes far from the actual house.  There were no answers to our knocks.  We were still lost.

We walked for several kilometers up and down steep grades, passing locals carrying water and wood to their homes on cattle and horses.  I had reached total exhaustion and sat on the road for a rest.  It was clear to me that we needed to collect fruit for the night.  I asked Aracely to communicate to Tulio our need for food and water for the evening.  By his reaction, it appeared that Tulio still felt confident we were going to make it out before dusk.  It was 3:30pm and the sun would be setting in 2 hours.  Our guide stopped as we neared some drum playing in the distance.  Seizing the opportunity to rest, I sat on the road again.  This is not a road traveled by vehicles so there is no risk of being run over.  After speaking with some locals passing by Tulio informed us that we were close to a neighboring city of Alegría, named Santiago de Maria.  Aracely asked if there were buses in Santiago de Maria that we could take to Alegría.  The local responded yes.  This was it… a way out.  As the locals left, Aracely and I were already walking to the next town.  Tulio halted us and explained that the drums in the background came from the homes of bandits.  This was a gut wrenching feeling.  He gave us the choice of walking through the neighborhoods of bandits, risking losing our camcorder and SLR camera and our safety, or heading in the other direction towards what should be Alegría.  Aracely was willing to make the short hike to Santiago de Maria to ensure we escape the volcano before dusk, but I wasn’t comfortable risking our safety and equipment.  I would rather sleep on the volcano than knowingly risk her safety.  Tulio didn’t want to take us the route of the bandits either and was relieved we decided to return in the direction we came.

As we walked uphill heading to one of the first crossroads we encountered while hiking on the road, Aracely and I continually fell behind Tulio, struggling to maintain enough energy.  After passing fruit trees earlier in the hike, I couldn’t believe there was none to be found when we needed it most.  We arrived at the crossroad and headed down a new route; this time through a locals property with their permission.  She explained that Alegría was about 3 kilometers away and a difficult walk.  A hint of hope began to emerge amongst us.  Tulio was able to find a local to provide him some water, but unfortunately for Aracely and I, we couldn’t risk drinking the local water for fear of getting ill.  It was 4:00pm and Tulio shouts to us that we have arrived.  Arrived at what, we thought.  The area seemed no different than the last 2 hours, with no town in sight.  More specifically, he knew the road, and knew we would make it off the volcano before dusk.  Relieved, we all dropped the large rocks we had been carrying for defense.  30 minutes later, we arrived at the entrance to the crater lake and the tienda for drinks and snacks.  We ordered two sugar drinks and three waters to share between the three of us.  My body changed immediately.  You gain a strong understanding of the importance of food and water during extreme activity.  After regaining strength and mental motivation we told Tulio we had no desire to visit the lake today, we just wanted to get home.

Laguna de Alegría in Volcano Tecapa

Along the road back to Alegría, we purchased three oranges from a local girl and savored the sweetness of comfort.  Comfort knowing our challenges were done for the day and no one was injured. We arrived home at 4:45pm, 45 minutes before dusk.  We would return the next day to experience the sulfur lake, known as Laguna de Alegría, minus the 7.5-hour hike.

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